Day two back in Malta and the Rain has followed us, but at least we have a car!

We dropped Julie to Kevin’s in readiness to fly off today and went into town to do some business stuff! All went very smoothly as the rain got heavier and heavier.

Feeling very much like a coffee and something to eat, by 11.30, we headed to a cafe we knew had a nice indoor area.

Rivers running down the roads and streets! (On the up side providing the car with a much needed rinse)

The breakfast menu finished at midday and at 11.55am we ordered our full cooked English breakfast and a large cappuccino for €9 (the first bacon and eggs I have had since leaving NZ)

Russ has had a change from the green sweater today and is sporting his Orange jacket (that his workmates gave him for his leaving present). Definitely brightening up a dull day!

Still raining heavily (I seriously didn’t think it rained this much in Malta – just showing it’s human side!), we thought we would pop in and see my cousin Anna! Who was at home and we had a great catch up with her.

No sign of the wet abating, we thought we better head home before the work traffic. I must say Maltese drivers are much more cautious in the wet weather!

We took a little detour to Senglea to see our favourite town.

Two massive tourist ships in for the day. Earlier on our travels, we had seen a hop on hop off bus (with top deck open) quite full with the passengers all sightseeing with umbrellas up! How miserable! Their impression of this beautiful island may not be as we know it – a day in the rain is not too much fun!

Across in the grand harbour (Vittoriosa side) the big boys are resting for the off season.

Back to our home in Figura to snaffle a car park, before the evening shoppers come out (all things opening again at 4pm after siesta), and here we are hunkered down for the evening – just two Kiwi wanderers left to tell the tale!

As my story yesterday ended with a question, the answer is YES we did make it home to Malta, with a rush through the airport and onto a plane in gale force winds and torrential rain.

After a rather scary (and bumpy) take off, an hour late we made it back to a much calmer Malta in time for dinner!

We have two more travelling kiwis to spend the day with before they head off to their next adventure! (Julie and Pam)

This morning we went to the street market in Birgu, now somewhat smaller in the winter months

Julie really enjoyed the fruit and vege stalls!

And a very smelly street of fresh (?) fish. Octopus and Lampuki!

We then headed up to Mdina (the silent city), a must see before they leave. Outside the tourist time (summer) it was very pleasant!

Standing outside the walls and still wearing shorts on this winters day.

Without the crowds we had a chance to see some of the artwork in houses of the knights.

These donkeys are following me from Italy!

Antique clock and red doors!

The horses are coping with their cooler workdays, carting tourists around the town.

Russ is still wearing his green sweater!

And Julie decided that she certainly has some Maltese genes – the doors are just her size!

Blue skies and then off to Rabat so Julie and Pam could visit the St Paul’s cathedral catacombes, which were converted to air raid shelters in WWII

Sue and Russ wandered around St Paul’s square while the girls went underground.

Found this monument at the back of the church. Which is a memorial from some seamen who encountered St Paul during his sojourn here and supported him on his to Rome, where he was ultimately executed by Caesar!

The inscription in English from the seamen!

This memorial monument of St Paul in the square in Rabat!

We are off to meet Kevin and Rols for dinner for the girls last night! I have to say it is quite a relief to have a car again (giving the feet a rest) and to see the sunshine!

Today is our last day in Amalfi coast and the weather gods are telling us it’s time to leave …,

Ten days ago we were greeted with this

Today the tide had turned

Day one our beautiful coastline

No lounging on the beach today!

It’s been a great ride in the south of Italy and fulfilled all our expectations!

Golden sunsets!

Experiencing the history

Reaching new heights and breathtaking views

Rubbing shoulders with the locals!

Hunting out the best coffee places!

Artwork

Basilica’s

And so much more! These Amalfians are a friendly, helpful community. Crazy drivers, very fit and very loud! To live in a place for 10 days where no one speaks much English, our communication senses have heightened and our sign language works well!

We are sure to leave here with a much higher level of fitness and some wonderful memories of our adventures!

The wanderers legs (or more specifically calf muscles) are still feeling the pain. (From the hike)

The weekend storms are rolling in.

Our usually calm beach is a bit roughed up!

We took the long way up to town, to avoid the steps, although The steep cobbled road not too much easier!

The last of the summer bloom is in the stores, as it definitely feels like winter is on its way to this part of the world.

We decided to take the train to Cava dei Tirreni, which is one stop from our station (and the home to our Air BNB host). Getting to the station, however, meant three long flights of steps! Testing our endurance.

