Wandering back home

Last day in Paris was filled with packing, lunch with Sally and a very fast uber ride to our airport hotel…130k in a 50k area! Then a little issue of the driver adding an extra charge…which super sleuth Sue found and argued until refund was paid back! A trap for virgin travellers…always check the uber charge!

A very comfortable night in the Ibis airport hotel and I left my travel buddy to head on my journey home…she was leaving later in the day!

I arrived back in NZ (home) around midnight on Wednesday….and spent Thursday unpacking my life out of a suitcase and catching up with family!

Friday I launched into the list of jobs to do…WOF and Rego on my old cortina – and my first sick baby day, Saturday a Tyler Gran’ma day….cooking a roast for a family dinner! and polishing the Cortina for its first spring outing on Sunday!

A cruise to coffee and Cars in Snells Beach and a Father’s Day Breakfast…

A little Chilly as a cold westerly wind blew in, but the girls (mine and Dans cortina) were glowing….My co-pilot (Tyler – mr 4 year old) riding shotgun, with his shades!

Unfortunately, the spring flu got him too and I had both the Boys (Tyler and Henry) on Monday and again Tyler yesterday!

However the sun shone for a bit and with one kid, did manage to tame the lawns !

Again today on Gran’ma duties….this is a nasty cold that is hitting the troops around here…but will do an early morning run to stock up on gardening supplies …. In case we get a break in the weather…yes it’s raining and chilly!

So my return has been a whirlwind of life at home!! Babies, cars, gardens, washing and cooking (that’s a bit of a shock after not really cooking for three months)

On the move again

Thursday in Fumel found us dodging rain showers – as we walked to the weekly monsempron – libos market….full of produce and other market items….luckily we had just taken shelter at the cafe for our coffee break as the inky rain of the day came down…then back home to tackle bag packing, ready for our departure on Friday!

That done…yawn…we once again set off on foot for a final shop at the Fumel commercial centre….I know we will kick ourselves when we are back home having resisted the fabulous shoe purchases!

A grand finale with Kevin and Roland at the pizza restaurant in Fumel….treating ourselves to a pina colada before sharing a pizza and lashing out on a desert!

The next morning we did the final pack and went with Roland to purchase our lunch for the train and a coffee, and embarking on our last Train journey to Paris…..little train from Monsempron to Agen, time for a coffee and then on the 359km per hour train to Paris….leaving Monsempron at 1.17pm ETA Paris 7.07pm!

View from the window!!!! Rainbows and windmills….somewhere between Bordeaux and Paris!

Thunderstorms predicted for the day, we smugly congratulated ourselves how, in our travels, we had avoided the promised downpours! …… that was a “spoke too soon” moment….even though time wise all had gone to plan and we arrived on schedule…but weather wise our luck had run out!

We emerged from the Paris Montparnasse station as the heavens opened up….scrabbling for the plastic ponchos, trying to find shelter with about 500 other people on the street to order a taxi, while traffic jams ensued, rivers ran down the streets, ponchos ripped and every uber or bolt we ordered cancelled on us as they could not get near the train station!

Tired and drenched….bags and humans….we decided the best plan of attack was to get away from the station and try again for a taxi!

An hour after arrival we finally had some success and were collected by a very kind driver, who understood our (wet) misery and cranked up the heater for our ride! Arriving at my friend Sally’s two hours after setting foot in Paris by 9pm!!! After a dinner and drink with Sally it was off to bed….dry and relieved to be at our Paris home for the weekend….Carolyn’s first visit to Paris, weather permitting, a busy couple of days were planned….

Saturday, we sorted, with Sally’s help, a day transport pass and off we went by bus to our first attraction….The Arc de Triomphe de l’Étoile, often called simply the Arc de Triomphe, it is one of the most famous monuments in Paris, France, standing at the western end of the Champs Élysées —the étoile or “star” of the juncture formed by its twelve radiating avenues.

We consequently set off down the Champs Élysées (road) with all the star studded branded shops, posh cars, and expensive cafes…

The wind had come up (but no rain) and Carolyn found even the plants were having bad hair days!!!

The Louis Vuitton store….a silver treasure chest of fashion….encompassing an entire block!

