And then there is One

Malta is willing me to stay, after an overnight thunderstorm (street and car wash) this morning dawned clear and sunny.

Russell and Kevin had a date with Bingo up North and I had a social day planned with friends and cousins.

No excuse to drive the car, I walked the 30 minutes to the ferry to take me to Valletta.

As soon as we rounded the point of Senglea, I could see it was going to be a busy time in Valletta. Four cruise ships in today!! One even had to moor on our side of the harbour.

Met with Charles at the Museum cafe for our morning coffee. We swapped holiday stories. Followed by a little wander around the city (by now shoulder to shoulder with the boat tours).

I headed back (on ferry again) to the Birgu side for my next social catch up with cousins.

A warm 23 degrees I am sitting in the shade waiting for their arrival

Very pleasant and peaceful after the madness of Valletta.

Ship Anchors at the entrance to the Birgu port soaking up the sun, while I sat in the tree shade.

Another coffee and another catch up and finally home (mid afternoon) for a quiet evening in.

The gamblers came home empty handed, so I guess that means we are not buying our seaside appartment!

We have more friends from England joining us for a four days tomorrow – so a few more adventure days before we leave Malta next Wednesday.

The real cost of living

For the kiwi wanderers, and the other 2.5 million visitors to Malta, who marvel at the cheap food, clothing and entry prices to tourist attractions, spare a thought for the half a million people living here who keep this Island afloat!

The minimum wage is €4.25 (NZ$7.19) per hour. For a 40 hour week €170 (NZ$280) or €800 (NZ$1353) per month.

The average hourly rate for hospitality workers (if they are experienced) is €5-6 per hour. (NZ$8-11)

Healthcare workers €6.09 per hour. (NZ$11.00)

Average Rental properties, and these are usually apartments (if you’re lucky you have a lift) range from €400 (1bed) to €1200 (3 bed) per month. This also can be much higher (2-3 times) if you have sea views, the up market areas and close to the beaches. Average 2-3 bedroom is around NZ$1500-2500 per month. And if you want a house with a back yard this is a different story!

To buy a good house or apartment (2-3 bedrooms) it is area dependent andi what we saw 4 years ago for around €120,000 are now selling for €4-500,000 – from NZ$200,000 to close to a million!

Public Transport is very efficient – ferries always on time, buses usually on time, options of taxis an Uber’s.

Also the transport card system is very easy to use and top up online. Transport is reasonably priced and if you are over 60 very cheap to travel the island on buses and ferries!

Petrol for cars is expensive – works out about NZ$2.50 per litre unleaded. Car insurance and licensing on a par with New Zealand. Car prices Similar, just models and makes vary.

Walking is the best option – as carparking is scarce and the roads are very congested!

Food, healthy food, is well priced, fruit and vegetables fresh and a great variety!

Beer and wine are the same price in supermarkets and when you are out! Beer about the same as NZ and wine averages NZ$6 per bottle. However when you go to a bar or restaurant you still only pay NZ$2-2.50 got a beer or wine! It makes eating out even better.

While Malta is a fantastic tourist venue for its 2.5 million visitors per year (and very valuable income for Malta), spare a thought for the people who live and work here.

If they do not smile, maybe they are tired (or they don’t get paid enough to smile). If you receive fantastic service always leave a tip (remember this may be worth more than their wages). Do your best to take care of the small and overcrowded environment (there are plenty of bins). And always be gracious and kind.

Last time I was here for an extended period, I came away feeling, while many of the Maltese people are not that rich in assets, they are very rich in life and family! And they have hearts of gold!

Friends and Family

Out the door and off to Bormla this morning.

On the way to the car (the park is different every day) we passed a neighbour with his garage open and he invited us in…

This beautiful old Maltese bus and behind two vintage English buses.

Inside and Russ off for a ride!!

Business and coffee completed and, as Russ’s back is a little tender again, home for a lie down before heading to Valletta to meet Evelyn (a cousin) before we leave.

The most beautiful day, sunshine and no wind.

The ice cream cyclist drumming up business with the hot people waiting for the ferry.

Sue back in shorts again and the water feature trickling away.

