Today is our last day in Amalfi coast and the weather gods are telling us it’s time to leave …,

Ten days ago we were greeted with this

Today the tide had turned

Day one our beautiful coastline

No lounging on the beach today!

It’s been a great ride in the south of Italy and fulfilled all our expectations!

Golden sunsets!

Experiencing the history

Reaching new heights and breathtaking views

Rubbing shoulders with the locals!

Hunting out the best coffee places!

Artwork

Basilica’s

And so much more! These Amalfians are a friendly, helpful community. Crazy drivers, very fit and very loud! To live in a place for 10 days where no one speaks much English, our communication senses have heightened and our sign language works well!

We are sure to leave here with a much higher level of fitness and some wonderful memories of our adventures!

The wanderers legs (or more specifically calf muscles) are still feeling the pain. (From the hike)

The weekend storms are rolling in.

Our usually calm beach is a bit roughed up!

We took the long way up to town, to avoid the steps, although The steep cobbled road not too much easier!

The last of the summer bloom is in the stores, as it definitely feels like winter is on its way to this part of the world.

We decided to take the train to Cava dei Tirreni, which is one stop from our station (and the home to our Air BNB host). Getting to the station, however, meant three long flights of steps! Testing our endurance.

This town, in the hills, is a shopping Mecca

All the shops under long archways and everything you can imagine. It’s probably a good thing that my carryon bag is at its limit.

The Church square, every town has them, this one has mountains as it’s backdrop!

HOWEVER, Todays story is really about some of the transport options, on the coast, other than feet! Get ready for the ride….

Our very quiet electric train!

And motorbikes everywhere (most popular mode of transport and seem to be number one in the pecking order – everyone gives way to them!)

Easy to park!

Old ones…

Green ones….

Camouflaged ones….

Big and small ones..

And now we have the service vehicles

Ambulance – stationed at Vietri Sul Mare – ready for a quick getaway to the Amalfi cliff roads. (These are very busy vehicles)

The Carabinieri (police) – best not to ride in this one.

The local curtainsider delivery trucks, a little smaller than we see at home but no less threatening – they stop for no one!

And last but not least the buses and their very brave drivers who navigate the steep, narrow winding roads on the Amalfi coast!

Of course there are cars, in all shapes sizes and models!

Smart cars – a perfect vehicle for tight parking spaces.

The arrogant Audi drivers who park anywhere!

This fine specimen of a soft top VW

Vintage cars (you may have seen this one spied earlier on our travels)

Not to be forgotten the two wheeled pedal powered mode…

Designed for display only…

White walked tyres and a basket of flowers on this vintage model…

Mountain bikes (possibly the most suited to this terrain)….

And this old step through has seen better days.

And now some unique examples of motoring..

The lovely old camper van option – this one permanently parked at the railway station (freedom camping)

And the ‘piece de resistance’….

A three wheeled motorbike truck! It took me all day to catch one of these very popular vehicles. They zip all through the streets, carrying people, produce, children in the back, building supplies and really just about anything. This is definitely a must have if you live on the Amalfi Coast!

After yesterday’s hiking extravaganza, Jill took herself off to visit another village in the hills. Sue and Russ decided more exploration around our town (Vietri Sul Mare) would be enough to stretch the legs!

Up the hill again looking back at the agricultural plot, growing fruit and vegetables.

This orange tree up close, laden with fruit which will ripen over the next few months.

In search of a castle, we can see from the beach, we took a path less travelled (by tourists) into the local housing areas.

A large mosaic in the middle of a paved plaza, the ceramic designs are all through the town.

The local primary school – playgrounds limited!

We followed our noses out towards the edge of the cliffs and a lovely old lady gave us instructions (totally in Italian, but pointing worked) to a couple of things she thought we should see!

A clifttop plaza lookout, with views of the large villas perched high above the bay.

Another small plaza with a full model village (all made in ceramics)which included the colleseum, Roman forum, and Bethlehem! Amazing detail!

A little close up of part of the model where you can see the figurines. These are called ‘Presepi’, originally only made as nativity scenes, but now include other scenes of Italian life.

We found my castle on the Cliff – behind locked gates. From what we could gather it is a religious sanctuary, or the home of the head catholic hierarchy in the town.

