Oslo – a city of dreams

This city has to be one of the most beautiful cities I have visited so far. It has everything you could wish for, even in winter!

A grey morning greeted us, but no wind or rain so we set off on foot, on our self guided tour, with a list of must sees from Kat (George’s girlfriend and our native Norwegian).

This is a day of many sights and stories, so here goes…

We headed downtown to our first destination, window shopping on the way.

Colourful window displays, the day no longer grey!

Spare parts for our retro bikes back home (Sue and Don!)

Trudi and Kevin, Russ has found your next destination for your new found hobby (moving on from Malta)

Russ is still searching for the perfect suit (must not be a dark colour)…took a rain check on this one however.

Traditional Norwegian dress style, beautiful but possibly not for Russ either.

First destination reached..

The Old Oslo cathedral at the start of Karl Johans Gate (street), which continues from this point to the Parliament buildings.

Completed in 1866 and joined two separate street so Karl Johans Gate now runs from the Cathedral to the Oslo Palace through the city.

Our tour guide (and google) then had us heading to the Oslo Grand Central Station.

The Grand Station Hotel next to where we arrived in the dark last night.

A much needed information centre was within, where we then collected a physical map to follow to our recommended landmarks.

Next stop – the Opera House on the Oslo seafront.

One of the many attractions, on our planned walking tour, outside the must sees, a bronze statue of a lion. But I was actually capturing this eight seater baby buggy. We assumed it was a childcare vehicle and this poor woman did not actually have eight babies!

We climbed to the top of the Opera house…weather still being kind to us.

This monument is a modern sculpture by an Italian artist, made of stainless steel and glass, sitting atop an anchored concrete platform. It turns with the tides and winds and changes colour depending on light reflection. Quite spectacular.

Up top, Russ making new friends with this very large seagull (possibly Jonathan).

Sue puffed up with the fiords in the background.

Leaving the opera house views behind us we followed the waterfront towards Akershus Festning.

On the way….

Through an area called Salt – bars, entertainment and indoor saunas ( rather quiet at this time of the year)

However, if you have a spare shirt, you can’t quite bear to throw out, you can hang it here and visit it when you feel the need.

Akershus fortress, located in the heart of the city. It’s history includes; royal residence, dramatic military events, prison facilities and is currently the temporary seat of the prime minister of Norway (so Wikipedia tells me)

Adjacent is the military museum and base.

Changing of the guards at midday – entrance to the castle.

The treelined cobbled streets leading to the castle inside the fortress walls.

From the upper walls of the fort (and in the harbour) this US Naval helicopter carrier ship, is moored and heavily guarded.

A little footsore from the cobblestones, we left the fort and headed to the next scheduled stop.

Franklin D Roosevelt and Russ needing a little sit down (Russ did not realise that he was adopting Franklins pose)

Colours of autumn/winter on this path to City hall square.

Female statues and the city hall behind.

This beauty close up and a little too personal.

Onwards, in hunt of sustenance (at not too exhorbitant prices) we stumbled on…

The Nobel Peace Centre (a few winter renovations underway) and is a showcase for the Nobel peace prize and the ideals it represents. The award ceremonies are held in the Oslo city hall (pictured earlier), annually in December.

Still no food, next stop…

Aker Brygge, shopping, eating, commercial and apartment waterfront development. The two seaward sections connected with bridges over waterways.

Or stilts to cross – one of the many sculptures in this area.

Horsemen at edge of the sea (and Christmas decorations going up)

Art piece of Snow White and the seven dwarfs cake!

A motorbike inspired reindeer. About 8 foot tall.

And Jill this ones for you – red shoes, for a moment there I thought you were joining us in Norway!

Hunger and thirst sated at a very reasonable cafe somewhere in this area, we decided it was time to turn back towards our Oslo home.

The adventures not over yet…there’s more.

Google took us through another square, and large area of a Christmas wonderland being set up in readiness for opening tomorrow. Stalls, lights, rides, and everything Christmas.

Overlooked by a very Christmas decorated Grand Hotel (not to be confused with the earlier Grand Station Hotel – we were on the other side of town!)

Sue has found her reindeer for the second time today! One day – a walking talking one will appear. A dream to yet fulfill.

Time was marching on and so were the wandering Kiwis.

Along a diverse street of architecture to what we had seen all day…

Frednsborgveien street – with quaint wooden brightly coloured houses

And Damstredet (street). It felt like we had just been transported to a totally different town… for a moment.