This town, in the hills, is a shopping Mecca

All the shops under long archways and everything you can imagine. It’s probably a good thing that my carryon bag is at its limit.

The Church square, every town has them, this one has mountains as it’s backdrop!

HOWEVER, Todays story is really about some of the transport options, on the coast, other than feet! Get ready for the ride….

Our very quiet electric train!

And motorbikes everywhere (most popular mode of transport and seem to be number one in the pecking order – everyone gives way to them!)

Easy to park!

Old ones…

Green ones….

Camouflaged ones….

Big and small ones..

And now we have the service vehicles

Ambulance – stationed at Vietri Sul Mare – ready for a quick getaway to the Amalfi cliff roads. (These are very busy vehicles)

The Carabinieri (police) – best not to ride in this one.

The local curtainsider delivery trucks, a little smaller than we see at home but no less threatening – they stop for no one!

And last but not least the buses and their very brave drivers who navigate the steep, narrow winding roads on the Amalfi coast!

Of course there are cars, in all shapes sizes and models!

Smart cars – a perfect vehicle for tight parking spaces.

The arrogant Audi drivers who park anywhere!

This fine specimen of a soft top VW

Vintage cars (you may have seen this one spied earlier on our travels)

Not to be forgotten the two wheeled pedal powered mode…

Designed for display only…

White walked tyres and a basket of flowers on this vintage model…

Mountain bikes (possibly the most suited to this terrain)….

And this old step through has seen better days.

And now some unique examples of motoring..

The lovely old camper van option – this one permanently parked at the railway station (freedom camping)

And the ‘piece de resistance’….

A three wheeled motorbike truck! It took me all day to catch one of these very popular vehicles. They zip all through the streets, carrying people, produce, children in the back, building supplies and really just about anything. This is definitely a must have if you live on the Amalfi Coast!

After yesterday’s hiking extravaganza, Jill took herself off to visit another village in the hills. Sue and Russ decided more exploration around our town (Vietri Sul Mare) would be enough to stretch the legs!

Up the hill again looking back at the agricultural plot, growing fruit and vegetables.

This orange tree up close, laden with fruit which will ripen over the next few months.

In search of a castle, we can see from the beach, we took a path less travelled (by tourists) into the local housing areas.

A large mosaic in the middle of a paved plaza, the ceramic designs are all through the town.

The local primary school – playgrounds limited!

We followed our noses out towards the edge of the cliffs and a lovely old lady gave us instructions (totally in Italian, but pointing worked) to a couple of things she thought we should see!

A clifttop plaza lookout, with views of the large villas perched high above the bay.

Another small plaza with a full model village (all made in ceramics)which included the colleseum, Roman forum, and Bethlehem! Amazing detail!

A little close up of part of the model where you can see the figurines. These are called ‘Presepi’, originally only made as nativity scenes, but now include other scenes of Italian life.

We found my castle on the Cliff – behind locked gates. From what we could gather it is a religious sanctuary, or the home of the head catholic hierarchy in the town.

Making our way back towards the town centre and our favourite coffee stop, we noticed an old man, in what looked like a small garage, making figurines out of clay! We started chatting, us in English, him in Italian and with lots of pointing we both understood each other somewhat!

He then took us through a locked door into another back garage, where he showed us the process of ceramic making. In this shed – he had the raw clay, hand made models (lots of donkeys and goats), his kiln for firing, his glazing urn, his paints and an array of his artwork!

He allowed me to take a picture of him, in his workshop, and I bought a small donkey and goat (we know these are handmade and not mass produced as the ones we see in the town appear to be) He also gave me a fish! This started a whole new ‘conversation’ on our mutual love of fishing!

Onwards and upwards we explored

Through tunnels connecting streets or not (sometimes a dead end and we had to backtrack)

And here we are at the heart of the town – church of St John the Baptiste.

Couldn’t resist another photo of the inside, with beautiful art and bright natural light.

Another of Italian peculiarities, the water fountains and in our town, of course ceramic!

Coffee break and a little more exploring to be had.

Italian policeman directing traffic (whilst talking on his mobile phone) at a five road intersection.

The mermaid in the main town plaza – guarding the path to the sea.

This very cute shop assistant, guarding the door to a ceramic shop. You wouldn’t think to leave without paying!

And finally…..

Russ beside the artwork outside the tourist information centre! Everything looking very green (including Russ as he only brought one sweater with him).

With only half an hour before midday shop closing time, we thought we better head to the supermarket store and grab the few things we needed!

