The Places we go

Vietri Sul Mare, the gateway to the Amalfi Coast. Woke up this morning….

To a ball of fire rising in a cloudless sky, promising a perfect summers day!

After yesterday’s walk up the ‘mountain’ to the township, a little more investigation revealed an hourly mini bus service! Waiting at the bustop at 9.15am looking up towards the town. Perfect, on schedule, a five minute ride and there we were in the hustle and bustle of daily life in this seaside town!

First stop – Coffee. Somewhat cooler up top than we anticipated as a strong breeze was tunnelling through the narrow streets!

After finding many local gastronomic delights, and shopping bags full to the brims with fruit, veges, cheeses, breads and fish we decided it was time to head back down to our beachside home (and fridge!)

A pasta shop – pasta in every shape and size!

Walking downhill – slowly, avoiding cars and motorbikes, the footpaths are very narrow and cobbled (that is when there are footpaths)

The sea in the background our destination!

Half way down – the sea getting closer!

Back home for a baguette and fresh cheese then off to the beach for a swim!

We definitely are visiting this area at the right time of the year – spoiled for choice for our beach position. You may see the line of pebbles – this is where all the Italians sit (uncomfortably I would imagine) as they don’t like sand! So much sand for our taking!

Two swims and a snooze on the beach. Then a short stroll back up to our abode.

A cool fresh shower on our private courtyard! And the sun is starting to drop behind the tree and providing a bit of well needed shade

I guess we all know what this means….. it’s 5 o’clock somewhere in the world and the beer is chilling! The wanderers settle in for another blissful evening!

Well refreshed and ready to explore tomorrow!

City to Coast!

We left Trastevere Rome at 7.30 am locked and loaded – no more shopping!

First train to Roma Termini and a huge walk, dragging bags, to our 1st class fast train to Salerno! Five minutes before it, left they announced the gate! (Was a little stressful)

An hour and a half travel to Salerno on the Amalfi coast

Average speed 300 km/hr

Then our wonderful Airbnb host Bruno met us at the train station and took us to our seaside abode, for the next 10 days, in Vietri Sul Mare! 27 degrees and sunshine!

Beautiful aqua tiles and a welcome heart!

View from our wrap around deck

And just across the road – heaven!

Down the road (everywhere is up or down at least 40 degree incline) to the local grocery store to fill up the fridge!

Down was easy and up carrying water and supplies a little more taxing. We do underestimate the value of hills (legs getting stronger by the day!)

Just had to regroup for a few minutes!

Russ had a rest and Jill and Sue took off in search of a nice wine – this time UP

Our coastline whichever way you look at it is breathtaking (also the hills are breathtaking!)

Vietri Sul Mare is the home to handmade ceramics!

A lovely change from the key rings and tea towel souvenir shops.

And the suns are still shining everywhere!

Almost to the top and still smiling!

Every thing ceramic!

Fountains and wall murals! All ceramic!

Found a wine shop and Jill picked up a cold white she thinks she might like and..

Summer is still here in the Amalfi coast the begonias are in bloom.

One more ceramic shop front and just to prove we made it to the top!

Looking down the valley back to our beach!

Downhill from here all the way – cobbled and narrow – a breeze!

Back past our neighbours

Colourful house and to our new home for the evening, to relax on our cool (now in some shade) deck and plan the Amalfi adventures! These three kiwi wanderers are once again settled in a new world! (Or probably a very old world as Italy is steeped in history and tradition)

Italian Fashion V’s Kiwi Fashion

I have one more story to write before I leave Rome and this will probably appeal to my female Readers!

Shopping in Rome has highlighted some fashion gaps in our culture!

Firstly – do not expect to fit a small or medium size in clothing!

Italian clothing is worn as tight as you can squeeze into and unless you are 6 foot tall and about 60kgs this will be very uncomfortable to wear at home. As someone who always buys a size larger and the looseness gives an illusion of slimness, I am an XL or even XXL to get the right fit!

Secondly – Italians are much shorter than the average Kiwi! The fashionable short style sweaters, tops and jackets would barely cover the breasts – also creating an unwanted mid drift (not ideal at 50 something!)

Thirdly – trousers are either ankle length (offering the average Kiwi the middle age 3/4 pant look) or very long and flared ( which means one would need to wear at least 6inch heels or platforms – a fashion we do not follow and is also very dangerous after a couple of wines)

Fourth note – colour! While some beautiful classic colours and styles are available in the boutiques (at exorbitant prices), the majority of off-the-shelf clothing is very loudly patterned, Lacey and sparkled! Again whilst we might wear this on holiday and feel fabulous, it is not a style that would fit in with our everyday life at home!

