Capri, caves, cliffs, and costly!

Part two of today’s story begins…

Landing at the Grand Marina on Capri Island,

Joining the throngs of Tourists! (Again)

Quick bathroom stop, purchased a couple of bus tickets, then to avoid the queues, we decided to walk up the hill to Capri town! Definitely a path less travelled as it was all ours!

Jill on the first leg looking quite fresh!

Through alleyways of steps, this wrought iron grape gate to someone’s house!

Nearing the top, more steps and time for a rest!

Looking back towards from where we had come, still more steps to go!

Finally at the top – 900 steps and this does not include the flat inclines! Definitely time for a coffee and food! 7€ ($13.00 NZD) for a latte, very nice! And well appreciated!

We then wandered down a path well travelled to some points of interest.

Very elaborate hotels! (This is only one of them)

A ceramic sculpture – rope included!

A lemoncello stall on a lovely promenade

Almost a bush walk (a rarity when visiting a Rock)

Antique water fountains! (Used to make the Capri perfume) They tell us the water is fine to drink (not risking this though)

Another one – set in beautiful gardens – we had definitely walked to a more affluent area!

We paid €1.00 to visit the Krupp gardens – a Euro well spent!

The lookout at the top of the gardens and…

Back towards the marina side! The views (and cliffs) were breathtaking! Little did I realise what was yet to come!

Back through Capri (and this little statue) to catch a bus to AnaCapri (the sister twin on the other side of the island)

Ok so this is a little mini bus crammed full (we had standing room only) and up the side of a mountain! Sorry no pictures here as it was so steep, I thought I was going to die, and held my breath all the way to the top! I would say the scariest ride I had ever had in my life!

At the top a cute little town

Ceramic steps and a roaming cat!

Cobbled streets and cute little shops.

Russ checking out some new fashion styles!

Decided we would head back to the marina and do a boat trip to see the island from the outside! Deep breath and on the bus back down the mountain! Enough said, a trip I wish to forget!

Ok so we got conned (thankfully) into a private (rather expensive but fantastic) cruise! Here we go!

Russ and Hugo our driver as we leave!

Sue in her happy place – on the sea in a boat! (Even though she wasn’t driving)

The cliffs!

The caves!

The blue grottos!

The hole in the rock (yes we went through)

A private swim off the boat (towels provided) and Sue’s bikini pants ended up at her ankles as she dived in!

Oops lucky save – that could have ended up badly!

And a portrait of the wanderers with the faraglioni rocks in the background (Jill just holding it together)

End of a fabulous tour! Back into port as the clouds are rolling in and enjoying a well deserved drink (expensive) while waiting for our Ferry and our friendly taxi driver booked to collect us on arrival!

Capri it had been fun!

Amalfi from the sea!

Today has been a huge day of excursions and I will break this down into two stories!

The day trip to Capri planned, but this story is about the Amalfi coast from the sea!

Up and out the door at 7.30am to wait for our taxi to the ferry terminal (no buses at this hour on a Sunday)

The sunrise once again golden!

This Italian peasant basking in the morning sunshine looking out to sea.

On the first ferry at 8.20am and leaving Salerno port

This is the port where all the ferries and container ships come and go from, that we have been watching from our deck, since we arrived in Amalfi

This is looking back at Vietri Sul Mare, our home in the coast.

Minori – not sure how the cliffs turned out black – I think it’s the shadow from the sun

And Amalfi from the sea – definitely the best way to see this town – free from the throngs of tourists. (And expensive tourist shops)

Finally our last stop to collect passengers – Positano – a place we are yet to visit on the land side.

Ferry quite full, by this stage, another 30 minute ride to our destination for the day…The island of Capri! The sky’s clearing and a beautiful sunny day loomed ahead, the three Kiwis ready to explore!

Amalfi – what’s in a name?

A clear sunny day and we were up and ready to roll early! Adventure for today to catch the bus to ‘Amalfi’,the town, halfway up this mountainous coast!

The ceramic tunnel to the bus stop (nice walk wrong place)

Found the right one and not long before the bus was due to arrive we were advised no ticket sales on bus – a quick dash up the road and back with 2 minutes to spare, return tickets in hand!

The bus was already full and the three kiwis spread out the Length of bus (on the wrong side for photo opportunities)

Through the window on the other side ! ( a moment when I wasn’t holding on for dear life). I have a new admiration for Amalfi coast bus drivers, as we were all feeling squeezy and in need of a walk and strong coffee on arrival (after an hour in the very treacherous bus ride)

We walked through the tourist street to the top end of town for our coffee

And this little cutie for rent (for my car enthusiasts) parked nearby!

Down the busy tourist street back to the seafront

And the centre of town….

