Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagun – day 18 – 22.92kms….

Last night I had dinner with Sarah and Perry from Toronto….sea bass, preceded by a delicious garden salad and followed by apple tart (wine and water included for €16)

However…intermittent water supply throughout the whole Albergue (hostel) and no flushing toilets or showers…and no fan or aircon….very hot in rooms…a cold shower was desperately needed!

I woke this morning at 5.30am….dealt to toes (blister plasters…and Vaseline on feet) and went downstairs at 6am…breakfast wasn’t until 7am…no water, luckily I had bottled water to at least clean my teeth! Just as I was wondering if I would skip breakfast and hit the road while it was still cool, my friends Perry and Sarah (from Toronto) appeared also very frustrated with the “dry” situation…and we left together!! As the sun was rising…

Still nice and cool…over the token bridge out of the deserted village of Calzadilla de la Cueza!!! The town with no water!

My first toe stop (I will call them toe stops as the broken toe needs to be released periodically) was about 6km in…Perry and Sarah carried on while I released the foot and watched the sun rise….not many on the track at this time…in fact saw no one…

I then carried on to the first village, Ledigos, being a Sunday .. still asleep at 8am…. But needed another toe stop to repair the bluster plasters….foot was happy for a while…so off I went…still no morning coffee insight until about 8kms in at Terradillos de Los Templar’s, I spied my friend (the taxi team gals) Gail from yesterday…sitting on a terrace outside a very nice looking Albergue…I popped in to say hi

Gail was waiting for her taxi again today…as her huge heel blister is prohibiting her from walking and her hubby and team had already left….the proprietor made us a great coffee…then Perry and Sarah appeared, I had passed them in last town, they joined us (Sarah is a coffee gal too)… and suddenly the Albergue was doing a roaring trade in coffees and a clean functional bathroom!!!

Snap dragon flowers welcoming everyone in!!!

Perry and Sarah and the token Kiwi…and then we all continued on our way….

Leaving this town, waved on by an iron Templar (knight)

Opening up to stone paths and fields of green…until another toe decided it needed some attention…dealing to these guys immediately….means the day goes well…but note: it is not just all about toes(although one would think so)

Side of the road operation…lucky I carry all the necessary bits with me!!! Then 20 meters down the track …the perfect place…

Sarah and I still took the opportunity to enjoy the outdoor furniture…. Before carrying on …until… in the distance a hill that looked like hobbit town!!!

The tiny village of Moratinos…and its bodegas…

These Bodegas are set in the hills , historically used for wine making and storage of wine, cheeses, hams etc….when the world was without fridges!! …. Below the sign on the hill…saying these are not hobbit houses…the first thing I thought of, when I saw them in the distance!

Cute diversions….followed the arrows through the village …everything closed in a Sunday..

The locals lapping up the sunshine!

Leaving the village and back into the countryside…388kms to go…nearing the official halfway point in Sagagun!

Poppies still prevalent in this area…dotting the green with red…one more village …9kms out from our destination and the second coffee stop…San Nicolas del Real Camino…

A great bar adorned with pilgrim memorabilia….reminded me of the Puhoi pub near my home in NZ…treasuring the old…

And not just the old humans passing through on a daily (hourly) basis!

The last part of the journey…was those hard cobbled stone paths…while providing peace and serenity…knocked the joints and knees around….oh just saying at this point after folding my walking poles up yesterday…and trying to resurrect them today…the joining mechanisms are broken and they are not safe to use…so they got carried for the day…ready to be ditched at my destination…and I will be in search of a new set before the next mountain range!!

Newly sown fields of sunflowers that will be blooming for the late June pilgrims…and the town of Sahagun in the distance…toes just hanging in….one more shoe off rest stop and then into the outlying paths leading to a cool shower and cool beer…

But first a compulsory detour (a few extra steps)

The official half way point on the Camino Frances route to Santiago de Compostela for those of us who started in St Jean pied de Port…

It was then the last (longest) 2kms to our hostel …. On the outskirts of town…street art, past factories and streets covered in weeds and then home…for me two nights…I walk the stage tommorow and transferred back so will catch up with friends a day behind…

Last few steps ….roundabout

And the new Camino Meseta Comrades enjoying a beer on the terrace!!!

Carrión de Los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza – day 17 – 17kms ( of farms and stone tracks…so I heard!)