And Finally – Shoes! Beautiful shoes – many styles and colours and heels designed to break your leg! While it is tempting to return home with these one of a kind creations (if you can fit them in your baggage allowance) it is not easy to find your size, if you have feet larger than a size eight! Except there are the orthopaedic Velcro options for older swollen feet! Yes kiwi girls we have ‘Big Feet’ – lucky when buying a walking athletic shoe we have the option of men’s styles (also with the wide foot option).

Needless to say my bag is not overloaded with amazing Italian shopping and the credit card has survived fairly unscathed!

Underground in Rome

Last day in Rome – Jill and Sue off to visit the Catacombes of San Domitilla – the oldest in Rome with the only underground Basilica (church) and 17.5 kms ,on four levels, of ancient Roman tombs. The only way to see these was with a guide.

Soooo…a walk of a bit over an hour

Rome street parking – right on an intersection and a good reason to own a “smart car”

Arrived at the catacombes just as an English tour was starting – perfect timing. No photos allowed in the catacombes (you will need to google to see images) However did manage a couple of the church…

Inside the church , on our way out (front)

And the back of the church – entire church in Stone!

Up at ground level – in search of a coffee and bus! All new territory and very unfamiliar. The bus did not arrive so, again on foot, we set off following google maps. Some rather interesting areas (piles of trash, overgrown weeds, campervan park, and interesting folk). After about an hour we came across ..

Eataly – a farro fresh on gigantic scale – four levels of every type of food you can imagine!

Looking down from 3rd level set my vertigo churning

A stairway to more heaven – bees and flowers!

Alcohol – in huge quantities!

Chocolate! A little taste test to keep our energy levels up.

Then a pleasant surprise as we exited, we were right near a train station one stop from home! Possibly the best thing that happened all day as we had already walked our 20kms and feeling rather footsore!

Russ is off at his pre-booked tour of the Sistine Chapel and the girls have an afternoon of collating all our belongings ready for our new adventure on the Amalfi coast!

It’s been fun Roaming in Rome and definitely prepared us for some long hikes at the next stop!

Must say looking forward to seeing the sea again!

Same day more Rome

Afternoon walk to Augustine hill! Just had to tell another story today!

Unusable relics from old Rome!

Up a hill and one of the seven hills of Ancient Rome! A path less travelled!

And the views at the top – all of Rome is in walking distance

Looking back at our side of the river!

The old road leading to the top of Augustine hill – unused and under renovation (this area is very close to the coliseum an the Roman Forem)

The Vatican in the distance (actually not that far away)

A selfie from the top of Augustine hill – one of the seven hills of the Roman Empire!

And concert music in the gardens – it was beautiful and peaceful apart from the French school group all in yellow hats!

A little bit of Malta in the garden!

And a little more of Malta with with great specimen of automobile history! As we affectionately know as Fiat Bambina!

Off to the keyhole – a big door with a queue and one eye…

https://c8.alamy.com/comp/D3CATY/the-knights-of-malta-

The view of the Vatican. Dome off the internet and this is what we saw – I took a picture and it was amazing

Through the keyhole (iPhone photo taken up to small keyhole) – the Virgin Mary praying! Wow this was wierd!

The Augustine hill was the site of wealthy Romans and a monastery and the site of the Maltese order of the knights!

Quite a discovery for the wanderers off the beaten path!

Another basilica and down the hill, to find our tram home, we looked across to the palentine hill castle ruins

Home for the evening! Eight days in Rome is proving to be an amazing experience!

Heart and Sole!

This mornings adventures were centred around walking shoes for Sue! This week of wearing jandals and chucks has taken its toll! So now sporting a very supportive pair of New Balance, sensible, shoes ready to roam again! Soled appropriately!

However today’s story is about yesterday afternoon/evening adventures in the “Heart” of Rome.

Yes the Vatican! Missed the pope by a day – he had presented himself to 100,000 people on Sunday! Nevertheless, we didn’t avoid the usual tourist crowds, arriving around 3.00pm to extensive (and slow moving) queues!

And a sea of empty chairs (yet to be removed from the previous days activities)

A family photo with the fountain then off to see if Russ could get into the Sistine Chapel (as this was his goal) only to be informed it closed at 4.pm – he has now booked a time (and jump the queue ticket) for tomorrow.

Time to rest the soles (feet) in this very papal side street.

Souvenirs mats and wall hangings

Every colour and size (one) perfect for the next P party.

Not to be eaten and for trash only! Just note the cobbled street and understand the pain of the soles! (Feet)

Street entertainment while sipping a cool Heineken!

Then on a mission, at dusk, in search of the degustation Italian restaurant Jill had come across a couple of evenings ago

One last view of the Vatican as the sun is going down

Across another bridge. In case you hadn’t realised by now, the Tiber River snakes it’s way right through the city of Rome and every 500(or 1000) meters there is a bridge connecting all quarters!