Making our way back towards the town centre and our favourite coffee stop, we noticed an old man, in what looked like a small garage, making figurines out of clay! We started chatting, us in English, him in Italian and with lots of pointing we both understood each other somewhat!

He then took us through a locked door into another back garage, where he showed us the process of ceramic making. In this shed – he had the raw clay, hand made models (lots of donkeys and goats), his kiln for firing, his glazing urn, his paints and an array of his artwork!

He allowed me to take a picture of him, in his workshop, and I bought a small donkey and goat (we know these are handmade and not mass produced as the ones we see in the town appear to be) He also gave me a fish! This started a whole new ‘conversation’ on our mutual love of fishing!

Onwards and upwards we explored

Through tunnels connecting streets or not (sometimes a dead end and we had to backtrack)

And here we are at the heart of the town – church of St John the Baptiste.

Couldn’t resist another photo of the inside, with beautiful art and bright natural light.

Another of Italian peculiarities, the water fountains and in our town, of course ceramic!

Coffee break and a little more exploring to be had.

Italian policeman directing traffic (whilst talking on his mobile phone) at a five road intersection.

The mermaid in the main town plaza – guarding the path to the sea.

This very cute shop assistant, guarding the door to a ceramic shop. You wouldn’t think to leave without paying!

And finally…..

Russ beside the artwork outside the tourist information centre! Everything looking very green (including Russ as he only brought one sweater with him).

With only half an hour before midday shop closing time, we thought we better head to the supermarket store and grab the few things we needed!

Thankfully we did not need to negotiate these steps (with our slightly stiff legs)

Finally laden with our shopping we headed home for an afternoon siesta!

This guy already taking his, on a very comfortable motorbike seat!

The path less travelled, when not in a rush, unravels many treasures and peculiarities of culture and life of the people who live here. The reason we wander…

7.8 km, plus another 2000 steps down and 1 km to walk to bus home!

It has been a big day again, with lots of foot and leg work! So welcome to the ride (or I should say hike)

The breakwater at Amalfi, the beginning of our journey – a bus ride from here to Agerola (the start of the track) which zigzagged straight up the mountain from Amalfi.

You can see some of the roads taken from the bus window!

Off we went – a short walk through the town to the track

Looking back on terraced grapevines which are all along the Amalfi coast! (A very manual planting and harvesting operation I would say)

Russ’s first rest stop at the beginning of the trail.

And Sues first view point! The views were incredible and not sure the pictures will do them justice. Just around the corner and…,

Flattened against the wall as three running donkeys (and one man not totally in control) roared past laden with firewood. Was a little in danger of losing a limb with long firewood branches!

This is the smooth part of the track (still feeling relatively fresh although definitely warming up)

As close to the edge as one dares! Some very steep cliffs.

Still going up and going strong!

Bells were ringing (not the church ones) and in the bushes we spied….

A herd of big black goats all wearing cowbells to alert us to their presence!

Looking back at this split rock reaching for the sky

A close up of the vineyard trellis ( all hand made) and time for a stop and snack break at the fork in the track.

Russ has found his rock! We were advised to take the low track as this had the best vistas (not sure it had the best track – this is where it got interesting)

First lookout point – right to the end of the Amalfi coast and Capri in the distance

A farmhouse high on the hill…. no wonder they need donkeys!

Russ and Jill on the rockier track ( this was a little downhill bit)

Just a little bit of tree hugging for Sue ( helps minimise the vertigo)

And the cobalt blue of the Mediterranean – and the skies a lighter shade (not a cloud in sight)

Looking up at a deserted house set in below the cliff face.

And down – way down!

Our first glimpse of Positano – still a long way to go (little did we know)

Jill and Russ – this time up! And on the rocky track (which set the scene for the next few kms)

When the going gets tough, the tough just take a wee rest! Most of water drunk by this stage.

Still views everywhere – Jill on the edge this time!

And arriving at Nocelle the end of the track! Well done team!

One flight of stairs down and a lovely plaza with this little cart selling lemon slushies and a few more cold drinks! A welcome stop!