We reached the end of the 1.9 Km street to be greeted by ….

The Grand palace known as the Grand Palais, a historic site, exhibition hall and museum complex ….and opposite….

The Petit Palais which is an art museum. Built for the 1900 Exposition Universelle, it now houses the City of Paris Museum of Fine Arts

Colourful art work….

Ladder on the Grand Palais and tulips in the gardens behind the Petit Palais….in these quiet gardens we took a moment to sit and enjoy our pre bought lunch sandwich’s….in an otherwise hectic area of must sees for every tourist in Paris, these gardens were very quiet and uninhabited!!!

As we stepped out to the….

Place de la Concorde, the largest public square in Paris, France. Measuring 7.6 ha in area! Teeming with tourists, buses, taxis and bikes! All foot traffic making a beeline for the Tuileries gardens….

 Created by Catherine de’ Medici as the garden of the Tuileries Palace in 1564, it was opened to the public in 1667 and became a public park after the French Revolution….it currently hosts the large Olympiad cauldron, monument produced last year for the Paris Olympic Games!

As one emerges from the gardens you are treated to the spectacle of The louvre (art museum) the home of the Mona Lisa….and finally out to the water…

The Seine river and one of its many bridges which span the river at regular intervals..

With riverboat sightseeing cruises whizzing past continuously! Quite a water highway in the summer season!

We walked a couple of kilometres along the river to our next destination….the Notre Dame Cathedral…

This Gothic style Roman Catholic Church, sits on the end of the Ile de la Cite (an island in the middle of the Seine river) Its construction began in 1163, completed in 1260….and through the centuries was modified and maintained until a fire in 2019 severely damaged it and forced its closure (for extensive repairs) until December last year….consequently a very popular tourist attraction now it has reopened, with crowds of humans queuing for hours to get inside….these two humans were happy to view from the outside as the afternoon was waning, we were still dry despite the threatening black clouds….and we still had one more crucial site to visit!….

The Eiffel Tower….still the most outstanding monument in Paris!

We were bag and body searched and gained access to the land beneath the tower…choosing not to test our vertigo and climb or ascend to its high viewing platforms!

Bearing in mind there is a link here to the sleepy country town of Fumel (where we had just spent the last week)….and this is the steel!

Some of the steel for this magnificent construction was supplied by the now closed steel mill (in Fumel) which opened in 1847 and closed in 2018…..and at its peak, in the 1970s, employed 3000 workers daily!

Enough of the history spiel….it was nearing the end of the day and we still had a two bus ride back home….10 kms footsore and ready for some R&R!

Carolyn’s R&R meant chatting to her new boyfriend Bert (Sally’s budgie) who instantly fell in love with her and chatted away for the evening!

Day two in Paris….again threatening rain, but again not eventuating…..meant plan B was not needed…and after a stroll around the local market and lunch, Carolyn and I took the bus to the Place de Clichy at the foot of the famous perch of the Sacré-Cœur Basilica, which sits on the top of Montmartre and overlooks all of Paris city…

Opting for the final climb to the top by cable car, we joined the crowds, once again, to soak up the views over Paris….

Even on a cloudy day….this is impressive….a little more excitement than we anticipated, as we happened to be in the path of the illegal hawkers selling there wares, who, we gathered, had been alerted to police presence and scooped up their blankets and tacky souvenirs and fled (on foot) weaving in and around the surprised tourists (us included) at breakneck speed!

The romantic notion of padlocks has migrated(from the Seine river bridges) to the fences bordering the plaza surrounding the church!

We walked around the cathedral and down through the busy cobbled streets of the hilltop town of Montmartre…

Stopping for a beer, toilet and people watching at one of the street side bars!….

The place (terrace) where, 15 years ago, was full of budding and struggling artists painting and selling their work….has now been mostly overtaken with cafe seating and only a small area designated to artists ….. mostly offering to draw or sketch your caricature or portrait! Kind of sad really as this area was dedicated to the art culture of Paris and now houses mostly souvenir shops and eating places….a total tourist trap! While still cute….it does retain its quaint buildings and architecture!

Meandering down the cobbled streets once more to the Place de Clichy we caught our bus home…to watch the Sunday inorganic collection from the terrace…

Not really a focus to be honest, but interesting that every Sunday any thing from large furniture to appliances to broken suitcases etc can be dumped on the street to be collected!