Then this happened – from apartments and beautiful built up areas to..

Kuba Park – with Rapids!

An old Grain Silo converted into student accommodation (another change in architectural style)

Part of the rapids bursting through a bridge – I can see a wolfs face in the water!

From above some very fearless artists have decorated this bridge.

Russ with the street art in the rock walls

And finally, if you are still reading today’s adventures..

One last view of this beautiful park that continues winding up (we didn’t as a short lie down was needed before we are out to dinner)

What a wonderful place!

Plane hopping to Norway

5am start, locked and loaded and one last dose of the Maltese Island Sunrise promising another sunny warm winters day.

Costa Coffee after depositing bags, and a very easy check-in. Rather warm in our winter woollies! (But not for long)

Plane was delayed leaving by an hour just to give me a little more time to get used to the fact I’m leaving (even though I was sitting in the plane)

Saying goodbye from the skies above Malta!

Air Malta leg room has shrunk and luckily the back row was free, so Russ could fit!

Lots of coughing and spluttering on plane so we donned the face masks

Hiding in my corner – keeping everyone’s germs away!

Landed to a very quiet Munich airport and, with three hours to wait, Russ thought it would be a good opportunity to have a stretch out!

Sue went for a wander and Russ minded the bags!

Will be boarding next hop to Oslo, Norway, in less than an hour.

It’s not where you end up it’s all about the Journey!

Malta says Stay!

Bluebird sky this morning for business trip to Valletta and clean up day.

Our time in Malta is coming to an end but not before one last ferry trip to the capital, haircut for Russell, and Lunch at our favourite restaurant.

Malta in winter – lunch by the sea. (And a quiet little rum and coke)

This chocolate mastiff enjoying the winter sunshine as well.

Having cleaned the flat as best we can, and packed ready for an early start tomorrow morning, it is rest time for Russ and we have our last supper with our family tonight!

Cheers to our life (friends and family) and adventures of the last two and a half months. The love and laughter, we have shared, will be forever in our hearts, until we return and do it all over again.

Every minute counts

Dropped the visitors to the airport this morning and we are two again.

One last visit to our favourite cafe, Cafe Du Brazil, in Birgu.

Russ savouring the moment.

Home to clean and start packing. Too much to pack and a quick trip to the post office before closing at 1pm.

Bormla in the sunshine. No time to waste, back to the apartment and realised I had forgotten to take the key! Locked out. Then drove to Kevin’s to collect spare and a quick look at their planted deck!

Home again to hang out more washing and then the call to go meet Charlotte and Marcella (cousins) to say goodbye!

I will miss these beautiful ladies!

Back home to clean, and repack, before another busy day of chores before we leave my 2nd homeland, early on Wednesday morning.

Malta’s Grand Canyon!

After a rather late night, and the weather looking mixed with thunderstorms and brighter patches, we left around 10ish in search of the ‘hole in the ground’ where an entire town used to be….

Tal-Maqluba, it is legended, was a town in the 1300’s which housed a community who had turned their back on God. Except for one woman, who was told to advise her villagers to change their ways! Ignoring this advice, the angels were sent to rip this village out by its roots and deposit it out to sea off the coast from the blue grotto! (Where a circular island stands today)

What remains is an enormous circular hole, with only a church perched on its edge.

St Matthews church, Tal-Maqluba on the edge of the hole near the town of Qrendi.

We began the descent into the hole!

Definitely a path less travelled.

Down and down until the views opened up (or rather down)

The cliff faces into the hole (we could not see the bottom)

We imagined below sea level!

Russ and Russell taking a breather before the climb out.

On the track up with the bell tower of the church in sight.

The almost sheer cliff faces of the circular hole.

We affectionately named this site the ‘Maltese Grand Canyon’ – certainly a path less travelled and not for the faint hearted or vertigo sensitive ( I seem to be improving in this trait)

So the question is ‘do you believe the legend?’ Or the more recent scientific explanation of a massive sink hole? Either way it is a unique formation and within its cylindrical depression houses its own (very green) eco system!

Our visitors wanted to take another trip to Valletta and, as the rain was now getting heavier, I drove. Only to get caught in traffic jams and torrential rain! A drive around the outside sufficed and we then headed back to Birgu for lunch.

The band club inside and warm! Seemed a good day to settle in for the afternoon!

Fantastic meals, we all chose seafood (mine the calamari version)

Mid afternoon drive (last tour for our visitors) included:

Kalkara, Fort Rinella, Malta film studios and Smart City and its evirons!