Actually 4kms for me today…dropped bag at 8am, took breakfast…walked into town and stocked up on snacks….chips, chocolate, biscuits and more sunblock! Then explored the beautiful Monestry of San Ziolo …which my hotel is attached to:

Beautiful garden cafe…

Breakfast room…

Rugby field? Or maybe in Spain soccer pitch…at breakfast I caught up with an Australian group of four, and Gail, one of the wife’s was looking to take a taxi too, due to blisters and shin splints! So we agreed to meet and visit the Monestry (free for us as we are staying there) at 10am when it opened!

The cool stone walkways around the two internal gardens…

The fountain garden (with Sue framing the photo) I asked Gail to not include the feet at this point that are relaxing in jandals for the day!!! and not looking pretty!

And here the tree garden….

The covered pathways around each square sport amazing concrete architecture… let me tell you at this point the history behind this Monestry…

San Zoilo was founded by Count Gómez Díaz and his wife Originally dedicated to John the Baptist, it obtained its current name after receiving the relics of Saint Zoilus in 1047. In 1076, the widowed Countess Teresa donated the monastery to the Monks where it became a hospital and sanctuary for pilgrims (probably also with sore feet!)

The chapel inner sanctuary…

The crypt housing Teresa and her family…

And the library….gorgeous ceilings and original hand illustrated bibles on display..

And the Arches in this library….solid wood framing the stone semicircles…not for the tall in stature!

Of course it was cool within this massive stone building, with the chanting of monks in the background…until I realised….no monks, a Tv on repeat! I guess as not a functioning monastery now, more of a museum, this is the next best option…

After an hour of cultural!! Gail and I had time to take a coffee in the garden bar…resting our sore feet, legs…

The taxi turned up just before midday…first dropping me (at this one horse village – actually no horse) then taking Gail to the next village where the rest of her team were meeting….all for a mere €45 – €23 each! As I spend €20 a day on blister plasters, this was €3 well spent) and my sore foot was relishing being out of Jail for a day!!

This town has less than 60 inhabitants (pilgrims probably making up 55 of this number on a daily basis) …. However bags all arrived and so did a lot of very hot Camino walkers (having walked 17kms through open farmland!) i haveseveral Camino connections staying here, so is fun to catch up!

However, for my hot sweaty friends, we were all informed on check in there is no water! It’s been out for two days! No showers, no flushing…no tap water! But luckily on the 3rd day….our day….it has just come on!

I will take dinner tonight…at 6.30pm and breakfast tomorrow at 7am then I will fold my feet back into the salmons(shoes) to fight another day….on the homeward stretch to Leon !

Fromista to Carrión de Los Condes – day 16- 19.2 kms….

After a great day yesterday and extolling the virtues of the Spanish Meseta, today made me realise what all the warnings had been about!

Leaving the town of Fromista around 7.30am…had waited for breakfast…which again was probably not worth the hours of coolness wasted!

Past Spanish villas locked up like Fort Knox! I have just realised that every hotel…we are locked in or out at night too…there must be a high risk of break-ins! Around about here I ran into an Irishman (Mathew) who I walked with out of town…

Over the proverbial bridge lined with this very strong smelling yellow flower …

And through the last outpost!! Little did I know – there was a fork in the road…riverside way or the traditional way…he and I took the traditional way! Dumb move….the next 4kms was road side exposed walking – although this first 6kms was filled with Irish humour…

Around 6kms, he carried on, and I gave my feet their first 10 minute rest!

In a very picturesque (?) part of town outside a hay baling storage factory – this little town (Problacion de Campos) was devoid of cafes and in fact any other sign of life…

And I was on my own ponding the open roads…counting imaginary sheep in my head!

The odd sprinkling of Poppies to add colour to the day!

Finally the next town…Revenga de Campos…these names were producing a rather hopeless feeling (first Problem, secondly Revenge!) ok so around 9kms in and again no bar or toilet! Of course it wasn’t really bush wee country …as one was on the side of the road and in open view of the rest of the pilgrims! (For miles)

This kinda says it all…just me and my shadow…both needing a bathroom and a stone path that was very much starting to reverberate on my tender feet! Another 5kms of this (alone) finally stumbled (literally and physically) into the village of Villalcázar de Sirga…where the one cafe of the day was bursting with gasping pilgrims…and a steady run on the bathroom!