Another Church! Many of these too – all through the city!

Jill had a little handbag and shoe shop – and laden with bags,

Jill’s shopping!

We continued on our mission to find this restaurant! A city of thousands of restaurants, narrow cobbled streets, tourists and crazy drivers!

After some time circling and backtracking, we chanced on the elusive destination! Not yet open at 7.00pm, we returned after 30 minutes only to find it almost full.

Bluffed our way in and proceeded to consume a five course meal!

Uneventful tram trip home by 10.30 pm! Hearts full and Soles sore we rolled happily into a horizontal position!

Art, artefacts, artisans

Monday morning, it’s business time for the Italians in Rome.

The roaming Kiwis, plus one, set off on foot (again) in search of an allied forces memorial to the fallen soldiers in the 2nd world war.

Another bridge across the Tiber to the other side

Looking back at the rail bridge (can’t quite get enough of these views)

A very modern apartment building in a city of old and new.

Then through an industrial area and littered with, not only trash, but amazing Street art…..

The full facade of this building painted with faces

A leg up under the railway bridge

A wall of colour!

A wall in black and white

Standing tall!

These are but a few of the images brightening up the streets!

A little further to the Commonwealth war memorial, in memorial park (address for those interested)

Via delle Conce, 20, 00154 Roma RM, Italy

Beautifully kept enclosed park and gardens

Two of the ten New Zealanders resting here (average age 22)

A sobering momento to one of the many wars fought in and around this city!

Luke took off for a run and to return home to shower and pack ready for his next journey. Sue, Russ and Jill took the scenic route in search of a coffee

Elias Cafe – and a bit of monkeying around on the wall.

Coffee art – heart for Jill, flower for Sue and a smiley face for Russ!

These accompanied by a delicious pastry each and all for €6.70 (about $11.00NZ).

Sated again, we continued on our loop. Thinking we were doing well avoiding all the tourist traps, we came upon….

St Pauls Basilica at Ostiense, only about 30 tour buses. We had to cross the road and see the place while we were there!

The entrance to the courtyard.

Inside the courtyard and this Statue of St Paul (this is his final resting place) greets us.

The balcony roof art!

A sneaky peek inside, as Sue, totally unprepared for church visits was sporting a singlet and mini skirt (the protocol for dress is shoulders covered and skirt below knee!)

The front door (tall people catered for)

Jill and Russ went inside, Sue hung out in the garden, and then we headed back over yet another bridge to meet Luke for the key swapover before 1pm when he had to leave for the airport.

On the rivers edge we had full view of the coast (river) guard station!

Up the main shopping street with blinkers on (as all shops were talking to us) and back at apartment for lunch.

This is only half a day, we are leaving mid afternoon (appropriately dressed) to visit the Vatican and Sistine chapel).

Feet already sore a change of shoes is in order, jandals are a struggle on these paved hard surfaces!

This morning we have enjoyed…Street Art….memorials….modern architecture….ancient architecture and history…coffee art and community services (coastguard river style) all within a 5km radius from our home in Rome!

Sunday Market day

A planned market morning, for a couple of hours, then rest day for the tired legs (almost happened)

Jill and Sue headed off around 8.30 and only about 5 minutes from home it began (much sooner than expected)

Not too overcrowded, but that soon changed and the market place was huge; roads closed for around three kilometres.

Everything you can imagine

Ice cream on a pole – wedding and evening dresses, bags, underwear, tables of clothes, shoes, jewellery, leather goods and more of all of the above.

It soon became very busy and, much in need of a coffee, we dived off to the side to the first cafe we spied!

Very nice too, after 2nd coffee we hit the throngs again, with a bit more energy.

Headed back to the apartment around midday with only half of the market (if that) explored.

Sue headed back into it again, with Russ, to look for swimming shorts, as these were left behind in Malta and might be needed for the Amalfi coast at the end of the week!

A bit of a hard ask as all summer stock off the agenda with winter in Italy on its way!

Finally we found a 2nd hand table with a wide choice (summer stock) for 50c a piece, so brought two for that price to ensure one is useable (or at least fits)

We then detoured into the antique market streets

A stall of retro furniture set up as a room

Chrystal chandeliers! (Or glass maybe)

Paintings and frames

Figurines and statues

And lamps and lights in many shapes and colours!

A very colourful and interesting part of the market and some very unique pieces of art and collectables. I guess it’s lucky I am only travelling, this trip, with a carry on bag – no room for extras.

We wandered back and had a bite to eat, at a local kebab place, and home to put these travelling feet up! (8.30am to 3.00pm – a little more than a couple of hours for Sue!) I’m sure that is not a surprise to those who know me!

