My story continues with a bit more adventure last night.

We headed back into Valletta with Lesley in the evening – dark by 6pm!

Up in the lift, after another Ferry ride, looking back at Three Cities under light. Warm pleasant evening.

In the last eight years I have stayed in Malta four times and not once have I been to Valletta at night. This is a must do. It is a lot quieter and the buildings are subtlety lit up.

From the Barrakka gardens looking out to the harbour entrance, from which Lesley will soon be sailing.

The fountain in the gardens

Walking towards the outdoor theatre, which was once a beautiful building bombed in WWII

The outside remains of the original theatre still encase the new one.

St Johns Co-Cathedral under lights!

Last ferry leaving to take us to our side of the Harbour at 7.15pm, time to bid Lesley bon voyage and head home after a fantastic day.

This morning was relaxed! And a lunch was planned, with cousins, at Birgu waterfront. The day calm and sunny!

We walked the 20 minutes to the gate, by which time the sweater was discarded! (And this was downhill)

A great three hour catch up with these beautiful people!

Russ getting his history lesson from Lino

Marcella, Sue, Jacqueline and Steven (the rose!)

And the girls! The lunch was great too!

Time for the visitors to head north on their bikes…

Great day for a ride! Felt a little jealous as we were on shanks pony (feet), up hill this time!

Bormla, with the American University across the inlet, looking very lush!

And after all the rain, the fountains are all out in force. The Three Cities are very picturesque in November!

This time of the year in Malta is beautiful, still warm with lots of sunshine and green areas. But especially the peace of uncrowded spaces! It will be very sad to leave (but not for a wee while yet)

Three kiwis again – Lesley (one of Russell’s work colleagues – both now retired!) joins the kiwi adventurers in Malta.

Russ and Sue on the ferry to meet Lesley off her cruise ship!

And here she is….having a little chat to one of the locals on our way back to the ferry to start our days adventures, across the harbour to the three old cities (and car waiting)

First stop however was our favourite coffee place is Birgu! Lesley wanted to do everything that the ship people wouldn’t be doing! (So she can go back with new work stories)

First stop was Marsaxlokk – the street markets, and fishing village in the south!

The sea was lapping over the promenade, however the predicted rainy day no where in sight (several layers of clothing removed already)

Statue of kids and animals waiting for dad to get home from the sea with fish for tea!

New versus old – Mr Whippy with the cathedral and bell tower in the background.

Back in the car and the kiwi sightseeing trip continues – through Pretty Bay and the container transfer-station port.

Around the bottom of the Island past all the refugee camps and the airport – then under the Airport (tunnel) to the Blue Grotto on the west coast.

Too rough to take a Luzzu (Boat) ride into the caves – in fact they haven’t been able to get out for eight days, due to the storms we have had passing through!

The sea still a combination of aqua and deep blue, even in its turmoil!

After lunch, at this west coast location, we headed further up the coast and took a drive by past the water desalination plant.

Due to the lack of mountains and rivers, water is precious here in Malta and this plant draws from the sea, removes the salt, and pipes the water to the island towns and cities (my cousins tell me for the south! They are North girls)

Next stop the Dingli Cliffs

Lesley, suffering more from vertigo than I do, did not feel a need to get out of the car and was happy to share this part of the adventure by photograph!

Back inland, and a must see for any visitor to Malta, to Mdina, the silent city on the hill, with views to die for even in a cloudy day.

The countryside looking very lush and green!

A special treat – we witnessed a traffic jam with horses and carts and lots of loud (and we assume) abusive verbal exchange, until one driver finally gave in and backed up!

We are all now back at the Kiwi Fgura flat for coffee and internet deciding if the weather (which is threatening to finally rain) will allow us an evening exploring Valletta, before Lesley leaps back on her cruise ship and sails into the sunset.

Still a little damp and the maintenance jobs continue!

The damp sky allowing the sun to peek through from time to time

The green top is back out for the morning coffee visit.

Business as usual on the streets of Birgu!

Off in the car (now sporting it’s licence label) to the Cat charity shop to stock up on English books before we venture further to another non English country!

Sleeping peacefully in his basket in the middle of the shop just to prove our donations are hitting the spot!