Thankfully we did not need to negotiate these steps (with our slightly stiff legs)

Finally laden with our shopping we headed home for an afternoon siesta!

This guy already taking his, on a very comfortable motorbike seat!

The path less travelled, when not in a rush, unravels many treasures and peculiarities of culture and life of the people who live here. The reason we wander…

7.8 km, plus another 2000 steps down and 1 km to walk to bus home!

It has been a big day again, with lots of foot and leg work! So welcome to the ride (or I should say hike)

The breakwater at Amalfi, the beginning of our journey – a bus ride from here to Agerola (the start of the track) which zigzagged straight up the mountain from Amalfi.

You can see some of the roads taken from the bus window!

Off we went – a short walk through the town to the track

Looking back on terraced grapevines which are all along the Amalfi coast! (A very manual planting and harvesting operation I would say)

Russ’s first rest stop at the beginning of the trail.

And Sues first view point! The views were incredible and not sure the pictures will do them justice. Just around the corner and…,

Flattened against the wall as three running donkeys (and one man not totally in control) roared past laden with firewood. Was a little in danger of losing a limb with long firewood branches!

This is the smooth part of the track (still feeling relatively fresh although definitely warming up)

As close to the edge as one dares! Some very steep cliffs.

Still going up and going strong!

Bells were ringing (not the church ones) and in the bushes we spied….

A herd of big black goats all wearing cowbells to alert us to their presence!

Looking back at this split rock reaching for the sky

A close up of the vineyard trellis ( all hand made) and time for a stop and snack break at the fork in the track.

Russ has found his rock! We were advised to take the low track as this had the best vistas (not sure it had the best track – this is where it got interesting)

First lookout point – right to the end of the Amalfi coast and Capri in the distance

A farmhouse high on the hill…. no wonder they need donkeys!

Russ and Jill on the rockier track ( this was a little downhill bit)

Just a little bit of tree hugging for Sue ( helps minimise the vertigo)

And the cobalt blue of the Mediterranean – and the skies a lighter shade (not a cloud in sight)

Looking up at a deserted house set in below the cliff face.

And down – way down!

Our first glimpse of Positano – still a long way to go (little did we know)

Jill and Russ – this time up! And on the rocky track (which set the scene for the next few kms)

When the going gets tough, the tough just take a wee rest! Most of water drunk by this stage.

Still views everywhere – Jill on the edge this time!

And arriving at Nocelle the end of the track! Well done team!

One flight of stairs down and a lovely plaza with this little cart selling lemon slushies and a few more cold drinks! A welcome stop!

That is where we were headed – we could have taken a bus to Positano but feeling very pleased with our achievements so far, we decided what was another 2000 steps! Actually option one would probably have been smart in hindsight!

Another donkey on the way down – knees, calves and several other parts of our anatomy were telling us we should have taken the bus. No wonder the Donkey was laughing at us!

We then made the decision to walk the 1km to Positano to keep the legs moving (some people never give in!)

Around the road edge looking still down!

And Positano, there you are! With two bus rides and two hours ahead of us, we chose not to browse the souvenir shops (hard choice) and get on the first bus of our journey to Amalfi (standing room only)

Back at the abode at Vietri Sul Mare and very happy to be here! What a great achievement for Russ who a month ago thought he would never be able to do this hike. Never say never!!! Still a lot left in the tank!

Vietri Sul Mare, far enough away from the cities, close enough to the must sees and fantastic views of the Amalfi Coast!

Surrounded by the locals, and living like the locals in our local house! Life is pretty good right now.

Today is a rest day, the weather is perfect and the breeze is just a gentle reminder that winter, for the Amalfians, may be on its way.

We have adopted the Italian shopping habits – out in the morning to buy fresh bread and supplies for the day (everything closes at midday and only some shops reopen at 5.00pm for a couple of hours)

Sue and Russ walked to our local convenience store first thing for the daily supplies.

Taking the long way round with a stroll along the seafront – the local boats pulled up for the winter

A sand soccer pitch on the promenade – (actually two pitches)

Off to our local and back home for breakfast. Then our daily exercise – a walk up the hill to the town centre for our coffee and a leisurely stroll around the shops (that we only ever see closed). €430.00 for this fabulous guitar handbag! (Photo opportunity only)

Back home by midday and relaxing in the sunshine.

Russ enjoying a coffee on our deck before lunch and a lie down (resting the weary legs after yesterday’s rock scrambling)

Jill chilling with her book and the days washing, almost dry! When you travel for two and s half weeks with a carry on bag only, there comes a time when we need to wash clothes!