It’s Tourist Time in Rome

Having purchased our €24 unlimited transport pass for 7 days, three days ago, we finally got off footing it and caught a 7.15am tram to the Colleseum (to beat the crowds!

The morning sun catching the top of this magnificent architectural structure. NO people at 7.30 as it doesn’t open until 8.30am! Time for a coffee and pretty much first (we were 10th in the queue) – Jaxon would be proud of us!

Janine and her family rocked in, on schedule, just a little after 8am and we decided to take an English (Italian tour) which included the Colosseum, the Roman Forem and Palentine hill ( all three sites)

A great decision as our guide ‘Nico’ was a hive of information about the events of the Colosseum – The life and times (and battles) of animal (elephant, tigers, bears and many more), gladiators (teams and individuals). He was armed with a book (written by himself) with many pictures of how it used to be! (Which was very helpful to visualise how it all transpired!)

The inside of the now crumbling structure and

Through an archway on the upper level looking back at Palentine hill.

Alana, Janine and Luke waiting for the next part of the tour, the Roman Forem,

Jill and Russ taking a more leisurely approach to the interval!

Then off to the best part…The Roman Forem (the ancient Roman hub of the government, including Julius Caesar, and where the Roman Empire and its reaches were run from)

Aerial view of the city ruins from high up on the Palentine Hill lookout

The business street – shops and trade area

Remains of one of the basilica alters (and Russ)

Courtyard area lined with marble statues

Sue with one of the more intact statues (only an arm missing)

All that is left standing of another Basilica!

While a lot of this historical site looks like lots of broken bricks and marble, it is thanks to Napoleon and his team of architects restoring this, having been totally covered with silt, sewage water over many hundreds of years, that so much of the city is uncovered and one can see the layout and foundations of what was once a fantastic city!

A late lunch and by now a very hot afternoon! We left the other kiwi travellers and Jill, Sue and Russell headed to the Chariot race track

Maybe the first horse racing in history?

Enjoying a nice cool drink before we left Jill to go join another evening tour! She went one direction – Russ and Sue heading home and off to catch another tram!

Back to our local for a cool beer – Sue needing to use the bathroom

And this happened! Life is just full of surprises!

The paths less travelled

Friday morning in Rome and the sun was shining – a few household chores completed and a cappuccino at our local with Russ, who had a rest day planned.

Jill and Sue took off to retrace yesterday’s steps in hope of retrieving the very expensive prescription sun glasses lost on earlier travels!

A very colourful roadside florist (and Jill) basking in the morning sunshine!

A bit of a flurry and…

The Italian military police are on a mission! (I guess they were also looking for Jill’s glasses!)

Alas the Sunglasses hunt was unsuccessful and we decided to head to the boutique shopping areas

Across the Tiber river and into the thick of it! Expensive boutiques, and lots of tourists!

An out of the way coffee garden for refreshments around 1pm (and a toilet stop as no public toilets in Rome)

Then off in search of the Jewish quarter! A small diversion (wrong turn) and here we are..

The Jewish museum and Mosque

Sue taking a little shade under the palms, then walking the back streets into the Jewish ghetto (an area of Rome where all Jews were rounded up to live in the 1500s and from which the Nazis send more than 1000 Roman Jews to concentration camps in the 2nd world war, few returned).

We chanced to find ourselves at the back of the Theatre Marcello (which we had passed from the other side yesterday)

Jill is framed by Roman architecture

Sue and the back of the Theatre Marcello.

Around in another circle to head in the homeward direction we passed…

The bicycle street park! And possibly the most efficient mode of transport!

Over the Ponte (bridge) Fabrico

Which crosses to Tiber Island in the middle of the Tiber River (this image is of the maternity hospital where all true Italians are born , evidently, on Tiber Island) only to get caught in police scuffle (about 10 running officers)

Arresting and packing up illegal street hawkers before they can get away. (Still no sign of Jill’s glasses)

This called for a gelato on Tiber island before crossing another bridge to our side of town..

We then decided to take the scenic route along the lower side of the Tiber river – heading in our home direction.

Sue blending in with the local street art under the bridges. One or two other humans passed us on our 5km hike in the burning sun with lots of weeds, rubbish and abandoned bikes. Not to mention numerous “Homeless” homes built into the vines and growth, beside, above and below!

Finally, Jill and Sue a little frazzled, thinking we were never going to find a way back up into civility, and having already passed under our recognised over bridge , we found a way back….(with a sigh of relief and sore feet)

Through someone’s homeless home! At least we would have had company (and relative comforts of home) if we hadn’t been able to get back! When in Rome….

The unexpected from day to day adding to the wanderers adventures!