That is where we were headed – we could have taken a bus to Positano but feeling very pleased with our achievements so far, we decided what was another 2000 steps! Actually option one would probably have been smart in hindsight!

Another donkey on the way down – knees, calves and several other parts of our anatomy were telling us we should have taken the bus. No wonder the Donkey was laughing at us!

We then made the decision to walk the 1km to Positano to keep the legs moving (some people never give in!)

Around the road edge looking still down!

And Positano, there you are! With two bus rides and two hours ahead of us, we chose not to browse the souvenir shops (hard choice) and get on the first bus of our journey to Amalfi (standing room only)

Back at the abode at Vietri Sul Mare and very happy to be here! What a great achievement for Russ who a month ago thought he would never be able to do this hike. Never say never!!! Still a lot left in the tank!

Vietri Sul Mare, far enough away from the cities, close enough to the must sees and fantastic views of the Amalfi Coast!

Surrounded by the locals, and living like the locals in our local house! Life is pretty good right now.

Today is a rest day, the weather is perfect and the breeze is just a gentle reminder that winter, for the Amalfians, may be on its way.

We have adopted the Italian shopping habits – out in the morning to buy fresh bread and supplies for the day (everything closes at midday and only some shops reopen at 5.00pm for a couple of hours)

Sue and Russ walked to our local convenience store first thing for the daily supplies.

Taking the long way round with a stroll along the seafront – the local boats pulled up for the winter

A sand soccer pitch on the promenade – (actually two pitches)

Off to our local and back home for breakfast. Then our daily exercise – a walk up the hill to the town centre for our coffee and a leisurely stroll around the shops (that we only ever see closed). €430.00 for this fabulous guitar handbag! (Photo opportunity only)

Back home by midday and relaxing in the sunshine.

Russ enjoying a coffee on our deck before lunch and a lie down (resting the weary legs after yesterday’s rock scrambling)

Jill chilling with her book and the days washing, almost dry! When you travel for two and s half weeks with a carry on bag only, there comes a time when we need to wash clothes!

Sue about to pack up her book and head to the beach for the afternoon

The sea looking very inviting. Even though the locals are decked out in jeans, boots and jackets, it is certainly warm enough for the kiwis to don their bathing suits a few more times!

For those of you who have been, you will recognise some of this story, for those that haven’t yet ticked this off your bucket list – get ready to ‘Rock’

A little history – Pompeii is an ancient Italian city buried by the eruption of Mt Vesuvius in 79AD and excavations to expose its remains began in late 1800’s

Arriving in Pompeii at 9am (a 30 minute train ride from our town) on a chilly morning after yesterday’s storm. 10 minutes of walking the gauntlet of tour operators trying to sell us deals to the archeological site.

This monument in the town square is for our American friends, the Pompeii memorial to 9/11

In the gates at 9.15!

We then had a march across the other side of the park for Russ to get an audio guide (already put off the tours which were groups of around 30!)

As there was no underground drainage in this city, the cobbled streets served as water run offs – the crossings were elevated boulders in the street!

Thirsty work – Russ seeing if the water fountain is still working

Jill and I left Russ to exit, at gate two, in search of his audio guide. At which time Sue stepped on a paving stone (covering a very deep hole) which wasn’t secure and sent her flat on her face! Rather embarrassing but luckily on grass!

We then wandered through the gladiators theatre

And the stadium above it

A semi circle amphitheatre for comedy and pantomimes!

We continued up the hill (this place is huge) and through some Palatian homes

Some of the original artwork still remains in the house ruins ( the more wealthy the more blue!)

We found ourselves in the Forum – the large square where people gathered to meet and do business

With the remains of a man horse statue (head missing)

And the basilica (church) off to the side.

The remains of the entrance pillars in the foreground

Still no sign of Russ! A quick phone call determined he was sorted and armed with his audio box ( which actually turned out to be a lemon) and we met up again. It was easier to surreptitiously listen to the English guides spiel when needed!

Lunch break (packed sandwiches)

The Roman’s invented LEGO over 2000 years ago – proof in these unearthed remains!

The rear end of this enormous statue on the hill top – marking the temple of Venus.

The inside of a house and remains of utensils!

Writing that has survived the centuries! Above a place of business

Artwork on walls inside one of the preserved homes – still in great condition on the plaster walls.