It now off to sleep to enjoy our last day in Paris tomorrow!

Eating the French way

Exploring the Lot and surrounding villages in the south west of France has incorporated a varied experience of eating…or so it feels as our tummy’s are extending with the lunch time menus followed by pastries, cheese and baguettes for an evening snack….

However this has meant visits to many of the surrounding villages …. And seeing the place while we are here!

Monday was threatening rain…slightly overcast as we set off towards our luncheon destination….

Across the newly restored (red) bridge into the small village of Touzac

This being a one lane two way, plus bicycles and walkers bridge….meant Kevin had to stop clear of the bridge and I walked back onto it…

The calm before the storm? looking back up the river towards the lock…

And sharing the bridge with numerous vehicles racing across….red means go as fast as you can here in France!

As all restaurants in France open sharply at midday and close at 2pm – there is a small window for eating, we were a little early at the riverside venue for today’s degustation, so we stopped and strolled through the village of Grezels…

The Main Street was partly closed as road works are happening (but not on a Monday!) and the town was almost like a ghost town…

The church….high on the hill…

And steps devoid of handrails…

While many old stone buildings are showing their age, this house stood out as having been given some love recently….however, the only sign of life here we saw were…

Butterflies and bees…and a very old lady on the stone bridge as we headed back to the car….praying for us….bless her….maybe she was telling us not to overeat!

We now were on time for the lunch rush….and arrived at the riverside cafe….in the middle of a field along with other people who seemed to come from nowhere…but first a cappuccino….

Carolyn made the mistake of asking for a cappuccino not Cafe crème…and of course received her coffee Sunday!!!

Here there was a set lunch menu…as with a lot of French lunchtime options…mushroom soup, followed by a charcuterie plate, main course of a stuffed tomato, and dessert! All devoured within a very short period….the sun had come out…

As we ate and watched kayakers racing down the river….needless to say we rolled out of the restaurant and into the car….for a scenic drive home…through the old town of ….

Puy l’Eveque….with its colourful umbrella Main Street…again very quiet after the holiday period now nearing the end of August.

The view from the terrace at the top of town

We then headed to supermarket and home for an afternoon nap after our huge lunch…

Tuesday was BBQ day at home with friends of Roland’s from Australia…which meant another trip to the supermarket …. Hoping the predicted storms held off, which they did until a slight shower in the late afternoon…

Yesterday was lunch outing (no surprises) with another friend in the area …. Carolyn and I decided to take a walk before eating and walked along the riverside to Fumel town…poking around in a couple of shops until Kevin and Roland collected us at 11.30am

Fumel once again under the threat of storms…

Lunch was in a Thai restaurant at Prayssac…another village closer to Cahors…on the menu Ondina (their friend) chose frogs legs….

A lot of work and lots of legs!

We then dropped her home to her village of Castlefranc and had a grand tour of her garden…

Red sunflowers!

And 3 metre high sunflowers – one stem with many heads!!!

Castlefranc is on a subsidiary river that runs into the lot river….and a wander from Ondinas house took us through and past some very picturesque quaint (and old) lanes and bush and houses.

The main road and bridge through this village is about to be closed for refurbishment…can take a few years….

So that means Ondinas sleepy little lane will become the main route!

Upon leaving Ondinas we headed up the other side of the river to the village of Albas…perched precariously high on a rock cliff above the river…

Albas highs…

And lows…at water level the dam

And beach area…there are a few designated swimming areas along the riverside where there is no current!

Once again the promised thunderstorms had held off and arriving home at 5pm, we spent a pleasant couple of hours in the garden…until it wasn’t….the rain has come down overnight and the thunder is still rolling…this doesn’t bode well for the weekly market in the nearby (walkable to) town of Monsempron!

Lot Et Garonne take two

Leaving Toulouse (Friday morning) on the regional train with all our luggage, the first ride was uneventful…until we arrived at Agen, the station where we change to the little train to Monsempron libos and back to Fumel familiarity, for me at least! Carolyn’s first foray into France and out the windows were the fields of, now ready for harvesting, tournesols (sunflowers) ….. bending their drying out heads in the still slightly overcast day. I still cannot imagine how sunflower oil is extracted from these dry old seeds!