Boats moored on the inlet – this 50m cat in front of the old Bormla docks (yet to be restored and the next stage of the American University)

Over the grand harbour and up to the Upper barakka gardens…

I never get tired of this view! Up high, blue skies, blue seas, Valletta and boats!

A nice hour with Evelyn and back to collect the car and head north to Marcella’s for dinner with Lino, Steve and Jaclyn. Sitting on the deck, at her 4th floor apartment, looking at the sea.

Life for the wanderers just gets better and better!

Off the beaten track again!

Russ and Kev went to the hypogeum this morning (catacombs) and I went grocery shopping

And persused the local stores! Red shoes Jill!

Russ and I then took off in search of some untourist sights. This took us to Hal-ghaxaq – a town in the south!

Very old and small doorways!

Crooked doors! Looks like it is actually open.

The locals sunning themselves ignoring the wanderers!

This plaque on a wall dating back to 1681!

And the reason for the visit!

The shell house – the owner decorated his house with shells, starting in 1898 and completed in 1901. He then ran it as a bar and leading up to its completion, he was a seaman who collected the shells from all around the Mediterranean and the Arab coast.

We then headed to the Monte Cristo estate – which is a multifunctional centre, incorporating a vineyard and winemaking, reception centre and a children’s park.

The tree lined entrance to the Castille

Here a close up of the castle, a beautiful Italian building, however somewhat deserted at this time of the year.

The underground wine bars!

This place is run by the Italians and not always above board, so we are told! (By our cousins)

Russ observing the wineries from the balcony. This definitely felt like we were back in Rome.

The rest of our days adventure included visiting Cousins (who fed Russell again with rabbit stew) and cooking dinner for our family and new friends!

We are certainly enjoying the return to an Indian summer.

Rubbish in Malta

This is a story about waste in Malta (as we have observed) – when we arrived in September I was horrified about the rubbish on the streets of this beautiful island!

Malta has a resident population of half a million people (and island that is 27 km long and 14.5 km wide – 316 square km).

On top of the residents it has 2.5 million visitors (tourists) per year.

No wonder rubbish is a problem!

There are no waste disposal units in the kitchen and the rubbish is in a variety of bags that one puts out for collection each day!

Estimated organic rubbish is 57% of the overall waste – new collections have been just introduced! Bearing in mind most houses are apartments or properties with no gardens or back yards.

White bags – Monday’s, Wednesday’s and Friday’s – all organic (food) rubbish on the street for collection.

Green bags – general rubbish – Monday’s Thursday’s and Saturday’s.

Recycle (only cans and plastic bottles) Tuesday only!

Glass (wine, beer and jars) only the 1st Friday of every month…this is a bit of a problem and we need to find the bottle bins in between.

There are doggy bins for dog poo! A series of bins that divide the recycling and general rubbish in numerous places around the towns!

Malta is doing its best, but still people throw their trash into vacant lots, in the streets and from the boats! I hope that all residents, visitors and boat people will embrace the need to take care of this beautiful island!

The rains have cleaned the streets, however we are guessing that the trash is now in the sparkling Mediterranean, only to be washed up on the beaches with the changing currents!

We need to embrace the fact that humans can save or destroy this island paradise!

Night time in the Capital – daytime in the sunshine

My story continues with a bit more adventure last night.

We headed back into Valletta with Lesley in the evening – dark by 6pm!

Up in the lift, after another Ferry ride, looking back at Three Cities under light. Warm pleasant evening.

In the last eight years I have stayed in Malta four times and not once have I been to Valletta at night. This is a must do. It is a lot quieter and the buildings are subtlety lit up.

From the Barrakka gardens looking out to the harbour entrance, from which Lesley will soon be sailing.

The fountain in the gardens

Walking towards the outdoor theatre, which was once a beautiful building bombed in WWII

The outside remains of the original theatre still encase the new one.

St Johns Co-Cathedral under lights!

Last ferry leaving to take us to our side of the Harbour at 7.15pm, time to bid Lesley bon voyage and head home after a fantastic day.

This morning was relaxed! And a lunch was planned, with cousins, at Birgu waterfront. The day calm and sunny!