Past The basilica (every town had one)

And finally found the tourist information centre to get some information on ferry timetables (as definitely a better option after our bus trip experience) and the walks around the coast.

Jill decided she would go off and do one (walk) and Russ and Sue explored Amalfi a bit more…

On the edge (avoiding cars, buses and motorbikes)

Around the point

Looking towards the next swimming hole.

And a bunch of aforementioned motorbikes lined up…

Looking back towards Amalfi, every little bit of space utilised.

Having seen the tourist street and the church and not wishing to hike in 28 degrees we wandered to the other end of the beach.

Pay for a space and all rocks – our sandy beach back at Vietri Sul Mare looking pretty good!

View back towards Amalfi from the Seawall

And Russ relaxing looking further West up the coast (an adventure for another day)

Back up at the buildings in the cliffs (guessing Jill is up there somewhere and not at all envious)

Gasping for a cool one, in good Bonnici-Carter style, we found a small shaded bar and inhaled a Corona and a plate of Olives! Nothing like mixing Mexican with Italian!

On the bus back to our quiet town (with a very distressed dog yapping away), we have the seaside window and great views

Down to another beach , although can’t quite work out how!

The terraced gardens – we can see lots of grapes growing in terraces down to the sea! No wonder Italians have nice legs (up and down these hills!)

Almost home, Salerno in the distance and the sea looking every inviting.

We two are very happy we don’t have to travel this road every day to explore the coast – next trip planned by sea! (Thinking the dog would be happier too!)

The Places we go

Vietri Sul Mare, the gateway to the Amalfi Coast. Woke up this morning….

To a ball of fire rising in a cloudless sky, promising a perfect summers day!

After yesterday’s walk up the ‘mountain’ to the township, a little more investigation revealed an hourly mini bus service! Waiting at the bustop at 9.15am looking up towards the town. Perfect, on schedule, a five minute ride and there we were in the hustle and bustle of daily life in this seaside town!

First stop – Coffee. Somewhat cooler up top than we anticipated as a strong breeze was tunnelling through the narrow streets!

After finding many local gastronomic delights, and shopping bags full to the brims with fruit, veges, cheeses, breads and fish we decided it was time to head back down to our beachside home (and fridge!)

A pasta shop – pasta in every shape and size!

Walking downhill – slowly, avoiding cars and motorbikes, the footpaths are very narrow and cobbled (that is when there are footpaths)

The sea in the background our destination!

Half way down – the sea getting closer!

Back home for a baguette and fresh cheese then off to the beach for a swim!

We definitely are visiting this area at the right time of the year – spoiled for choice for our beach position. You may see the line of pebbles – this is where all the Italians sit (uncomfortably I would imagine) as they don’t like sand! So much sand for our taking!

Two swims and a snooze on the beach. Then a short stroll back up to our abode.

A cool fresh shower on our private courtyard! And the sun is starting to drop behind the tree and providing a bit of well needed shade

I guess we all know what this means….. it’s 5 o’clock somewhere in the world and the beer is chilling! The wanderers settle in for another blissful evening!

Well refreshed and ready to explore tomorrow!

City to Coast!

We left Trastevere Rome at 7.30 am locked and loaded – no more shopping!

First train to Roma Termini and a huge walk, dragging bags, to our 1st class fast train to Salerno! Five minutes before it, left they announced the gate! (Was a little stressful)

An hour and a half travel to Salerno on the Amalfi coast

Average speed 300 km/hr

Then our wonderful Airbnb host Bruno met us at the train station and took us to our seaside abode, for the next 10 days, in Vietri Sul Mare! 27 degrees and sunshine!

Beautiful aqua tiles and a welcome heart!

View from our wrap around deck

And just across the road – heaven!

Down the road (everywhere is up or down at least 40 degree incline) to the local grocery store to fill up the fridge!

Down was easy and up carrying water and supplies a little more taxing. We do underestimate the value of hills (legs getting stronger by the day!)

Just had to regroup for a few minutes!

Russ had a rest and Jill and Sue took off in search of a nice wine – this time UP

Our coastline whichever way you look at it is breathtaking (also the hills are breathtaking!)

Vietri Sul Mare is the home to handmade ceramics!

A lovely change from the key rings and tea towel souvenir shops.

And the suns are still shining everywhere!

Almost to the top and still smiling!

Every thing ceramic!

Fountains and wall murals! All ceramic!

Found a wine shop and Jill picked up a cold white she thinks she might like and..

Summer is still here in the Amalfi coast the begonias are in bloom.

One more ceramic shop front and just to prove we made it to the top!

Looking down the valley back to our beach!

Downhill from here all the way – cobbled and narrow – a breeze!