So after a seamless, on time, two hour train ride we disembarked in Agen, and (due to line maintenance) our little train for the final leg was cancelled! Lucky I am aware that if this happens (as it can do quite often) a bus is put on as replacement… however no one at the train station could provide any information as to which bus or where it exactly left from. So we hung around the bus terminal for a hour with a number of other confused passengers…asking every bus (driver) that pulled in if they were going to Monsempron-Libos…. Eventually we struck gold and along with three other passengers, boarded the full size coach….taking a very scenic (longer) route to our destination…

Seeing the other side(from the road) of the train stations, this was the war memorial at Penne station….the one that tripped me up on my way to Malta a couple of months ago…when the homeless man disrupted the journey!

Well….by the time we arrived in Monsempron-Libos….we were the only two passengers on this massive bus….our fellow travelers having left en route!

We were pleased to arrive at Kevin and Rols house for a late lunch and settle into our abode for the week….

Yesterday, there was a planned road trip…..Gourdon in the Dordogne area, north of the Lot region, is a small city that originated during the Middle Ages ….and, as with all medieval villages, built on a hilltop! Kevin and Rols dropped us (Carolyn and I) in the centre of town while they zoomed off to check out some car parts….

First stop was to find the pubic loos (signposted as WCs)…. Which were a steep climb up through cobbled streets and were rather unsavory…but needs must…we then relaxed and wandered around the town…

Fascinated by the local wares, none of which we needed, until we stumbled on the Saturday street market…eureka!

Carolyn having a poke around in one of the many handmade jewellery stalls…as we wandered the closed streets…then the second half of the market was local produce….cheese, bread, fruit and veges, condiments….and many other unfamiliar eating options…again nothing we really needed (mindful of the heavy bag journey ahead of us at the end of the week!)

We had just sat down for a (very nasty push button machine made) cappuccino when the boys contacted us to say they were back…so we met up and explored a bit more of the older town…

Church doors…very old ones!

And of course a church…another very old one!

Tall fortresses…yes you guessed it old!

Narrow streets…donkeys are smaller than cars!

Not so narrow streets (to accomodate the more modern vehicular transport mode) and finally lunch on the market street at one of the many cafes!

Our hosts….post lunch, enjoying the trip to this town that they also had not visited before..quite amazing where old car part hunting takes you really!

Back to the car and home for an afternoon siesta, as the temps rose to the mid thirties! Roland was off to work in the evening and us three: Kev, Carolyn and Sue enjoyed the evening in garden chewing the fat …. Actually sipping cool drinks!

As the sun went down around 9.30pm…

Waking up this morning to another glorious summer day (cool morning) , breakfast done, washing done, Rols off to work and the terrific three went to Le Clerc (supermarket extraordinaire)….stocking up on wine, beer, nibbles and pastry treats….yes several options! Kevin then dropped Carolyn and I to the Fumel Castle….for Carolyn’s first real view of the village and the lot river…

The giant untouchable deck chair in the middle of a grassed area that one cannot walk on or consequently sit on!!!

The gardens of the castle very green and lush despite the very hot summer behind them…I suspect a very efficient watering system is at play!

There she is…from the castle terrace overlooking the Lot River and the environs of Fumel…just like a postcard!

And east towards Cahors were the river continues to meander through a number of villages, both east and west… covering a distance of 485kms…

Not to get lost in the greenery, Sue sporting her new (€1) red shorts soaking up the sights of the peaceful valley…

Meanwhile, Carolyn is enjoying the artistic floral planters full of dahlias and petunias! …. And blending somewhat more into the greenery and environment!

We left the castle and wandered down to the Brit hotel through stone archways….

And rooftop terraces….meeting Kevin (who had dropped our groceries home) for lunch on the hotel terrace…

A mere Lunch Plate…with chicken, salad and scalloped potatoes….no not to share! We had one each!

After which I suggested a riverside walk…however Kevin suggested (a less energetic) tourist visit to bonaguil castle…not far from town …. But a drive….

We rounded the corner and stopped for the photo opportunity as she rose up the hill in front of us….another medieval piece of local history!