We walked the 20 minutes to the gate, by which time the sweater was discarded! (And this was downhill)

A great three hour catch up with these beautiful people!

Russ getting his history lesson from Lino

Marcella, Sue, Jacqueline and Steven (the rose!)

And the girls! The lunch was great too!

Time for the visitors to head north on their bikes…

Great day for a ride! Felt a little jealous as we were on shanks pony (feet), up hill this time!

Bormla, with the American University across the inlet, looking very lush!

And after all the rain, the fountains are all out in force. The Three Cities are very picturesque in November!

This time of the year in Malta is beautiful, still warm with lots of sunshine and green areas. But especially the peace of uncrowded spaces! It will be very sad to leave (but not for a wee while yet)

And then we were three

Three kiwis again – Lesley (one of Russell’s work colleagues – both now retired!) joins the kiwi adventurers in Malta.

Russ and Sue on the ferry to meet Lesley off her cruise ship!

And here she is….having a little chat to one of the locals on our way back to the ferry to start our days adventures, across the harbour to the three old cities (and car waiting)

First stop however was our favourite coffee place is Birgu! Lesley wanted to do everything that the ship people wouldn’t be doing! (So she can go back with new work stories)

First stop was Marsaxlokk – the street markets, and fishing village in the south!

The sea was lapping over the promenade, however the predicted rainy day no where in sight (several layers of clothing removed already)

Statue of kids and animals waiting for dad to get home from the sea with fish for tea!

New versus old – Mr Whippy with the cathedral and bell tower in the background.

Back in the car and the kiwi sightseeing trip continues – through Pretty Bay and the container transfer-station port.

Around the bottom of the Island past all the refugee camps and the airport – then under the Airport (tunnel) to the Blue Grotto on the west coast.

Too rough to take a Luzzu (Boat) ride into the caves – in fact they haven’t been able to get out for eight days, due to the storms we have had passing through!

The sea still a combination of aqua and deep blue, even in its turmoil!

After lunch, at this west coast location, we headed further up the coast and took a drive by past the water desalination plant.

Due to the lack of mountains and rivers, water is precious here in Malta and this plant draws from the sea, removes the salt, and pipes the water to the island towns and cities (my cousins tell me for the south! They are North girls)

Next stop the Dingli Cliffs

Lesley, suffering more from vertigo than I do, did not feel a need to get out of the car and was happy to share this part of the adventure by photograph!

Back inland, and a must see for any visitor to Malta, to Mdina, the silent city on the hill, with views to die for even in a cloudy day.

The countryside looking very lush and green!

A special treat – we witnessed a traffic jam with horses and carts and lots of loud (and we assume) abusive verbal exchange, until one driver finally gave in and backed up!

We are all now back at the Kiwi Fgura flat for coffee and internet deciding if the weather (which is threatening to finally rain) will allow us an evening exploring Valletta, before Lesley leaps back on her cruise ship and sails into the sunset.

R & M Friday

Still a little damp and the maintenance jobs continue!

The damp sky allowing the sun to peek through from time to time

The green top is back out for the morning coffee visit.

Business as usual on the streets of Birgu!

Off in the car (now sporting it’s licence label) to the Cat charity shop to stock up on English books before we venture further to another non English country!

Sleeping peacefully in his basket in the middle of the shop just to prove our donations are hitting the spot!

A quick loo stop at St Thomas bay and the surf is rolling in again! Finally I understand why I have seen surfing advertised here!

From the Deep South we headed north to meet Marcella (cousin) who was taking us looking for car parts (for our old merc back home)

Arrived a bit early at the designated meeting point – San Anton Gardens and thought we would go and see if the rain, over the last few weeks, had livened them up. (Last visit rather dusty and all plants brown)

And it sure has – abundant marigolds.

Sue looking like a hobbit in the tree roots! There was a lot more tree above this picture.

Russ framed by Silk Floss Trees from South America.

And the wildlife a lot more perky in the cooler weather

Peacocks

A turtle pond full of turtles of varying sizes – these guys owning the centre waterfall monument.

The black Swan pool, although rather camera shy!

Met up with Marcella and set off on the car part hunt! A modem of success, we purchased a replacement button for the handbrake ( at the huge cost of €1.70).