Sue about to pack up her book and head to the beach for the afternoon

The sea looking very inviting. Even though the locals are decked out in jeans, boots and jackets, it is certainly warm enough for the kiwis to don their bathing suits a few more times!

For those of you who have been, you will recognise some of this story, for those that haven’t yet ticked this off your bucket list – get ready to ‘Rock’

A little history – Pompeii is an ancient Italian city buried by the eruption of Mt Vesuvius in 79AD and excavations to expose its remains began in late 1800’s

Arriving in Pompeii at 9am (a 30 minute train ride from our town) on a chilly morning after yesterday’s storm. 10 minutes of walking the gauntlet of tour operators trying to sell us deals to the archeological site.

This monument in the town square is for our American friends, the Pompeii memorial to 9/11

In the gates at 9.15!

We then had a march across the other side of the park for Russ to get an audio guide (already put off the tours which were groups of around 30!)

As there was no underground drainage in this city, the cobbled streets served as water run offs – the crossings were elevated boulders in the street!

Thirsty work – Russ seeing if the water fountain is still working

Jill and I left Russ to exit, at gate two, in search of his audio guide. At which time Sue stepped on a paving stone (covering a very deep hole) which wasn’t secure and sent her flat on her face! Rather embarrassing but luckily on grass!

We then wandered through the gladiators theatre

And the stadium above it

A semi circle amphitheatre for comedy and pantomimes!

We continued up the hill (this place is huge) and through some Palatian homes

Some of the original artwork still remains in the house ruins ( the more wealthy the more blue!)

We found ourselves in the Forum – the large square where people gathered to meet and do business

With the remains of a man horse statue (head missing)

And the basilica (church) off to the side.

The remains of the entrance pillars in the foreground

Still no sign of Russ! A quick phone call determined he was sorted and armed with his audio box ( which actually turned out to be a lemon) and we met up again. It was easier to surreptitiously listen to the English guides spiel when needed!

Lunch break (packed sandwiches)

The Roman’s invented LEGO over 2000 years ago – proof in these unearthed remains!

The rear end of this enormous statue on the hill top – marking the temple of Venus.

The inside of a house and remains of utensils!

Writing that has survived the centuries! Above a place of business

Artwork on walls inside one of the preserved homes – still in great condition on the plaster walls.

Miles and miles of unearthed remains of Roman homes, businesses, fountain rooms, churches and plazas.

We finally ended up in the colluseum arena where the gladiators performed!

Footsore, backsore and rocked out it was time to make our merry way home, after five hours of Pompeii adventures, a couple of hundred stairs downhill and home to a lovely sunny evening.

So the weather gods today were suggesting a rest day for the wandering Kiwis!

Well almost!

This morning we left for a shopping trip (food) headed to Salerno and the dark clouds are rolling in from the south!

Prepared for the weather change with rain jackets and umbrellas we walked to the top, to catch the bus, arriving in the city of Salerno around 10.30am.

Creatures of habit coffee first!

Gentle rain showers started and the coats and umbrellas came out! However we needed to see the place while we were there!

We headed away from the boutique (tourist) area into the old city

The streets got narrower with many abandoned or closed shops and buildings!

More homeless humans of the city and seedy little bars (thinking we may have chanced on the drug area off the beaten track)

Safety in numbers our trek continued…rain now slowed to an intermittent drizzle)

Small hole in the wall shops were still open (no customers just the venders on the footpath smoking)

A little butchery and fruit and vegetable seller (strings of rather old peppers)

Boiled Fruit lollies behind closed windows!

Colourful tacky lace frocks for the undiscerning tourist! (Wasn’t tempted)

Decided it was time to hunt down the one supermarket we had found on “google” and get back to our abode as the skies were getting darker!

Found the church – always a good sign!

And guided by an angel! The Christmas bunting was starting to go up in these old streets!

The bell tower is all that remains of the original church, rang out its 11.45am chimes! (Maybe a prelude to the midday ringing)

We found the supermarket, not as we know it, (more like our corner store) and stocked up as best we could. Laden with three full carry bags we headed out of ‘Old Salerno’. We still had a bus to catch!

Arriving at the top of our hill around 1.30pm. Temperature dropping and Sues arms getting longer by the minute (heavy bags), and, as chance would have it, we spied our little shuttle bus to ride down to the marina and near our house!

Five minutes to spare, thunder and lightning rolled in from the sea, darkness and heavy rain!

I would say we had perfect timing with today’s travels and, as we have food, a lazy night in for us is planned!