I spent about an hour here (putting off the inevitable…last 6kms) visiting the church

Which was lovely and cool inside…

Checking out more blooming roses…roses grow so well in this climate!

And basically wasting time…knowing my feet were going to struggle on the homeward straight!

Oh and they did…in the midday heat of 30 degrees (feels like 40 – for me at least and my very hot painful right foot!) I did have to stop about 2kms out and take my shoe off for a few minutes!

Finally arrived a little after 1pm at Carrión de Los Condes…and googled my hotel of course it was on the other side of town so let’s just hobble for another kilometre!

Through town and out the other side…

Over this bridge…then walked around in circles for half an hour trying to find the hotel…which is part of the Monasterio de San Zoilo…The monastery of San Zoilo was a Benedictine monastery in Spain between the 10th and 19th centuries. Today, the complex, on the banks of the river Carrión in Carrión de los Condes, houses a luxury hotel …. And that’s where I am for the night!

This is the river Carrion …. The best part of my day, lounging in the garden bar eating Pizza for mid afternoon lunch(dinner) with a cool beer…although not before plunging my feet (and legs) into a cold bath…

Tomorrow is 17kms of the last 6 (open air roadside walking) I did today…so I made a thoughtful decision (for my feet) to booked a taxi to the next town…sleep in a little and visit the monastery when it opens at 10am before I have to check out and taxi at midday!

Castrojeriz to Frómista – day 15 – 26.31 kms .. Today I was woken by the Irish group at 5.30 am and I thought get up start now or waste an hour until after breakfast – so I taped up my toes and left at 6.15am…

The church was illuminated in the twilight….electrolytes, chocolate bar and apricot in pack! Skipped breakfast at 7.30

First up a big climb!!! The goosebumps quickly disappeared…

The first hour was the hill climb as the sun was rising… thank goodness as the goosebumps quickly disappeared…

My french friend Jean -pierre pulled me up this hill – I thought I was hill fit but with 2 days on the meseta it was a chalkenge!

Then it was a bit of “the bear came over the mountain” moment and steep Downhill – zig zagging to protect my my knee….the toe tapeing working well!

Following the path and voila a food truck for my morning coffee at 9am! The best instant coffee ever! Caught up with Claudia from Germany!

Through more farmland and less undulating pathways

A small church before the first village of Itero de la Vega

As I had taken a coffee and chocolate bar (snickers) at the food truck I carried on… feet and legs feeling good!

Almost half way through! Ha!

Irrigation systems for my farmer followers (John)

This guy. Looking for food on the way!

Past a little sprinkling with the watering system which was welcome as at 10.30 am heating up!

It was then a flattish walk over canal bridges where the canals feed the farms with water..

Into the town of Bordilla which was about 6 km from the final destination

This was the second coffee stop of the day(midday) , replenished my water, bathroom stop and replastered the first blister in 15 days! The rest of the feet holding out well …,with 20km down!

Prayers for my friends… and on the road again …..homeward straight!

After a couple of miles we followed the canal into fromista! It was nice…. Pace a little slower this is the longest day so far!

New flora is starting to appear…

And this daffodil like flower on the edge of the canal….

And voila! The lock into the town of Fromista!

More storks nesting!

Another little walk, visit to the pharmacy for more blister plasters…and a beer!

Oh no (Bob) a radler Amistal that tastes like lemon! Swapped with the English couple and they brought me a Heineken …was about to leave the full beer here!

I showered and laundry washed and went to the bar for a real beer…my friend Claudia from Germany arrived and Jean Pierre ( from France had already joined me) – dinner at 6.39pm and bed…. Small day tomorrow 19km… will take my breakfast!

Everyone had been telling me – be prepared for the meseta! But to be honest this was probably my best day yet!

Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz – Day 14 – 21kms!

After a very Ho hum breakfast at 7am, the shuttle dropped me back to my starting point in Hornillos…a very unremarkable town….

Then it was a gradual uphill climb for the first hour or so!

Then out into the fields of wheat and windmills..

The pink sky behind me promising another warm day!

I’m kinda at the point where I never need to see another wheat field! Climbing climbing…more plasters on broken little toe….so far managing the complaining feet!

Then the landscape opened out to what seemed like miles of flatland…

The odd cross to amuse us!

The odd shoe on a pile of rocks!