From here a quick pastizzi stop for a lunch snack and to cousin Charlottes, who very kindly repaired my nails (we do this when on holiday!)

Very spoiled! Russ took himself off for a walk while all this girl stuff was going on.

A successful day all round and on a positive note it’s beer and hamburgers for Friday dinner!

Carless – walking in the rain

Whilst waiting for the licence label to arrive in the post, it is best not to drive!

Russ and Sue headed off to Bormla, bank, post office and other life stuff, clad in sweaters and rain jackets

Malta is looking very green (and red) after all this rain.

We purchased a post box to send some of our summer stuff home, before we depart for colder temperatures, and ordered a new Visa card (as mine appears to have a faulty chip). In Oslo’s cashless society we will need to have an operational card.

Flowers are blooming as the humidity increases – and the two wandering Kiwis we’re getting very warm inside their gortex jackets!

We stopped for a coffee at our regular Rouge Cafe and then decided to catch the bus back up the hill.

This is where the excitement begins. With 20 minutes to wait, we perched on the yellow seat – advised by a large elderly man at one end to avoid the centre as it was wet – very kind of him.

Russ and Sue quietly perusing our phones reading the news from home, a couple of other men standing to the side, all avoiding the rain.

Next thing I hear a loud thud and the man next to me has rolled sideways and was out cold, eyes rolling and in danger of falling off the seat onto the pavement. Russ and I leapt up and tried to hold him (he was very big) and by this time grey and not conscious. I grabbed another Maltese man who started yelling, one on phone ringing ambulance, and police I think. The episode got decidedly worse and he slid onto the ground and more yelling and more people and Russ still trying to hold him up (after me doing all the carrying for the last eight weeks I did not want Russ to fracture his back again). This was very traumatic and we thought he was actually going to die before help arrived! 10 minutes later the bus turned up and everyone just started getting on it!

One Maltese man was holding this guy and it looked like he was leaving too – so Russ and I did not get on the bus. However, then two police came running and took over so, at the last minute, we left with everyone else! By this time the man was roaring like a bear – back on the seat but looking like at any moment he would collapse again.

We felt rather in shock and realised that we do not know the emergency number here in Malta.

Our hearts have stopped racing, as we have now completed our shopping trip and back at home before the rain sets in again.

On a brighter note – the succulents are flowering

And our housewarming present (from Rols), on our initial arrival in Malta has come back to life! This ones for you Trudi!

Daily life in Malta is full of surprises – some that we would rather not be subject to. Russ is now resting and I’m about to follow suit!

Great Duck Weather

Day two back in Malta and the Rain has followed us, but at least we have a car!

We dropped Julie to Kevin’s in readiness to fly off today and went into town to do some business stuff! All went very smoothly as the rain got heavier and heavier.

Feeling very much like a coffee and something to eat, by 11.30, we headed to a cafe we knew had a nice indoor area.

Rivers running down the roads and streets! (On the up side providing the car with a much needed rinse)

The breakfast menu finished at midday and at 11.55am we ordered our full cooked English breakfast and a large cappuccino for €9 (the first bacon and eggs I have had since leaving NZ)

Russ has had a change from the green sweater today and is sporting his Orange jacket (that his workmates gave him for his leaving present). Definitely brightening up a dull day!

Still raining heavily (I seriously didn’t think it rained this much in Malta – just showing it’s human side!), we thought we would pop in and see my cousin Anna! Who was at home and we had a great catch up with her.

No sign of the wet abating, we thought we better head home before the work traffic. I must say Maltese drivers are much more cautious in the wet weather!

We took a little detour to Senglea to see our favourite town.

Two massive tourist ships in for the day. Earlier on our travels, we had seen a hop on hop off bus (with top deck open) quite full with the passengers all sightseeing with umbrellas up! How miserable! Their impression of this beautiful island may not be as we know it – a day in the rain is not too much fun!

Across in the grand harbour (Vittoriosa side) the big boys are resting for the off season.

Back to our home in Figura to snaffle a car park, before the evening shoppers come out (all things opening again at 4pm after siesta), and here we are hunkered down for the evening – just two Kiwi wanderers left to tell the tale!