Miles and miles of unearthed remains of Roman homes, businesses, fountain rooms, churches and plazas.

We finally ended up in the colluseum arena where the gladiators performed!

Footsore, backsore and rocked out it was time to make our merry way home, after five hours of Pompeii adventures, a couple of hundred stairs downhill and home to a lovely sunny evening.

So the weather gods today were suggesting a rest day for the wandering Kiwis!

Well almost!

This morning we left for a shopping trip (food) headed to Salerno and the dark clouds are rolling in from the south!

Prepared for the weather change with rain jackets and umbrellas we walked to the top, to catch the bus, arriving in the city of Salerno around 10.30am.

Creatures of habit coffee first!

Gentle rain showers started and the coats and umbrellas came out! However we needed to see the place while we were there!

We headed away from the boutique (tourist) area into the old city

The streets got narrower with many abandoned or closed shops and buildings!

More homeless humans of the city and seedy little bars (thinking we may have chanced on the drug area off the beaten track)

Safety in numbers our trek continued…rain now slowed to an intermittent drizzle)

Small hole in the wall shops were still open (no customers just the venders on the footpath smoking)

A little butchery and fruit and vegetable seller (strings of rather old peppers)

Boiled Fruit lollies behind closed windows!

Colourful tacky lace frocks for the undiscerning tourist! (Wasn’t tempted)

Decided it was time to hunt down the one supermarket we had found on “google” and get back to our abode as the skies were getting darker!

Found the church – always a good sign!

And guided by an angel! The Christmas bunting was starting to go up in these old streets!

The bell tower is all that remains of the original church, rang out its 11.45am chimes! (Maybe a prelude to the midday ringing)

We found the supermarket, not as we know it, (more like our corner store) and stocked up as best we could. Laden with three full carry bags we headed out of ‘Old Salerno’. We still had a bus to catch!

Arriving at the top of our hill around 1.30pm. Temperature dropping and Sues arms getting longer by the minute (heavy bags), and, as chance would have it, we spied our little shuttle bus to ride down to the marina and near our house!

Five minutes to spare, thunder and lightning rolled in from the sea, darkness and heavy rain!

I would say we had perfect timing with today’s travels and, as we have food, a lazy night in for us is planned!

Part two of today’s story begins…

Landing at the Grand Marina on Capri Island,

Joining the throngs of Tourists! (Again)

Quick bathroom stop, purchased a couple of bus tickets, then to avoid the queues, we decided to walk up the hill to Capri town! Definitely a path less travelled as it was all ours!

Jill on the first leg looking quite fresh!

Through alleyways of steps, this wrought iron grape gate to someone’s house!

Nearing the top, more steps and time for a rest!

Looking back towards from where we had come, still more steps to go!

Finally at the top – 900 steps and this does not include the flat inclines! Definitely time for a coffee and food! 7€ ($13.00 NZD) for a latte, very nice! And well appreciated!

We then wandered down a path well travelled to some points of interest.

Very elaborate hotels! (This is only one of them)

A ceramic sculpture – rope included!

A lemoncello stall on a lovely promenade

Almost a bush walk (a rarity when visiting a Rock)

Antique water fountains! (Used to make the Capri perfume) They tell us the water is fine to drink (not risking this though)

Another one – set in beautiful gardens – we had definitely walked to a more affluent area!

We paid €1.00 to visit the Krupp gardens – a Euro well spent!

The lookout at the top of the gardens and…

Back towards the marina side! The views (and cliffs) were breathtaking! Little did I realise what was yet to come!

Back through Capri (and this little statue) to catch a bus to AnaCapri (the sister twin on the other side of the island)

Ok so this is a little mini bus crammed full (we had standing room only) and up the side of a mountain! Sorry no pictures here as it was so steep, I thought I was going to die, and held my breath all the way to the top! I would say the scariest ride I had ever had in my life!

At the top a cute little town

Ceramic steps and a roaming cat!

Cobbled streets and cute little shops.

Russ checking out some new fashion styles!

Decided we would head back to the marina and do a boat trip to see the island from the outside! Deep breath and on the bus back down the mountain! Enough said, a trip I wish to forget!