Back past our neighbours

Colourful house and to our new home for the evening, to relax on our cool (now in some shade) deck and plan the Amalfi adventures! These three kiwi wanderers are once again settled in a new world! (Or probably a very old world as Italy is steeped in history and tradition)

Italian Fashion V’s Kiwi Fashion

I have one more story to write before I leave Rome and this will probably appeal to my female Readers!

Shopping in Rome has highlighted some fashion gaps in our culture!

Firstly – do not expect to fit a small or medium size in clothing!

Italian clothing is worn as tight as you can squeeze into and unless you are 6 foot tall and about 60kgs this will be very uncomfortable to wear at home. As someone who always buys a size larger and the looseness gives an illusion of slimness, I am an XL or even XXL to get the right fit!

Secondly – Italians are much shorter than the average Kiwi! The fashionable short style sweaters, tops and jackets would barely cover the breasts – also creating an unwanted mid drift (not ideal at 50 something!)

Thirdly – trousers are either ankle length (offering the average Kiwi the middle age 3/4 pant look) or very long and flared ( which means one would need to wear at least 6inch heels or platforms – a fashion we do not follow and is also very dangerous after a couple of wines)

Fourth note – colour! While some beautiful classic colours and styles are available in the boutiques (at exorbitant prices), the majority of off-the-shelf clothing is very loudly patterned, Lacey and sparkled! Again whilst we might wear this on holiday and feel fabulous, it is not a style that would fit in with our everyday life at home!

And Finally – Shoes! Beautiful shoes – many styles and colours and heels designed to break your leg! While it is tempting to return home with these one of a kind creations (if you can fit them in your baggage allowance) it is not easy to find your size, if you have feet larger than a size eight! Except there are the orthopaedic Velcro options for older swollen feet! Yes kiwi girls we have ‘Big Feet’ – lucky when buying a walking athletic shoe we have the option of men’s styles (also with the wide foot option).

Needless to say my bag is not overloaded with amazing Italian shopping and the credit card has survived fairly unscathed!

Underground in Rome

Last day in Rome – Jill and Sue off to visit the Catacombes of San Domitilla – the oldest in Rome with the only underground Basilica (church) and 17.5 kms ,on four levels, of ancient Roman tombs. The only way to see these was with a guide.

Soooo…a walk of a bit over an hour

Rome street parking – right on an intersection and a good reason to own a “smart car”

Arrived at the catacombes just as an English tour was starting – perfect timing. No photos allowed in the catacombes (you will need to google to see images) However did manage a couple of the church…

Inside the church , on our way out (front)

And the back of the church – entire church in Stone!

Up at ground level – in search of a coffee and bus! All new territory and very unfamiliar. The bus did not arrive so, again on foot, we set off following google maps. Some rather interesting areas (piles of trash, overgrown weeds, campervan park, and interesting folk). After about an hour we came across ..

Eataly – a farro fresh on gigantic scale – four levels of every type of food you can imagine!

Looking down from 3rd level set my vertigo churning

A stairway to more heaven – bees and flowers!

Alcohol – in huge quantities!

Chocolate! A little taste test to keep our energy levels up.

Then a pleasant surprise as we exited, we were right near a train station one stop from home! Possibly the best thing that happened all day as we had already walked our 20kms and feeling rather footsore!

Russ is off at his pre-booked tour of the Sistine Chapel and the girls have an afternoon of collating all our belongings ready for our new adventure on the Amalfi coast!

It’s been fun Roaming in Rome and definitely prepared us for some long hikes at the next stop!

Must say looking forward to seeing the sea again!

Same day more Rome

Afternoon walk to Augustine hill! Just had to tell another story today!

Unusable relics from old Rome!

Up a hill and one of the seven hills of Ancient Rome! A path less travelled!

And the views at the top – all of Rome is in walking distance

Looking back at our side of the river!

The old road leading to the top of Augustine hill – unused and under renovation (this area is very close to the coliseum an the Roman Forem)

The Vatican in the distance (actually not that far away)

A selfie from the top of Augustine hill – one of the seven hills of the Roman Empire!

And concert music in the gardens – it was beautiful and peaceful apart from the French school group all in yellow hats!

A little bit of Malta in the garden!

And a little more of Malta with with great specimen of automobile history! As we affectionately know as Fiat Bambina!

Off to the keyhole – a big door with a queue and one eye…

https://c8.alamy.com/comp/D3CATY/the-knights-of-malta-

The view of the Vatican. Dome off the internet and this is what we saw – I took a picture and it was amazing

Through the keyhole (iPhone photo taken up to small keyhole) – the Virgin Mary praying! Wow this was wierd!