Kevin dropped us at the top (lucky us as we saw some very hot, puffing people making the trek uphill) and we only had to walk down through the village….

Being careful not to slip on the shiny cobblestones!

Half way down a big gate was open and we sneaked in to view the castle ruins from the front field…and take in a view if the village below from the stoned wall…

Kevin was waiting down there somewhere to collect us…and we headed home, mid afternoon, for a feet up as the day had heated up and temps were well and truly, once again, in the mid 30s!

My tour buddies, I suspect, have been napping…while I have been writing you this story….its now 5 O’Clock in Fumel and I’m sure most of you know what that means!

Goodbye Malta Hello France

The wanderers have arrived in Toulouse….not without some effort I might add!

Yesterday was an overcast 30 something degrees as we scrubbed and mopped our Malta abode, and tried to restore its owners environment for their return in September!

We said our final goodbyes to the locals and cousins and tried for an early night…as alarms were set for a 3.15am rising this morning!

Due at the airport at 4am for a 6am departure…along with the other 20 flights leaving all within an hour! One advantage of leaving first on Ryanair there is less chance of flight delays!

We set foot on French soil at a little after 8am ready for lunch! Well almost ….. but first deposit our 20kg suitcases at the hotel before midday check-in and our morning coffee!

The morning was damp and the temperature a mere 17 degrees….but pleasant for exploring …that is after the first cappuccino….small mistake on my part, I should have ordered a cafe crème, as a French cappuccino is served with a shot of coffee and three quarters of a cup of whipped crème…nevertheless the shot of coffee gave us a boost for a morning of walking!

Toulouse is the fourth largest city in France, close to the Spanish border and the Mediterranean Sea in the south, it also hosts the largest European aerospace industry…(our brush with the aerospace environment being our uncomfortable Ryan air flight with a small child kicking the back of our seat all the way) however our wandering took us through, green parks with fountains…

Gothic church spires…

Bricked residential streets….

Intriguing violet boutiques…….we spent a bit of time perusing Galleries Lafayette….numerous floors of overpriced clothes and shoes and handbags ….50% off sales started at €200 euros!!! Definitely a look and don’t touch exercise!

And by 11.30am it was certainly lunchtime…and Carolyn’s first foray into a French bakery…settling for a mini quiche and a baguette for me…half of which I shared, whilst we sat on a street bench! Very French!

Toulouse is a cycling town…every street is divided down the middle one half for cars and one for bicycles, which tend to be the more threatening danger as they appear from nowhere and, as pedestrians, one must cling to the street walls! Carolyn commandeered an errant delivery version.

The architecture had a little more colour than Malta, with impressive brick structures…

The capitol square, sporting hotels, opera house, cultural centre and cafes…

An inland city, Toulouse has the Garonne river running through the city, and a visit to the historical Pont Neuf bridge is a must. It’s construction began in the mid 1500s and was completed in the mid 1600s…

There she is….Looking rather moody on the overcast day…

Standing on the bridge the view to the north and another bridge spanning the Garonne river….

As we had whiled away the morning and it was well after midday (check in time) we meandered our way back to our hotel for a much needed lie flat! Leg sore and eyelids drooping from our early start….

Our heads hit the pillows of our single beds and a much needed nanna nap before we go in search of dinner….

Our 4th floor room with a view is opposite the train station and the street is littered with cafes…so the tired walking legs do not have far to go in search of food…

And we have a terrace, albeit littered with pigeon poo….

Tree lined streets harbouring the cafes….

We have decided that our lucky number is 410….this is the room number here and the same one we had of the 4th floor in Xlendi Bay, Gozo, hotel….coincidence???

Rubbing shoulders with the rich and famous…

Monday was a home day after a busy weekend catching up on some chores and sorting out our “stuff” In my case collecting up seven weeks of life from every corner of the apartment! it was a big job! We finally got to spend time with the neighbours for a cuppa!

Then it was out to dinner, at a great restaurant “Chukkas” in Mosta with some cousins for an entertaining evening of laughs and fun!

This morning was our last day of tourist activities….first (accident) joining the morning mass at the Paola church ….suitably dressed with shoulders covered…

Another ornate environment…with not much of a photo opportunity!