A quick loo stop at St Thomas bay and the surf is rolling in again! Finally I understand why I have seen surfing advertised here!

From the Deep South we headed north to meet Marcella (cousin) who was taking us looking for car parts (for our old merc back home)

Arrived a bit early at the designated meeting point – San Anton Gardens and thought we would go and see if the rain, over the last few weeks, had livened them up. (Last visit rather dusty and all plants brown)

And it sure has – abundant marigolds.

Sue looking like a hobbit in the tree roots! There was a lot more tree above this picture.

Russ framed by Silk Floss Trees from South America.

And the wildlife a lot more perky in the cooler weather

Peacocks

A turtle pond full of turtles of varying sizes – these guys owning the centre waterfall monument.

The black Swan pool, although rather camera shy!

Met up with Marcella and set off on the car part hunt! A modem of success, we purchased a replacement button for the handbrake ( at the huge cost of €1.70).

From here a quick pastizzi stop for a lunch snack and to cousin Charlottes, who very kindly repaired my nails (we do this when on holiday!)

Very spoiled! Russ took himself off for a walk while all this girl stuff was going on.

A successful day all round and on a positive note it’s beer and hamburgers for Friday dinner!

Whilst waiting for the licence label to arrive in the post, it is best not to drive!

Russ and Sue headed off to Bormla, bank, post office and other life stuff, clad in sweaters and rain jackets

Malta is looking very green (and red) after all this rain.

We purchased a post box to send some of our summer stuff home, before we depart for colder temperatures, and ordered a new Visa card (as mine appears to have a faulty chip). In Oslo’s cashless society we will need to have an operational card.

Flowers are blooming as the humidity increases – and the two wandering Kiwis we’re getting very warm inside their gortex jackets!

We stopped for a coffee at our regular Rouge Cafe and then decided to catch the bus back up the hill.

This is where the excitement begins. With 20 minutes to wait, we perched on the yellow seat – advised by a large elderly man at one end to avoid the centre as it was wet – very kind of him.

Russ and Sue quietly perusing our phones reading the news from home, a couple of other men standing to the side, all avoiding the rain.

Next thing I hear a loud thud and the man next to me has rolled sideways and was out cold, eyes rolling and in danger of falling off the seat onto the pavement. Russ and I leapt up and tried to hold him (he was very big) and by this time grey and not conscious. I grabbed another Maltese man who started yelling, one on phone ringing ambulance, and police I think. The episode got decidedly worse and he slid onto the ground and more yelling and more people and Russ still trying to hold him up (after me doing all the carrying for the last eight weeks I did not want Russ to fracture his back again). This was very traumatic and we thought he was actually going to die before help arrived! 10 minutes later the bus turned up and everyone just started getting on it!

One Maltese man was holding this guy and it looked like he was leaving too – so Russ and I did not get on the bus. However, then two police came running and took over so, at the last minute, we left with everyone else! By this time the man was roaring like a bear – back on the seat but looking like at any moment he would collapse again.

We felt rather in shock and realised that we do not know the emergency number here in Malta.

Our hearts have stopped racing, as we have now completed our shopping trip and back at home before the rain sets in again.

On a brighter note – the succulents are flowering

And our housewarming present (from Rols), on our initial arrival in Malta has come back to life! This ones for you Trudi!

Daily life in Malta is full of surprises – some that we would rather not be subject to. Russ is now resting and I’m about to follow suit!

Day two back in Malta and the Rain has followed us, but at least we have a car!

We dropped Julie to Kevin’s in readiness to fly off today and went into town to do some business stuff! All went very smoothly as the rain got heavier and heavier.

Feeling very much like a coffee and something to eat, by 11.30, we headed to a cafe we knew had a nice indoor area.

Rivers running down the roads and streets! (On the up side providing the car with a much needed rinse)

The breakfast menu finished at midday and at 11.55am we ordered our full cooked English breakfast and a large cappuccino for €9 (the first bacon and eggs I have had since leaving NZ)

Russ has had a change from the green sweater today and is sporting his Orange jacket (that his workmates gave him for his leaving present). Definitely brightening up a dull day!

Still raining heavily (I seriously didn’t think it rained this much in Malta – just showing it’s human side!), we thought we would pop in and see my cousin Anna! Who was at home and we had a great catch up with her.