Malta film Studios – Universal studios cannot hold a torch to this seaside location!

And with Russ (number one) now dozing in the front seat, Malta is not complete without a visit to the Garjola gardens on Sengleas point.

And for me, from here, one last view of the Giraffe Crane, still lording it over the dockside port!

The Malta adventure is coming to an end for the visitors and the Kiwi-Maltese.

Adventures in the Rain

So Malta has now decided to remind me that it may be time to head to the Southern Hemisphere for summer.

At 8am thunderstorms heading our way.

While the rest of the team were breakfasting, I went to the bank (on foot) only to get drenched when the heavens opened.

Upon my return, it had cleared and looked promising for our morning excursion to Mdina (4th visit for Russ and Sue).

Arriving to Mdina, in the sunshine, first stop Rabat for coffee.

Fine specimen of motorcycling on the streets of Rabat.

Sue and Wendy exploring the residential areas.

After refreshment, sitting in the sunshine and stripping off some clothing layers, we made our way through the town of Rabat towards Mdina.

We came across some large villas with very large gardens (for Malta) in Rabat. (This one has a pool under the balcony).

Very lush garden (villa hidden) – this street is obviously one of wealth.

The thunder clouds , by this time, had rolled back in and the weather was looking decidedly ominous. However, we chose to go underground to the Mdina dungeons (Malta’s museum of crime and punishment). This is where the inquisitors meted our punishment to the heretics.

This sign explains this era of Maltese history, where horrific torture was undertaken by the inquisitors from the 1500’s until Napoleon Bonaparte put a stop to it 2000 years later.

Shaming masks locked on to offenders as a form of torture.

Another torture process – hanging upside down.

Suspended Iron maiden where the heretics were imprisoned. (Until death)

Stretching on spiked rollers and there were many more re-inactments of torture processes – even more gruesome than shown here. This is enough to share for one day!

By the time we surfaced, the storm was in full force, so after a quick look in the glass shops, we sheltered in a cafe for a bite to eat.

As the weather did not seem to be easing, we made a dash to the exit with one last shop for Wendy near the gate.

Russ and I were waiting outside (the shop) and a poor horse (with cart and driver) looked very miserable. I said to the driver “even your horse looks cold”. He scowled at me (thinking I had said “hot” – HOT horses are a sore point with these guys, as a horse dropped dead from the heat over summer and they are trying to ban this activity)

These horse and carts are a tourist operation. The man then snapped at me “are you hot?”, which was silly question, as I was obviously cold! I said “no, I’m cold” – he then told me “you are talking from your arse!” (Two times). Very rude and nasty, and the scowl continued!

Time to make a run for the car and head home for the afternoon to get out of the rain!

AND Go the All Blacks!

Glorious Gozo

Early start this morning to head north and spend the day in Gozo with our visitors.

On the ferry, car safely tucked in the hold.

Off on Gozo and straight into Victoria, to browse before everything closed at midday.

We secured a car park near the Citadel for a mere €1.75 (for as long as we liked)

Wandered around Victoria for about an hour – the street markets and my favourite charity shop!

St George church with some action – maybe the Christmas bunting is going up!

A visit to the craft village for Wendy to do a spot of shopping.

Not for sale but I found a display of all the original glass bottles used in Malta islands, before the introduction of cans and plastic.

Then off to Xlendi Bay for lunch…

Still, glassy and very hot! Certainly wished we had brought the togs!

A delicious lunch (albeit leisurely as about an hours wait). But what a fabulous place to wait!

A Morris Cowley sunning it in Xlendi.

One more planned stop – the basilica in the middle of nowhere on the cliffs overlooking Xlendi – Ta Pinu, Roman Catholic Church dedicated to the blessed virgin of Ta Pinu. Connected to miraculous healings in its history.

The bridge to the church

The mosaic walls encompassing the courtyard

Four of these walls, each with several parts dedicated to towns of Gozo and depicting nativity scenes (and other religious happenings).

Inside the basilica – equally ornate and sculpted. With very few people, this visit was very peaceful and relaxing.

The afternoon was getting on and we decided to head back to cross on the ferry before dark.

Luckily, after a few roadworks diversions, we made the 4.15 ferry and were on the road in Malta by 5pm, just as the sun was setting.

Home by 6.30pm, not at all hungry and in need of a cool beer and shower.

Malta is still willing me to stay with this perfect weather!