And a soul searching stretch of gravel path bordered by wheatfields…

Then over the brow of the straight Hontanas Village appeared below …. The halfway point.,., coffee, bathroom and water restock for the 2nd half of today’s journey!

A cute little village with the first cafe open at 10.30am… nothing else further on, so my theory from yesterday is incorrect! Maybe stopping at the first cafe is smart!!! Here I met a German lady also travelling on her own Claudia!

As I left Hontanus I walked down the village street to the church at the bottom of the hill…

I went inside…it was nice and cool and I could light a candle for someone….

I did this for Steve Waugh (Jill’s brother) who passed away suddenly yesterday….and took a moment for the family…

Then I was out in the countryside for my next 10.5 kms…. Managing my screaming toe! The rest of the day was pretty flat and meandered through the valley….

It was nice to have a change of landscape from wheatfields and wind farms! I sat on the side of the path about 4kms from my destination…taking a break in the shade of a tree…but what I didn’t realise was that 20meters over the next rise were the ruins of the convent of San Anton…

So everyone that marched past me must have thought I was crazy….anyway…another break!

Along with the masses…. Actually took off shoes and put feet up for 20 mins…

Little memorials in the stone…

Under the windows to the sky! And shade of the ruins!!! 30degrees and rising outside!

Leaving here the vegetation took a desert like turn with waist high thistles – cactus like thistles! And this is where the title of today’s story kicks in…

My destination in the distance…at this point, the taste of my first beer is teasing my tastebuds….the sweat is rolling down the side of my face (my bandana already saturated) ….the shoes are loosened off as the feet always swell in the last few kms!….and the broken toe is screaming “Let me out!” My pace has slowed, and without my Camino buddies to chat to and distract me, all of the above kick in!

It’s just one foot in front of the other….

As the village gets closer! I google the hotel…but follow the Camino trail through town…

This gal almost getting me in! But as my hotel was at end of the town I kept plodding on…

Checked in and ran a cold bath (there you go Sue – I can do it) to soothe my feet, wash my hair then do the laundry! , which dries in an hour or so on my windowsill facing west!

Ok then it was beer time! A bar across the corner…. A handle only €1.80 and Jean Pierre from France….testing out my schoolgirl French, and Claudia from Germany joined me – until 4pm they locked the door and it was over….compulsory feet up time!

A nice Canadian couple Sarah and Jerry, who I walked with, off an on, today asked me to join them for dinner at 7pm….so it will be an eat and sleep evening as 25kms tomorrow!

Burgos to Hornillos del Camino – day 13

Today I walked for Janine (heal well) Gigi (recover quickly) and Steve W (RIP and prayers for the family)

Before I start a few pictures from my evening in Burgos last night…

I met my Camino Friend Jan for dinner…we then took a stroll around this beautiful city (daylight until 9pm)

Shaded plazas with everyone out enjoying the cooler evening…

Sitting on a park bench with the church spire and Jesus watching over us!!! We said our goodbyes (maybe forever – maybe not) and I wandered back to my hotel at 9pm…spying my other Camino friends Rosann and Micki – so goodbyes again as they are staying another day in this town….I kinda felt my so journey was starting all over! As the first 2 weeks (almost) has been fun meeting others and making great connections on this journey!

But no time to ponder…as I was up at 6am dealing to my toes with the very technical operation of plasters on hot spots! Then breakfast at 7am…where I saw Rosann and Micki again (yay) and on the road at 7.30am!

This looked like a good option…but no time to dally and smell the roses…

…. if I wanted to make the most of the cooler morning… finding my way out of town…I ran into a lady from England, Chrissie, and together we navigated our way out of the suburbs!

Past monuments

One last view of the cathedral spire – catching the rising sun!

Chrissie and I walked the first half of today’s journey together and it was very pleasant…with shaded areas…

Hay fields…

Motorway bridges….rest stops and easy chats!

The odd river or two and arriving at the first village of Villalbilla on the outskirts of Burgos…we decided not to stop here and carried on to the halfway point of Tardajos, found a great garden bar for coffee and breakfast (for Chrissie) around mid morning…

I have realised the secret of not stopping. At the first tent or food truck you see …. There is always another less crowded non touristy option!

I left Chrissie here as she only had a short walk to her accomodation…. And cleared the town… but not before….

A church stop and a prayer for my friends who are going through struggles….my sore feet are nothing compared to their world right now!