As with the inside, the planter boxes are magnificent on the outside!

We then worked on getting our steps up, to walk to Birgu, this time I took Carolyn on the scenic route through Bormla, where Kevin used to have his old house of character….

The red door is now blue and the convent across the walking street is closed, without the joy of the bustling nuns and the kindergarten they ran at street level…

Twelve years ago I spent two months with mum, and this was my old stomping ground…so I took Carolyn through the side streets into Bormla town…

Not much has changed here, the houses are still inhabited by the locals and the steps are still steep!

A short break for the now habitual coffee, at Rouge cafe, on the way and a loo stop before boarding a Luzzu (small Maltese boat) for the Grand harbour cruise at the gates to Birgu…

Perfect day for it….slightly overcast and the water like glass!

The jungle of (small) yacht masts barely moving in the still morning….I say small, but in comparison to the super yachts now returning to their moorings they are dinghy’s….

The driver of our little boat said this big girl is owned by the owners of “Rolex” – I can find no reference to them owning a superyacht, however a one of this magnitude may have privacy measures linked to the general public’s search!

We joined an Englishman, his daughter and grand daughter….in our little boat and circumnavigated the Grand harbour, taking in the sights of Fort St Angelo, Fort Kalkara, Firt Rinella, Valletta and the dry docks between Bormla and Paola from the sea ….. our driver did not like talking (he said it makes his throat sore and I told him he was in the wrong job) and I once again became the tourist guide telling Carolyn what I knew of the area – the English folk thanked me for the commentary, and I was tempted to collect the tips!

Carolyn wanted one last visit to Valletta…so we left the tour on the Valletta side and took the lift up to Upper Barrakka Gardens….for the best view of the grand harbour….this time the wine festival kiosks and roped off areas had gone and we could take in the view from all sides…

Last year at the wine festival I had a little mishap…

Fainted in this very spot…a much healthier re-creation!

Leaving the gardens into the city, the horses and carriages were resting up patiently waiting for their home time at 1pm

Yes his name was George….I call all these horses George, as the only one I have ever ridden years ago was called George…I asked this one’s owner the name and sure enough this little beauty is George! Rules have changed – they must take them home at 1pm as they are not allowed to operate in the hot afternoons!

We wandered down into the city and ended up at a Maltese bar for refreshments…upon ordering our drink, we were also supplied with an assortment of Maltese snacks…

Carolyn’s joy at her interesting lunch snacks may be a little overrated!

Mid afternoon…temperatures rising, 10000 steps behind us….it was time to take our bus home to Paola for the afternoon siesta!

The activity across the road, finished for the day….as we rescued our crisp dry washing from the terrace and enjoyed our afternoon snooze!

Tomorrow is our last day in Malta, and a cleanup, deck was, car wash day….but now to enjoy the church bells ringing the early evening away!

So much to See!

Old cities, tourist meccas , ferry rides, waterhole swimming, breathtaking cliffs, churches, green spaces, brown spaces… it all becomes a must do must see for Carolyn as the days race by!

The day after returning from Gozo was a maintenance and rest day…almost…but still included a bit of garden maintenance, washing, food shopping, car washing and street cleaning!

Friday was the Public Holiday of St Maria, our lady of the assumption…meaning the belief that the Virgin Mary, after her earthly life, was taken body and soul to heaven (in the catholic faith)

Anyway, in layman’s terms this means…the Maltese people celebrate with feasts and fireworks and the tourists do what tourists do….swim, eat, drink, shop and generally try not to melt in 35-40 degree temperatures!

With so much still for my visitor to see and time running out, I put on my tourist guide hat and Carolyn wound up her walking legs…although she didn’t know it at this point….

Public holidays here means little to public transport operators and we started our day with a bus ride to Valetta ….

Walking legs winding up, down through the northern side of the capital city residential areas…

Steep streets of above ground Valetta…

To catch the Valetta to Sliema ferry at 9.30am…

A welcome 15 minute respite of sitting time in the coolness of sea breeze and sea air….to the busy tourist area of Sliema, bathed in the morning sunshine!