Ok so we got conned (thankfully) into a private (rather expensive but fantastic) cruise! Here we go!

Russ and Hugo our driver as we leave!

Sue in her happy place – on the sea in a boat! (Even though she wasn’t driving)

The cliffs!

The caves!

The blue grottos!

The hole in the rock (yes we went through)

A private swim off the boat (towels provided) and Sue’s bikini pants ended up at her ankles as she dived in!

Oops lucky save – that could have ended up badly!

And a portrait of the wanderers with the faraglioni rocks in the background (Jill just holding it together)

End of a fabulous tour! Back into port as the clouds are rolling in and enjoying a well deserved drink (expensive) while waiting for our Ferry and our friendly taxi driver booked to collect us on arrival!

Capri it had been fun!

Today has been a huge day of excursions and I will break this down into two stories!

The day trip to Capri planned, but this story is about the Amalfi coast from the sea!

Up and out the door at 7.30am to wait for our taxi to the ferry terminal (no buses at this hour on a Sunday)

The sunrise once again golden!

This Italian peasant basking in the morning sunshine looking out to sea.

On the first ferry at 8.20am and leaving Salerno port

This is the port where all the ferries and container ships come and go from, that we have been watching from our deck, since we arrived in Amalfi

This is looking back at Vietri Sul Mare, our home in the coast.

Minori – not sure how the cliffs turned out black – I think it’s the shadow from the sun

And Amalfi from the sea – definitely the best way to see this town – free from the throngs of tourists. (And expensive tourist shops)

Finally our last stop to collect passengers – Positano – a place we are yet to visit on the land side.

Ferry quite full, by this stage, another 30 minute ride to our destination for the day…The island of Capri! The sky’s clearing and a beautiful sunny day loomed ahead, the three Kiwis ready to explore!

A clear sunny day and we were up and ready to roll early! Adventure for today to catch the bus to ‘Amalfi’,the town, halfway up this mountainous coast!

The ceramic tunnel to the bus stop (nice walk wrong place)

Found the right one and not long before the bus was due to arrive we were advised no ticket sales on bus – a quick dash up the road and back with 2 minutes to spare, return tickets in hand!

The bus was already full and the three kiwis spread out the Length of bus (on the wrong side for photo opportunities)

Through the window on the other side ! ( a moment when I wasn’t holding on for dear life). I have a new admiration for Amalfi coast bus drivers, as we were all feeling squeezy and in need of a walk and strong coffee on arrival (after an hour in the very treacherous bus ride)

We walked through the tourist street to the top end of town for our coffee

And this little cutie for rent (for my car enthusiasts) parked nearby!

Down the busy tourist street back to the seafront

And the centre of town….

Past The basilica (every town had one)

And finally found the tourist information centre to get some information on ferry timetables (as definitely a better option after our bus trip experience) and the walks around the coast.

Jill decided she would go off and do one (walk) and Russ and Sue explored Amalfi a bit more…

On the edge (avoiding cars, buses and motorbikes)

Around the point

Looking towards the next swimming hole.

And a bunch of aforementioned motorbikes lined up…

Looking back towards Amalfi, every little bit of space utilised.

Having seen the tourist street and the church and not wishing to hike in 28 degrees we wandered to the other end of the beach.

Pay for a space and all rocks – our sandy beach back at Vietri Sul Mare looking pretty good!

View back towards Amalfi from the Seawall

And Russ relaxing looking further West up the coast (an adventure for another day)

Back up at the buildings in the cliffs (guessing Jill is up there somewhere and not at all envious)

Gasping for a cool one, in good Bonnici-Carter style, we found a small shaded bar and inhaled a Corona and a plate of Olives! Nothing like mixing Mexican with Italian!

On the bus back to our quiet town (with a very distressed dog yapping away), we have the seaside window and great views

Down to another beach , although can’t quite work out how!

The terraced gardens – we can see lots of grapes growing in terraces down to the sea! No wonder Italians have nice legs (up and down these hills!)

Almost home, Salerno in the distance and the sea looking every inviting.

We two are very happy we don’t have to travel this road every day to explore the coast – next trip planned by sea! (Thinking the dog would be happier too!)