Every minute counts

Dropped the visitors to the airport this morning and we are two again.

One last visit to our favourite cafe, Cafe Du Brazil, in Birgu.

Russ savouring the moment.

Home to clean and start packing. Too much to pack and a quick trip to the post office before closing at 1pm.

Bormla in the sunshine. No time to waste, back to the apartment and realised I had forgotten to take the key! Locked out. Then drove to Kevin’s to collect spare and a quick look at their planted deck!

Home again to hang out more washing and then the call to go meet Charlotte and Marcella (cousins) to say goodbye!

I will miss these beautiful ladies!

Back home to clean, and repack, before another busy day of chores before we leave my 2nd homeland, early on Wednesday morning.

Malta’s Grand Canyon!

After a rather late night, and the weather looking mixed with thunderstorms and brighter patches, we left around 10ish in search of the ‘hole in the ground’ where an entire town used to be….

Tal-Maqluba, it is legended, was a town in the 1300’s which housed a community who had turned their back on God. Except for one woman, who was told to advise her villagers to change their ways! Ignoring this advice, the angels were sent to rip this village out by its roots and deposit it out to sea off the coast from the blue grotto! (Where a circular island stands today)

What remains is an enormous circular hole, with only a church perched on its edge.

St Matthews church, Tal-Maqluba on the edge of the hole near the town of Qrendi.

We began the descent into the hole!

Definitely a path less travelled.

Down and down until the views opened up (or rather down)

The cliff faces into the hole (we could not see the bottom)

We imagined below sea level!

Russ and Russell taking a breather before the climb out.

On the track up with the bell tower of the church in sight.

The almost sheer cliff faces of the circular hole.

We affectionately named this site the ‘Maltese Grand Canyon’ – certainly a path less travelled and not for the faint hearted or vertigo sensitive ( I seem to be improving in this trait)

So the question is ‘do you believe the legend?’ Or the more recent scientific explanation of a massive sink hole? Either way it is a unique formation and within its cylindrical depression houses its own (very green) eco system!

Our visitors wanted to take another trip to Valletta and, as the rain was now getting heavier, I drove. Only to get caught in traffic jams and torrential rain! A drive around the outside sufficed and we then headed back to Birgu for lunch.

The band club inside and warm! Seemed a good day to settle in for the afternoon!

Fantastic meals, we all chose seafood (mine the calamari version)

Mid afternoon drive (last tour for our visitors) included:

Kalkara, Fort Rinella, Malta film studios and Smart City and its evirons!

Malta film Studios – Universal studios cannot hold a torch to this seaside location!

And with Russ (number one) now dozing in the front seat, Malta is not complete without a visit to the Garjola gardens on Sengleas point.

And for me, from here, one last view of the Giraffe Crane, still lording it over the dockside port!

The Malta adventure is coming to an end for the visitors and the Kiwi-Maltese.

Adventures in the Rain

So Malta has now decided to remind me that it may be time to head to the Southern Hemisphere for summer.

At 8am thunderstorms heading our way.

While the rest of the team were breakfasting, I went to the bank (on foot) only to get drenched when the heavens opened.

Upon my return, it had cleared and looked promising for our morning excursion to Mdina (4th visit for Russ and Sue).

Arriving to Mdina, in the sunshine, first stop Rabat for coffee.

Fine specimen of motorcycling on the streets of Rabat.

Sue and Wendy exploring the residential areas.

After refreshment, sitting in the sunshine and stripping off some clothing layers, we made our way through the town of Rabat towards Mdina.

We came across some large villas with very large gardens (for Malta) in Rabat. (This one has a pool under the balcony).

Very lush garden (villa hidden) – this street is obviously one of wealth.

The thunder clouds , by this time, had rolled back in and the weather was looking decidedly ominous. However, we chose to go underground to the Mdina dungeons (Malta’s museum of crime and punishment). This is where the inquisitors meted our punishment to the heretics.

This sign explains this era of Maltese history, where horrific torture was undertaken by the inquisitors from the 1500’s until Napoleon Bonaparte put a stop to it 2000 years later.

Shaming masks locked on to offenders as a form of torture.

Another torture process – hanging upside down.

Suspended Iron maiden where the heretics were imprisoned. (Until death)

Stretching on spiked rollers and there were many more re-inactments of torture processes – even more gruesome than shown here. This is enough to share for one day!

By the time we surfaced, the storm was in full force, so after a quick look in the glass shops, we sheltered in a cafe for a bite to eat.

As the weather did not seem to be easing, we made a dash to the exit with one last shop for Wendy near the gate.

Russ and I were waiting outside (the shop) and a poor horse (with cart and driver) looked very miserable. I said to the driver “even your horse looks cold”. He scowled at me (thinking I had said “hot” – HOT horses are a sore point with these guys, as a horse dropped dead from the heat over summer and they are trying to ban this activity)

These horse and carts are a tourist operation. The man then snapped at me “are you hot?”, which was silly question, as I was obviously cold! I said “no, I’m cold” – he then told me “you are talking from your arse!” (Two times). Very rude and nasty, and the scowl continued!