I don’t go into all the churches, but this one popped up on me when I felt I needed it!

Just a mile or so on was the last village before the final 10km of the day…

The wall art continues…this one the back of a large garage!

Today’s climb was beginning… in this village of Rabe de las Calzadas….

Then it was out in the big wide wilderness …. A gradual ( but continual) ascent of over 700m – totally exposed to the sun with wheat fields and hay making on the farms! Luckily I had refilled both my water bottles, as constant hydration was a must, and even a bush wee…as it was a long time between drinks – euphemism for restrooms.

I found this track very isolated with very few walkers, so kept going to keep at least one person in sight in the distance…

An oasis half way up this 7km stretch…but I dare not stop as I might not get going again!

There you go team…my view for half the day!! In the blazing sun ….. up and more up, even a bit hot for the poppies!

However there were some pretty little purple flower bushes… not sure if I am starting the meseta yet or this is just a gentle (?) conditioning process!

We were definitely back in windmill country as every ridge was lined with these big white birds! When I felt I was almost at the top I took a break…water break and shoe break..

On this pile of rocks…a few sandal bits were left floating around…,I hope the humans made it to their destination!

Hot sweaty mess selfie – alone on the track …not sure where all the pilgrims were that we saw this morning, maybe they had stopped earlier?

After prising myself off my rock haven… another 200meters over the (last) rise behold…my destination in the distance!

Back to zigzagging and looking after my knees for the steep descent, all the while the soles and little toes of my feet screaming! As always that village was a lot further away…so after another 30-40 mins I finally arrived (22.31kms)

Hornillos del Camino…I had to meet at a certain bar for my shuttle to my hotel at 3.00pm…I had an hour for a cold beer! Yay! But the barmaid (female) kept ignoring me and it took half an hour for her to get around to pouring my beer! Only after I asked the man next to me to order one for me (very kindly he did)

Then my 3.00pm shuttle turned up at 2.40pm so I had to scull the pint!

Checked in and had a cold bath on my legs and feet and arranged with the shuttle driver to pick me up at 7.30am (instead of the scheduled 9.00am) so I can at least get a couple of cool hours on the road!

Also dinner is served here at 6.30pm… so I can get myself (mentally and physically) prepared for tomorrow….we are into the Meseta!

To explain:

The Meseta Central is Spain’s vast, high-altitude central plateau. Covering about 210,000kms and it spans Castile and León (where Burgos is located), Castile-La Mancha, and Extremadura. Sitting at an average elevation of 660 meters, it is famous for extreme temperatures, vast agricultural plains and sweaty pilgrims!!!

I think I have 8 days of this ahead! But best not think about this right now…time to find a beer (that I don’t have to scull)

Love to all…

San Juan de Ortega to Burgos – day 12

Sitting in the bar last night with a couple of fellow wanderers….

They were trying to book their next days accommodation – and I was smelling the roses sipping my beer……or was I? Trying to get my head around a 9am pick up for transfer to today’s starting point and walking 7-8 hours in the heat of day???

While the hotel reception had told us there were no early buses and a taxi would cost €50, the barman, a much nicer bloke, told us there was….so we looked it up but the bus route avoided the Camino route!

One thing about this journey….is we learn very quickly set plans do not always pan out!

And as I am walking the next few days….we decided (collectively of course) an 8.50am bus to Burgos would give me (at least) time to explore this gothic city! And avoid several miles of pavement pounding on my sore feet!

We left the hotel after a leisurely breakfast, and took a short stroll to the bus stop….the bus was 20 minutes late….and we were doubting the website information there for a bit….but sure enough along it came…full of people, hardly a spare seat, aside from the locals many pilgrims had also decided to rest their blistered feet!

Arriving at the central Burgos bus station around 9.30am! My mission for the morning was to buy a new suitcase, as now mine has not only lost a wheel, the zip is broken….after 15 years, one just has to let some things go! Along with the winter PJs, the worn out gortex jacket…and a number of other items I have gifted on the way!

Crossing the bridge into the old town towards the main attraction here.

Burgos, is a provincial capital in Spain’s autonomous community of Castile and León, it is marked by its intact medieval architecture. Its most recognizable landmark is the French Gothic Cathedral of St. Mary, whose 3 main doorways are flanked by ornamented bell towers. 