The Augustine hill was the site of wealthy Romans and a monastery and the site of the Maltese order of the knights!

Quite a discovery for the wanderers off the beaten path!

Another basilica and down the hill, to find our tram home, we looked across to the palentine hill castle ruins

Home for the evening! Eight days in Rome is proving to be an amazing experience!

Heart and Sole!

This mornings adventures were centred around walking shoes for Sue! This week of wearing jandals and chucks has taken its toll! So now sporting a very supportive pair of New Balance, sensible, shoes ready to roam again! Soled appropriately!

However today’s story is about yesterday afternoon/evening adventures in the “Heart” of Rome.

Yes the Vatican! Missed the pope by a day – he had presented himself to 100,000 people on Sunday! Nevertheless, we didn’t avoid the usual tourist crowds, arriving around 3.00pm to extensive (and slow moving) queues!

And a sea of empty chairs (yet to be removed from the previous days activities)

A family photo with the fountain then off to see if Russ could get into the Sistine Chapel (as this was his goal) only to be informed it closed at 4.pm – he has now booked a time (and jump the queue ticket) for tomorrow.

Time to rest the soles (feet) in this very papal side street.

Souvenirs mats and wall hangings

Every colour and size (one) perfect for the next P party.

Not to be eaten and for trash only! Just note the cobbled street and understand the pain of the soles! (Feet)

Street entertainment while sipping a cool Heineken!

Then on a mission, at dusk, in search of the degustation Italian restaurant Jill had come across a couple of evenings ago

One last view of the Vatican as the sun is going down

Across another bridge. In case you hadn’t realised by now, the Tiber River snakes it’s way right through the city of Rome and every 500(or 1000) meters there is a bridge connecting all quarters!

Another Church! Many of these too – all through the city!

Jill had a little handbag and shoe shop – and laden with bags,

Jill’s shopping!

We continued on our mission to find this restaurant! A city of thousands of restaurants, narrow cobbled streets, tourists and crazy drivers!

After some time circling and backtracking, we chanced on the elusive destination! Not yet open at 7.00pm, we returned after 30 minutes only to find it almost full.

Bluffed our way in and proceeded to consume a five course meal!

Uneventful tram trip home by 10.30 pm! Hearts full and Soles sore we rolled happily into a horizontal position!

Art, artefacts, artisans

Monday morning, it’s business time for the Italians in Rome.

The roaming Kiwis, plus one, set off on foot (again) in search of an allied forces memorial to the fallen soldiers in the 2nd world war.

Another bridge across the Tiber to the other side

Looking back at the rail bridge (can’t quite get enough of these views)

A very modern apartment building in a city of old and new.

Then through an industrial area and littered with, not only trash, but amazing Street art…..

The full facade of this building painted with faces

A leg up under the railway bridge

A wall of colour!

A wall in black and white

Standing tall!

These are but a few of the images brightening up the streets!

A little further to the Commonwealth war memorial, in memorial park (address for those interested)

Via delle Conce, 20, 00154 Roma RM, Italy

Beautifully kept enclosed park and gardens

Two of the ten New Zealanders resting here (average age 22)

A sobering momento to one of the many wars fought in and around this city!

Luke took off for a run and to return home to shower and pack ready for his next journey. Sue, Russ and Jill took the scenic route in search of a coffee

Elias Cafe – and a bit of monkeying around on the wall.

Coffee art – heart for Jill, flower for Sue and a smiley face for Russ!

These accompanied by a delicious pastry each and all for €6.70 (about $11.00NZ).

Sated again, we continued on our loop. Thinking we were doing well avoiding all the tourist traps, we came upon….

St Pauls Basilica at Ostiense, only about 30 tour buses. We had to cross the road and see the place while we were there!

The entrance to the courtyard.

Inside the courtyard and this Statue of St Paul (this is his final resting place) greets us.

The balcony roof art!

A sneaky peek inside, as Sue, totally unprepared for church visits was sporting a singlet and mini skirt (the protocol for dress is shoulders covered and skirt below knee!)

The front door (tall people catered for)

Jill and Russ went inside, Sue hung out in the garden, and then we headed back over yet another bridge to meet Luke for the key swapover before 1pm when he had to leave for the airport.

On the rivers edge we had full view of the coast (river) guard station!

Up the main shopping street with blinkers on (as all shops were talking to us) and back at apartment for lunch.

This is only half a day, we are leaving mid afternoon (appropriately dressed) to visit the Vatican and Sistine chapel).

Feet already sore a change of shoes is in order, jandals are a struggle on these paved hard surfaces!

This morning we have enjoyed…Street Art….memorials….modern architecture….ancient architecture and history…coffee art and community services (coastguard river style) all within a 5km radius from our home in Rome!