No sign of the wet abating, we thought we better head home before the work traffic. I must say Maltese drivers are much more cautious in the wet weather!

We took a little detour to Senglea to see our favourite town.

Two massive tourist ships in for the day. Earlier on our travels, we had seen a hop on hop off bus (with top deck open) quite full with the passengers all sightseeing with umbrellas up! How miserable! Their impression of this beautiful island may not be as we know it – a day in the rain is not too much fun!

Across in the grand harbour (Vittoriosa side) the big boys are resting for the off season.

Back to our home in Figura to snaffle a car park, before the evening shoppers come out (all things opening again at 4pm after siesta), and here we are hunkered down for the evening – just two Kiwi wanderers left to tell the tale!

As my story yesterday ended with a question, the answer is YES we did make it home to Malta, with a rush through the airport and onto a plane in gale force winds and torrential rain.

After a rather scary (and bumpy) take off, an hour late we made it back to a much calmer Malta in time for dinner!

We have two more travelling kiwis to spend the day with before they head off to their next adventure! (Julie and Pam)

This morning we went to the street market in Birgu, now somewhat smaller in the winter months

Julie really enjoyed the fruit and vege stalls!

And a very smelly street of fresh (?) fish. Octopus and Lampuki!

We then headed up to Mdina (the silent city), a must see before they leave. Outside the tourist time (summer) it was very pleasant!

Standing outside the walls and still wearing shorts on this winters day.

Without the crowds we had a chance to see some of the artwork in houses of the knights.

These donkeys are following me from Italy!

Antique clock and red doors!

The horses are coping with their cooler workdays, carting tourists around the town.

Russ is still wearing his green sweater!

And Julie decided that she certainly has some Maltese genes – the doors are just her size!

Blue skies and then off to Rabat so Julie and Pam could visit the St Paul’s cathedral catacombes, which were converted to air raid shelters in WWII

Sue and Russ wandered around St Paul’s square while the girls went underground.

Found this monument at the back of the church. Which is a memorial from some seamen who encountered St Paul during his sojourn here and supported him on his to Rome, where he was ultimately executed by Caesar!

The inscription in English from the seamen!

This memorial monument of St Paul in the square in Rabat!

We are off to meet Kevin and Rols for dinner for the girls last night! I have to say it is quite a relief to have a car again (giving the feet a rest) and to see the sunshine!

Today is our last day in Amalfi coast and the weather gods are telling us it’s time to leave …,

Ten days ago we were greeted with this

Today the tide had turned

Day one our beautiful coastline

No lounging on the beach today!

It’s been a great ride in the south of Italy and fulfilled all our expectations!

Golden sunsets!

Experiencing the history

Reaching new heights and breathtaking views

Rubbing shoulders with the locals!

Hunting out the best coffee places!

Artwork

Basilica’s

And so much more! These Amalfians are a friendly, helpful community. Crazy drivers, very fit and very loud! To live in a place for 10 days where no one speaks much English, our communication senses have heightened and our sign language works well!

We are sure to leave here with a much higher level of fitness and some wonderful memories of our adventures!

The wanderers legs (or more specifically calf muscles) are still feeling the pain. (From the hike)

The weekend storms are rolling in.

Our usually calm beach is a bit roughed up!

We took the long way up to town, to avoid the steps, although The steep cobbled road not too much easier!

The last of the summer bloom is in the stores, as it definitely feels like winter is on its way to this part of the world.

We decided to take the train to Cava dei Tirreni, which is one stop from our station (and the home to our Air BNB host). Getting to the station, however, meant three long flights of steps! Testing our endurance.

This town, in the hills, is a shopping Mecca

All the shops under long archways and everything you can imagine. It’s probably a good thing that my carryon bag is at its limit.

The Church square, every town has them, this one has mountains as it’s backdrop!

HOWEVER, Todays story is really about some of the transport options, on the coast, other than feet! Get ready for the ride….

Our very quiet electric train!

And motorbikes everywhere (most popular mode of transport and seem to be number one in the pecking order – everyone gives way to them!)

Easy to park!

Old ones…

Green ones….

Camouflaged ones….

Big and small ones..