A buzzing jungle of high rises, construction, tourist shops (and confused hot tourists) and cafes …. We had a meeting further up the bay with my friend Charles for coffee at 10! No time to linger….it was a brisk 20 minute walk up hill and downhill through the narrow side streets taking the most direct route, arriving at the venue en pointe, gasping for fluid and dripping with sweat! Luckily Charles had secured an inside table in the air conditioning where we chatted and cooled down for an hour or so….

This is where the tour turned into a more leisurely (?) pub crawl, as Charles headed off to his swimming date and Carolyn and I embarked on the coastal trail back towards Sliema!

We left Balluta bay, after our coffee break, the bathers bobbing around in the sea….and strolled under the patches of shade southbound around the waterfront…half an hour later(felt like 3 hours in the heat) we stumbled, conveniently across a kiosk serving 2 for one cocktails….

How could we not! Adding to our pina colada tasting across the island …and cooling off directly in front of the fan!

We needed to keep up the fluid intake as we continued south to Tigne Pointe shopping mall. Mainly for the air conditioning and a restroom stop! This four level shopping mall was teeming with tourists and Maltese locals all escaping from the heat outside..not really our scene but needs must, we circled the four floors to lower the body temperature before stepping out into the heat once again….arriving at Sliema around 1.30pm to look for something to eat and more fluid! All cafes were full, noisy and expensive, not at all relaxing…. we chose to suck it up and bus back to our quieter town of Paola..before plonking ourselves down in the centre square cafe for a cold beer (this time) and a pizza to snack on and bring home for our lunch/dinner!

Over 12000 steps, up and down in the heat and a couple of buckets of fluid loss, the homeward trek, which is not very far, was a test….we lay flat for an hour, threw ourselves under the shower, put on our frocks and then flagged the evening fiesta plans! Unanimously settling for a quiet drink on the terrace while listening to the fiesta fireworks…and making plans for today’s tourist activities…

Up with the birds….and cross country to Ghar Lapsi to join the locals for an early morning swim .. at 8am!

The locals had set up camp for the day and were already bobbing and chatting in circles in the sea!

We weaved around them, did a little breaststroke, floated on our backs and lowered the body temperature before rinsing off and climbing back up to the car!

The holiday baches and boats completing the picture!

Next stop Dingli cliffs …

Where the sea meets the island on the rugged side as the rock of Malta rises from the sea…

One more tourist attraction planned for the morning was a visit to the mosta church…the third largest unsupported church dome in the world and the largest Maltese church, renowned for its war escapade when a German bomb came through the church dome in the middle of a congregation and didn’t explode! This dome is visible rising above the town of Mosta from many areas on the island.

En route, the English 100 year rule is still evident with the redundant phone boxes!

Water fountains on the piazza providing a cooling moment and a bath for the pigeons!

A moment of awe before entering… and wrapping our shoulders…then stairs…

We were directed to the stone stairwell to climb to the start of the dome… yesterday’s leg workout was once again tested….as we ascended to the viewing circle high above the church floors!

This was a bit of a vertigo moment for both of us, as we gazed over the grand hall of the church below the dome!

Then we descended through another snail like circular stairwell to enter the church at street level! The up and down of Malta life!

As this town was the biggest feast location of St Mary yesterday, our lady was in pride of place in the middle of the congregational seating…,

And the walls were adorned in red velvet and all the silverware and gold was on display at the alter and around the alcoves of the church!

Of course no tour of the mosta church is complete without spotting the illustrious “Bomb”

With the planned morning activities complete we called in at the cousins for a drink and chat!

One more attraction on our way home…the San Anton botanical gardens…this enclosed garden and adjoining palace dates back to 17th Century when it was used as the venue for diplomatic affairs and the palace currently serves as the official residence of the President of Malta…

While touted as a must see venue in Malta, this afternoon we practically had the place to ourselves and we enjoyed the coolness of the tree shade and fountains as we strolled around enjoying this oasis of flora and greenery

Upon entry one is greeted with the first monument and fountain

These fountains are also a haven for the pigeons, ducks and other bird life cooling their feet and wings!

Archways and trees provide human shade as one meanders along the cobbled pathway!

This garden historically housed a number of exotic birds….the odd peacock still wandering around!