This is just one side, the enormous structure actually covers a whole block! But as the shops were open until 2pm, I had a bit of supply shopping to do….first the suitcase! I resisted the temptation of entering any of the fabulous boutique shops as I was on a mission!

Accomplished!!!! Then I was towing a new case around! So I decided that, before any more exploring, I would check in and dump my new accessory at the hotel before I wandered any further!

Next job was to stock up on toe plasters, and as luck would have it …. There was a pharmacy just around the corner! Actually there are more pharmacies in this country than any other retail shops…Job done!

Wandering the streets…heading towards a supermarket for some walking supplies (nuts and chocolate) I could take in my surroundings…

Burgos is a very clean, pretty city, with a mix of Old and not so old!

Storks nesting on the church spires! The nests are as big as Jaxon’s mini! …. This spire….

Obviously they don’t have a problem with heights!

Supermarket shopping done…which was now another heavy bag to cart around…as water supplies for tomorrow were included! A quick shop in an emporium shop full of junk – in search of a cheap umbrella as I believe my next four walking days on the meseta provides very little shelter from the sun!

Back to hotel with the next round of supplies, I could now check in, the broken bag taking its last journey to my room…where I could swap to the new one!

Then it was back out on the streets to explore…by now shops all closing and cafes ramping up for the mid afternoon lunch rush!

I walked the last mile of today’s Camino trail…just so I didn’t feel I had completely deviated from my path!

Soaking up the street art…

And hopping from side to side of the street to catch the shade.

This path took me to the other side of the infamous cathedral…

Cobbled streets of old town…

Stone walled steps…with holes to peep though!

This certainly is impressive architecture!

The Templar knights of Burgos…

The Order of the Templars was founded around the year 1118 to provide security and facilitate the Camino de Santiago for pilgrims of the time. It consisted of a medieval Christian military order responsible for protecting pilgrims in the most dangerous and unpopulated stretches of northern Spain.

Another iron statue…this one’s for you Trudi and Julie….and all the other avid readers out there!

Here is one panning for gold, a world wide historical pastime.

I am now sitting in this shaded park with tree sculptures and birds singing…and it’s 5 O’clock somewhere…,actually almost here…a cool drink is much needed!

Belorado to San Juan de Ortega – day 11 Camino Frances…

As I take one day at a time…last night when I checked out today’s schedule…my Camino buddy pointed out that I was walking through the village where I was staying tonight 11.5 kms before I reached today’s finish line! Where I was due to be picked up by a shuttle and transferred to my accommodation!

So I had a choice of walking distance…12kms to my hotel in the village of Villafranca Montes de Orca…or the full day of 24kms to the end only to be then collected and brought backwards! My feet screamed “Rest Day”, my head argued for a moment…but a three hour foot day before an 8 hour one tomorrow really was a no brainer…

Today’s story begins with last evenings activities! Laundry done, and ready to head out by 5ish…although had planned to meet my friend Jan around 6pm for dinner …. I headed towards the square..where I ran into a couple of fellow pilgrims and (having acquired a taste for the Spanish “Rose” ) I ordered a wine for myself and one for my friend …€2.80 ($5NZD) for both!!! One could easily become an alcoholic in this country!

Jan Arrived, and we went in search of an eating place, most not opening for dinner until after 7pm…however as we were wandering around and getting the same result, we decided to just enter one that looked good and found they were already taking dinner orders ….a three course meal and a wine or water (bottle) for €16.50 (around $30 NZD) each!!! These next two pics are for my foodie followers…entree was a dinner plate size fresh salad! Then…

The main course for me vegetarian lasagne…plate adorned with aioli artwork!! followed by…

Baked cheesecake with chocolate artwork…I chose the water option for liquid refreshment as I had had my beer in the afternoon and a pre dinner Rose!! Water and wine hold the same value!!

We all then had an after dinner coffee…mistake for me as I was wide awake until almost midnite! So pleased this morning I had opted for a shorter day…

Another piece of wall art!

Hitting the road at 7am…the proverbial exit bridge! This time I was on a wooden footbridge at the side of the vehicle one. And off into the countryside, without the knee brace for the first day since I began this adventure!

Cotton wool trees lined the path and white fluffy cotton wool on the ground (don’t actually know if this is correct) but this stuff has been floating around for the last few days…then there were more wheatfields and gravel pathways…

I’m guessing a lot of flour is produced from this region!