Time to make a run for the car and head home for the afternoon to get out of the rain!

AND Go the All Blacks!

Glorious Gozo

Early start this morning to head north and spend the day in Gozo with our visitors.

On the ferry, car safely tucked in the hold.

Off on Gozo and straight into Victoria, to browse before everything closed at midday.

We secured a car park near the Citadel for a mere €1.75 (for as long as we liked)

Wandered around Victoria for about an hour – the street markets and my favourite charity shop!

St George church with some action – maybe the Christmas bunting is going up!

A visit to the craft village for Wendy to do a spot of shopping.

Not for sale but I found a display of all the original glass bottles used in Malta islands, before the introduction of cans and plastic.

Then off to Xlendi Bay for lunch…

Still, glassy and very hot! Certainly wished we had brought the togs!

A delicious lunch (albeit leisurely as about an hours wait). But what a fabulous place to wait!

A Morris Cowley sunning it in Xlendi.

One more planned stop – the basilica in the middle of nowhere on the cliffs overlooking Xlendi – Ta Pinu, Roman Catholic Church dedicated to the blessed virgin of Ta Pinu. Connected to miraculous healings in its history.

The bridge to the church

The mosaic walls encompassing the courtyard

Four of these walls, each with several parts dedicated to towns of Gozo and depicting nativity scenes (and other religious happenings).

Inside the basilica – equally ornate and sculpted. With very few people, this visit was very peaceful and relaxing.

The afternoon was getting on and we decided to head back to cross on the ferry before dark.

Luckily, after a few roadworks diversions, we made the 4.15 ferry and were on the road in Malta by 5pm, just as the sun was setting.

Home by 6.30pm, not at all hungry and in need of a cool beer and shower.

Malta is still willing me to stay with this perfect weather!

Two kiwis plus two more wanderers

Russell’s friends from UK arrived today at midday, an ex Kiwi (also named Russell) and Wendy from Barbados.

This morning first thing we revisited Senglea.

Navy ships in port this morning on another beautiful day.

Russ perusing the harbour entrance.

We had woken our concert pianist friend Carmen, before our walk, and headed back to collect her for a coffee before making tracks to the airport.

Nice time catching up with our new friend!

After collecting the visitors and depositing the bags (and a couple of layers of their English clothes) the destination of choice, for the afternoon, was Valletta.

Off to the ferry (again) and up to the upper barakka gardens!

Sue, Wendy and Russ in front of the fountain.

Russell and Russ and the grand Master Valletta.

A stroll from top to bottom of Merchant street.

Past the grand masters palace and around the waterfront back to the ferry and home again.

Our visitors had an early start today and a quiet evening planned!

Ready for new adventures tomorrow!

And then there is One

Malta is willing me to stay, after an overnight thunderstorm (street and car wash) this morning dawned clear and sunny.

Russell and Kevin had a date with Bingo up North and I had a social day planned with friends and cousins.

No excuse to drive the car, I walked the 30 minutes to the ferry to take me to Valletta.

As soon as we rounded the point of Senglea, I could see it was going to be a busy time in Valletta. Four cruise ships in today!! One even had to moor on our side of the harbour.

Met with Charles at the Museum cafe for our morning coffee. We swapped holiday stories. Followed by a little wander around the city (by now shoulder to shoulder with the boat tours).

I headed back (on ferry again) to the Birgu side for my next social catch up with cousins.

A warm 23 degrees I am sitting in the shade waiting for their arrival

Very pleasant and peaceful after the madness of Valletta.

Ship Anchors at the entrance to the Birgu port soaking up the sun, while I sat in the tree shade.

Another coffee and another catch up and finally home (mid afternoon) for a quiet evening in.

The gamblers came home empty handed, so I guess that means we are not buying our seaside appartment!

We have more friends from England joining us for a four days tomorrow – so a few more adventure days before we leave Malta next Wednesday.

The real cost of living

For the kiwi wanderers, and the other 2.5 million visitors to Malta, who marvel at the cheap food, clothing and entry prices to tourist attractions, spare a thought for the half a million people living here who keep this Island afloat!

The minimum wage is €4.25 (NZ$7.19) per hour. For a 40 hour week €170 (NZ$280) or €800 (NZ$1353) per month.

The average hourly rate for hospitality workers (if they are experienced) is €5-6 per hour. (NZ$8-11)

Healthcare workers €6.09 per hour. (NZ$11.00)

Average Rental properties, and these are usually apartments (if you’re lucky you have a lift) range from €400 (1bed) to €1200 (3 bed) per month. This also can be much higher (2-3 times) if you have sea views, the up market areas and close to the beaches. Average 2-3 bedroom is around NZ$1500-2500 per month. And if you want a house with a back yard this is a different story!

To buy a good house or apartment (2-3 bedrooms) it is area dependent andi what we saw 4 years ago for around €120,000 are now selling for €4-500,000 – from NZ$200,000 to close to a million!