And now we have the service vehicles

Ambulance – stationed at Vietri Sul Mare – ready for a quick getaway to the Amalfi cliff roads. (These are very busy vehicles)

The Carabinieri (police) – best not to ride in this one.

The local curtainsider delivery trucks, a little smaller than we see at home but no less threatening – they stop for no one!

And last but not least the buses and their very brave drivers who navigate the steep, narrow winding roads on the Amalfi coast!

Of course there are cars, in all shapes sizes and models!

Smart cars – a perfect vehicle for tight parking spaces.

The arrogant Audi drivers who park anywhere!

This fine specimen of a soft top VW

Vintage cars (you may have seen this one spied earlier on our travels)

Not to be forgotten the two wheeled pedal powered mode…

Designed for display only…

White walked tyres and a basket of flowers on this vintage model…

Mountain bikes (possibly the most suited to this terrain)….

And this old step through has seen better days.

And now some unique examples of motoring..

The lovely old camper van option – this one permanently parked at the railway station (freedom camping)

And the ‘piece de resistance’….

A three wheeled motorbike truck! It took me all day to catch one of these very popular vehicles. They zip all through the streets, carrying people, produce, children in the back, building supplies and really just about anything. This is definitely a must have if you live on the Amalfi Coast!

After yesterday’s hiking extravaganza, Jill took herself off to visit another village in the hills. Sue and Russ decided more exploration around our town (Vietri Sul Mare) would be enough to stretch the legs!

Up the hill again looking back at the agricultural plot, growing fruit and vegetables.

This orange tree up close, laden with fruit which will ripen over the next few months.

In search of a castle, we can see from the beach, we took a path less travelled (by tourists) into the local housing areas.

A large mosaic in the middle of a paved plaza, the ceramic designs are all through the town.

The local primary school – playgrounds limited!

We followed our noses out towards the edge of the cliffs and a lovely old lady gave us instructions (totally in Italian, but pointing worked) to a couple of things she thought we should see!

A clifttop plaza lookout, with views of the large villas perched high above the bay.

Another small plaza with a full model village (all made in ceramics)which included the colleseum, Roman forum, and Bethlehem! Amazing detail!

A little close up of part of the model where you can see the figurines. These are called ‘Presepi’, originally only made as nativity scenes, but now include other scenes of Italian life.

We found my castle on the Cliff – behind locked gates. From what we could gather it is a religious sanctuary, or the home of the head catholic hierarchy in the town.

Making our way back towards the town centre and our favourite coffee stop, we noticed an old man, in what looked like a small garage, making figurines out of clay! We started chatting, us in English, him in Italian and with lots of pointing we both understood each other somewhat!

He then took us through a locked door into another back garage, where he showed us the process of ceramic making. In this shed – he had the raw clay, hand made models (lots of donkeys and goats), his kiln for firing, his glazing urn, his paints and an array of his artwork!

He allowed me to take a picture of him, in his workshop, and I bought a small donkey and goat (we know these are handmade and not mass produced as the ones we see in the town appear to be) He also gave me a fish! This started a whole new ‘conversation’ on our mutual love of fishing!

Onwards and upwards we explored

Through tunnels connecting streets or not (sometimes a dead end and we had to backtrack)

And here we are at the heart of the town – church of St John the Baptiste.

Couldn’t resist another photo of the inside, with beautiful art and bright natural light.

Another of Italian peculiarities, the water fountains and in our town, of course ceramic!

Coffee break and a little more exploring to be had.

Italian policeman directing traffic (whilst talking on his mobile phone) at a five road intersection.

The mermaid in the main town plaza – guarding the path to the sea.

This very cute shop assistant, guarding the door to a ceramic shop. You wouldn’t think to leave without paying!

And finally…..

Russ beside the artwork outside the tourist information centre! Everything looking very green (including Russ as he only brought one sweater with him).

With only half an hour before midday shop closing time, we thought we better head to the supermarket store and grab the few things we needed!

Thankfully we did not need to negotiate these steps (with our slightly stiff legs)

Finally laden with our shopping we headed home for an afternoon siesta!

This guy already taking his, on a very comfortable motorbike seat!

The path less travelled, when not in a rush, unravels many treasures and peculiarities of culture and life of the people who live here. The reason we wander…