It’s a big job to hoe the fields full of stone…These tractors seem to be one of the primary modes of transport in this area, apart from the steady stream of foot soldiers!

The first village cafe, and donation table was a little too soon into my day to partake, so I carried on to the next village

Which provided some much needed shade although only 9.30am…

Two churches in one town and just before leaving this village, “Villambistia”, an Albergue…with a garden cafe beaconed me in for my morning coffee…very pleasant umbrella covered terrace and a great coffee for a mere €1.80! I joined a nice Dutch couple and got to meet “Biru”

The Mexican street dog, “living and loving it in Spain” He was actually waiting (patiently?) for the stick to be thrown!!!

Leaving this cute village with a mere 5kms ahead ….

The homes were adorned with more physical object art…which was a change from the wall murals.

And team…here I am…chewing up the miles…with help of new friends company and support!

In the 500’s now…the Proclaimers song I used to dance to, keeps rolling through my brain!!! (Even though it refers to miles)

A little further along, as I navigated the downhill into my village stop, Rosanne and Micky…the gals from New Jersey caught up with me…

And we chatted for half an hour as we walked to the end of my journey for the day, they were going on to the expected destination of San Juan De Ortega…

My day had been a really relaxed snail stroll taking time to really smell the Roses…

Arriving at my hotel at midday…and able to check in pretty much straight away…

I feel like the Queen! The room is so pretty and the hotel amazing…

The view from my window…

And the relaxing (or reading or writing stories place) courtyard…so far, I’m sure there’s more … it kind of feels like an old castle and is furnished accordingly…now that I have had a couple of hours legs up … it may be afternoon beer time, so time for a wander..

Hasta mañana (until tomorrow)

Day 10 Camino…Santo Domingo de la Caldaza to Belorado…

Up at 6am….bag down and Breakky at 6.45am…on the road at 7am!….

Over the bridge…there seems to be a bridge as I leave every village….a little solo walking to get the knee and feet into the rhythm…

As the sun rose in the east, I was out in the countryside again…

Within half an hour the day had opened up to clear blue skies….with a promised high of 30 degrees!!…

Still comfortable walking me and this guy getting as many miles under our belt before it got “hot” . Not long after this, Rosanne and Micki (Camino friends from day 2) caught me and we walked together to the first town of Granon….

And we were greeted by a food truck and bathroom stop…

Rosanne ready for both amenities….6kms in on a 22km day…we all took a break…

We continued through the village admiring the flora…as springtime in northern Spain is full of colour!

We exited the village from this lookout point …promising long and winding roads (and they didn’t disappoint) …. The knee had warmed up and brace off…handling downhills much better…

Micki, Rosanne and I did the next stint together to the halfway point of Redecilla del Camino…along side a major road construction ….not too pretty!!!

Rest time, water break…sporting my new hat (I hate hats) but need one to protect my part line from the midday sun!

Micki and Rosanne continued on at their pace and I wandered at mine…taking a few shots (pictures) along the way…again wonderful floral plantings in these little villages…

Not long past here I ran into Jans (my Dutch Camino friend) having his morning tea sitting on a bench in the shade…so we trucked on together…he is not opposed to walking at my pace…and we came across a small village…both gasping for a coffee hit …off to the side a Dutchman has opened his home…provides great food and drinks…you make your own and wash up (in his house) with a donation…best lunchtime food I’ve seen so far!

Viloria de Rioja…is the village (a little side detour) but well worth the rest stop…Jans and I both took coffee here … me I had two!!! Then it was a bit of a long haul …. 6 Kms of exposed path beside motorway…into Belorado

The thought of my nice cold beer treat at the end of today’s trek kept me going…and pleasantly surprised….this was was just around the corner….sometimes the longest haul is when you can see the village…and the roads go on forever! Today it was just there!

Boys…this one is for sale!! A Reno job in northern Spain! Can probably get it for a few Euros…summer camp…just all bring tents!

This cute little village is nested underneath fabulous rock formations..may be a side trip but after 22kms…maybe not!

We wandered through the village to the square and the first beer (for me) with murals adorning the large plaster walls…

And of course the church! As always after a hot walk the beer was good – ran into my Camino gals…who were showered and were ready to eat! I was ready to shower (and shower laundry) as I have a terrace and clothesline outside my room (with pegs even)…I did have a wee flood in the bathroom…but the floors got another clean and my laundry is now flapping in the wind! Meeting my Camino friends back in the square at 6pm for dinner! Feet are good and knee is getting stronger by the day! Certainly not craving a bus day again any time soon!

Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada…supposedly 20.88km…I walked 19.1kms… not quite accurate as I’m sure I didn’t take any shortcuts…in fact probably did more as I zigzagged down the descents!

Leaving my room on the top floor at 7am…sneaked in for an early breakky…cornflakes and fruit and a coffee…I was ready to hit the road by 7.30am, before it got too hot!

Following the yellow arrows past the monstery in Najera then up…a (quite steep)cobbled road…knee brace flapping around ankle, as I need to strengthen this bad boy…and toes all plastered up to avoid hot spots turning into blisters…the breathing is not a problem…just saying!

This village of Najera is built into cliff faces and they were catching the first of the mornings rays!

The path then continued (more) up on white gravel…as Alot of this track is…there is a constant crunch crunch of feet and clack clack of walking poles! At this hour mostly mine!

Me and my shadow, today’s companion, heading downhill after the climb…knee still unbraced…and rolling along at a steady Sue pace (slow)

Looking back, the sun was coming over the mountains in the distance and one layer removed…as by 9am the day was already starting to warm up! Just me and the track, and Ken from Taiwan(we compared photos – a big connection) certainly time to smell the roses…

And avoid stepping on these inch long dung? Beetles…(I think that’s what they are.)

Sue and her shadow passed the next marker… the road to Compostela de Santiago is less than 700kms… we are just eating away the miles!

First village…Azofra…almost 6kms in …

Greeted by the livestock pens of roosters and hens..

Spring time in Spain is certainly very colourful..and the plant of choice in this area seems to be roses…here growing up the side of a house…

Welcoming guests at the front door…and…

Planter boxes at every window…I walked on through this village, not stopping, as I was feeling pretty good after my bus day yesterday…to be greeted by modern construction in

Timber…rather an anomaly in these parts where all buildings are stone or brick!

The only wood on the old houses are the (short) doors…I’m guessing the population of old were a much smaller race!

Leaving Azofra to head through to the next village of ciruena (9 kms away) …it was more of the stone chipped paths…and farmland

With the locals walking at my pace…birds cheeping…undulating countryside

The odd roadside waterfall…bees buzzing…and

This cotton ball thing growing on plants…guessing a nest of some sort……more grapevines and crop fields on either side…

Then a very long uphill…to the next village …needless to say…in exposed 28degree sunshine I was once again a hot sweaty mess…90 minute bikram yoga has nothing on this!

Lo and behold at the top of the hill and entrance to Ciruena…we were greeted by the rolling greens of a golf course! No humans partaking in the sport today……but a welcoming sign inviting hot sweaty pilgrims to wine and dine, or coffee and snack at the clubhouse…so we did , luckily, as there was nothing further into the town…and a restroom stop (note this for tomorrow Sue!)

To be honest, this village is a little underwhelming, with newish architecture and townhouses! And very soon we were out into the fields again for today’s homeward straight!

These were super pretty in flowers and sweet peas…kind of looked like a garden rainbow! Knees still rocking on without bandage!!!

Oh yeah…a lot of long straight paths…crunch crunch, tap tap….certainly time to smell the roses! Not a town in sight…

A little frog pond producing lots of croaking sounds…but frogs hiding out of the sunshine I’m sure!

Then behold – over about the 500th hill (ok so I’m exaggerating) there was the town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada in the distance, with a nice selfie of the hot sweaty mess in the foreground!

This area is known, I believe for its Iron…sculptures and bridge construction!

Hitting town…a welcome little fountain …and following the signs into the old town and home for the night…

With the golden arrows (not arches) leading the way!

Another little iron sculpture of a backpacking cyclist- these real life humans on bikes go roaring past us from time to time on the track!

Down the cobbled streets…

To rest in the square…seems to have become a daily habit…I blame Bob (friends from my first week!) although not in a bad way…,at the end of 20kms, we have earned this! I met up with another Camino mate Jans , who I’m catching for dinner in a bit back in the square…

Past the church and checked in…showered and changed…

I want looking for a new suitcase…on google the place was open…but I’m guessing IT hadn’t updated for the summer months…

A great day…sometimes solo is good for the soul (and knees) … just strolling along at 4kms an hour!