Public Transport is very efficient – ferries always on time, buses usually on time, options of taxis an Uber’s.

Also the transport card system is very easy to use and top up online. Transport is reasonably priced and if you are over 60 very cheap to travel the island on buses and ferries!

Petrol for cars is expensive – works out about NZ$2.50 per litre unleaded. Car insurance and licensing on a par with New Zealand. Car prices Similar, just models and makes vary.

Walking is the best option – as carparking is scarce and the roads are very congested!

Food, healthy food, is well priced, fruit and vegetables fresh and a great variety!

Beer and wine are the same price in supermarkets and when you are out! Beer about the same as NZ and wine averages NZ$6 per bottle. However when you go to a bar or restaurant you still only pay NZ$2-2.50 got a beer or wine! It makes eating out even better.

While Malta is a fantastic tourist venue for its 2.5 million visitors per year (and very valuable income for Malta), spare a thought for the people who live and work here.

If they do not smile, maybe they are tired (or they don’t get paid enough to smile). If you receive fantastic service always leave a tip (remember this may be worth more than their wages). Do your best to take care of the small and overcrowded environment (there are plenty of bins). And always be gracious and kind.

Last time I was here for an extended period, I came away feeling, while many of the Maltese people are not that rich in assets, they are very rich in life and family! And they have hearts of gold!

Friends and Family

Out the door and off to Bormla this morning.

On the way to the car (the park is different every day) we passed a neighbour with his garage open and he invited us in…

This beautiful old Maltese bus and behind two vintage English buses.

Inside and Russ off for a ride!!

Business and coffee completed and, as Russ’s back is a little tender again, home for a lie down before heading to Valletta to meet Evelyn (a cousin) before we leave.

The most beautiful day, sunshine and no wind.

The ice cream cyclist drumming up business with the hot people waiting for the ferry.

Sue back in shorts again and the water feature trickling away.

Boats moored on the inlet – this 50m cat in front of the old Bormla docks (yet to be restored and the next stage of the American University)

Over the grand harbour and up to the Upper barakka gardens…

I never get tired of this view! Up high, blue skies, blue seas, Valletta and boats!

A nice hour with Evelyn and back to collect the car and head north to Marcella’s for dinner with Lino, Steve and Jaclyn. Sitting on the deck, at her 4th floor apartment, looking at the sea.

Life for the wanderers just gets better and better!

Off the beaten track again!

Russ and Kev went to the hypogeum this morning (catacombs) and I went grocery shopping

And persused the local stores! Red shoes Jill!

Russ and I then took off in search of some untourist sights. This took us to Hal-ghaxaq – a town in the south!

Very old and small doorways!

Crooked doors! Looks like it is actually open.

The locals sunning themselves ignoring the wanderers!

This plaque on a wall dating back to 1681!

And the reason for the visit!

The shell house – the owner decorated his house with shells, starting in 1898 and completed in 1901. He then ran it as a bar and leading up to its completion, he was a seaman who collected the shells from all around the Mediterranean and the Arab coast.

We then headed to the Monte Cristo estate – which is a multifunctional centre, incorporating a vineyard and winemaking, reception centre and a children’s park.

The tree lined entrance to the Castille

Here a close up of the castle, a beautiful Italian building, however somewhat deserted at this time of the year.

The underground wine bars!

This place is run by the Italians and not always above board, so we are told! (By our cousins)

Russ observing the wineries from the balcony. This definitely felt like we were back in Rome.

The rest of our days adventure included visiting Cousins (who fed Russell again with rabbit stew) and cooking dinner for our family and new friends!

We are certainly enjoying the return to an Indian summer.

Rubbish in Malta

This is a story about waste in Malta (as we have observed) – when we arrived in September I was horrified about the rubbish on the streets of this beautiful island!

Malta has a resident population of half a million people (and island that is 27 km long and 14.5 km wide – 316 square km).

On top of the residents it has 2.5 million visitors (tourists) per year.

No wonder rubbish is a problem!

There are no waste disposal units in the kitchen and the rubbish is in a variety of bags that one puts out for collection each day!

Estimated organic rubbish is 57% of the overall waste – new collections have been just introduced! Bearing in mind most houses are apartments or properties with no gardens or back yards.

White bags – Monday’s, Wednesday’s and Friday’s – all organic (food) rubbish on the street for collection.

Green bags – general rubbish – Monday’s Thursday’s and Saturday’s.

Recycle (only cans and plastic bottles) Tuesday only!

Glass (wine, beer and jars) only the 1st Friday of every month…this is a bit of a problem and we need to find the bottle bins in between.

There are doggy bins for dog poo! A series of bins that divide the recycling and general rubbish in numerous places around the towns!

Malta is doing its best, but still people throw their trash into vacant lots, in the streets and from the boats! I hope that all residents, visitors and boat people will embrace the need to take care of this beautiful island!

The rains have cleaned the streets, however we are guessing that the trash is now in the sparkling Mediterranean, only to be washed up on the beaches with the changing currents!

We need to embrace the fact that humans can save or destroy this island paradise!