Two kiwis plus two more wanderers

Russell’s friends from UK arrived today at midday, an ex Kiwi (also named Russell) and Wendy from Barbados.

This morning first thing we revisited Senglea.

Navy ships in port this morning on another beautiful day.

Russ perusing the harbour entrance.

We had woken our concert pianist friend Carmen, before our walk, and headed back to collect her for a coffee before making tracks to the airport.

Nice time catching up with our new friend!

After collecting the visitors and depositing the bags (and a couple of layers of their English clothes) the destination of choice, for the afternoon, was Valletta.

Off to the ferry (again) and up to the upper barakka gardens!

Sue, Wendy and Russ in front of the fountain.

Russell and Russ and the grand Master Valletta.

A stroll from top to bottom of Merchant street.

Past the grand masters palace and around the waterfront back to the ferry and home again.

Our visitors had an early start today and a quiet evening planned!

Ready for new adventures tomorrow!

And then there is One

Malta is willing me to stay, after an overnight thunderstorm (street and car wash) this morning dawned clear and sunny.

Russell and Kevin had a date with Bingo up North and I had a social day planned with friends and cousins.

No excuse to drive the car, I walked the 30 minutes to the ferry to take me to Valletta.

As soon as we rounded the point of Senglea, I could see it was going to be a busy time in Valletta. Four cruise ships in today!! One even had to moor on our side of the harbour.

Met with Charles at the Museum cafe for our morning coffee. We swapped holiday stories. Followed by a little wander around the city (by now shoulder to shoulder with the boat tours).

I headed back (on ferry again) to the Birgu side for my next social catch up with cousins.

A warm 23 degrees I am sitting in the shade waiting for their arrival

Very pleasant and peaceful after the madness of Valletta.

Ship Anchors at the entrance to the Birgu port soaking up the sun, while I sat in the tree shade.

Another coffee and another catch up and finally home (mid afternoon) for a quiet evening in.

The gamblers came home empty handed, so I guess that means we are not buying our seaside appartment!

We have more friends from England joining us for a four days tomorrow – so a few more adventure days before we leave Malta next Wednesday.

The real cost of living

For the kiwi wanderers, and the other 2.5 million visitors to Malta, who marvel at the cheap food, clothing and entry prices to tourist attractions, spare a thought for the half a million people living here who keep this Island afloat!

The minimum wage is €4.25 (NZ$7.19) per hour. For a 40 hour week €170 (NZ$280) or €800 (NZ$1353) per month.

The average hourly rate for hospitality workers (if they are experienced) is €5-6 per hour. (NZ$8-11)

Healthcare workers €6.09 per hour. (NZ$11.00)

Average Rental properties, and these are usually apartments (if you’re lucky you have a lift) range from €400 (1bed) to €1200 (3 bed) per month. This also can be much higher (2-3 times) if you have sea views, the up market areas and close to the beaches. Average 2-3 bedroom is around NZ$1500-2500 per month. And if you want a house with a back yard this is a different story!

To buy a good house or apartment (2-3 bedrooms) it is area dependent andi what we saw 4 years ago for around €120,000 are now selling for €4-500,000 – from NZ$200,000 to close to a million!

Public Transport is very efficient – ferries always on time, buses usually on time, options of taxis an Uber’s.

Also the transport card system is very easy to use and top up online. Transport is reasonably priced and if you are over 60 very cheap to travel the island on buses and ferries!

Petrol for cars is expensive – works out about NZ$2.50 per litre unleaded. Car insurance and licensing on a par with New Zealand. Car prices Similar, just models and makes vary.

Walking is the best option – as carparking is scarce and the roads are very congested!

Food, healthy food, is well priced, fruit and vegetables fresh and a great variety!

Beer and wine are the same price in supermarkets and when you are out! Beer about the same as NZ and wine averages NZ$6 per bottle. However when you go to a bar or restaurant you still only pay NZ$2-2.50 got a beer or wine! It makes eating out even better.

While Malta is a fantastic tourist venue for its 2.5 million visitors per year (and very valuable income for Malta), spare a thought for the people who live and work here.

If they do not smile, maybe they are tired (or they don’t get paid enough to smile). If you receive fantastic service always leave a tip (remember this may be worth more than their wages). Do your best to take care of the small and overcrowded environment (there are plenty of bins). And always be gracious and kind.

Last time I was here for an extended period, I came away feeling, while many of the Maltese people are not that rich in assets, they are very rich in life and family! And they have hearts of gold!