Time for our daily meal mid arvo we completed our day on the Senglea waterfront and settled into Alice Springs cafe for a hearty meal of Fish and Chips!

As we were sitting enjoying our meal…the clouds rolled in and thunder started clapping… by the time we left the skies had opened up, the streets were rivers and the car got another wash!!!! By all accounts we were lucky, some parts of Malta were pummelled with hail (this would not have been kind to Vivienne) The first rain in two months…it lasted about 30 minutes and rolled on to its next destination! As did we for an afternoon nap!

Gathering Gozo Memories

Day two Gozo island has been a big one….we started with a full cooked breakfast, included in our hotel deal….packed up Vivienne….and headed out around 9.30am….first stop Ta Pinu Church – it is a Roman Catholic minor Basilica and national shrine…

Beating the tourist buses and catching the end of a mass service we entered the sanctuary of the church…

Yet another example of the beauty and wealth of the Maltese churches..

Marble floors, oil paintings and shrines…

Also a very modest environment where we had to wear shawls over our shoulders and wraps around our shorts..

We then returned to the craft village for Carolyn to exchange her book, only to find the shop had closed for the next three days for the upcoming St Maria celebrations … oh well, she has 10 days in France and may embrace the French language (which is what her current book is written in)

Continuing in the same direction we carried on to Dwejra bay, a unique place that has an inland sea, from where we hopped on a little dinghy type boat and motored out through a cave to the open sea…

An area of Gozo coastline…with towering cliffs and coastal caves…

Blue seas

And quite a wave…which made Carolyn a bit queasy…

The skipper quite informative as he rolled us in and out of the caves…

Back through the narrow entrance…rolling through as the sea swells pushed us!

Temperatures rising rapidly…and a climb up to our car meant it was refreshment time and loo stop before circumnavigating the end of the island to our next point of interest…the 350 year old Xwejni salt pans (3 kms along the coast)

With three months of no rain….the rocks are full of dried salt ready for harvesting…

The girls not so dry however, dripping wet with sweat…and so ready for a swim… back in our little car, airconditioning working overtime and straight to Marsalforn for dip in clear blue sea!!! Another place that is the home to French and English tourists for their summer break…hope Carolyn was taking note …. So she can maybe read some of her new book!

The next leg was somewhat challenging, as mrs google took us up a country road, where we both leaned forward feeling we might tip backwards….Then down one so steep that I had to use the handbrake as well as foot brake!!! It was certainly the cross country route on the way to Mixta cave overlooking the golden sands of Ramla Bay….

Down into the cave and the opening framing this beautiful beach…

As close to the edge as one dared…

The vista of the beach and the turquoise sea…at least in the cave it was cooler and a little respite from the heading towards what felt like 40 degree temps in the direct sunshine…

Rubber jandals and slides not ideal for rock climbing but carefully we clambered our way out!

Not a cloud in the sky, the salt from our sea swim crusting on our skin…and sticking to our clothes, sweat dripping into eyes and ears…the big sights of Gozo ticked off…time to head back to the ferry terminal for our sea and land journey back to our home in Paola!

With a couple of hours in the tourist Mecca of Bugibba (in the north) on our drive back to visit with some cousins! An ice cream sundae kept the wolves from the door until we arrived home at 7pm…. Carolyn has showered, I have not….next on the agenda! Travel weary and with lots of new memories to keep!

Girls on Tour

Here in the heat haze of the Mediterranean (Maltese) summer the sun rises and the sun sets with an orange sky! And every day feels like a Sunday! (SUN Day)

However, Sunday actually took us back to Valletta to go underground….closed shoes, Hard hats (and hair nets) and headlight torches….we joined the tour of the WWII shelters, where the Maltese people spent three years in and out of these stone caves under the city of Valletta….as the most bombed country in the world was almost destroyed! A journey into the world of the families that survived the trauma of living in the damp, claustrophobic underground tunnels that originally served as the water reservoirs of the city of Valletta since the 16th century.

A humbling experience….sunday afternoon was the family Sunday late lunch with the cousins…very delicious as usual!

Monday found us with a few admin tasks to do….post office courier collections, washing as no rock cutting in process across the road and ….

A bit of plant maintenance…Carolyn got to work on the dead yukka leaves…a hangover from the drought (failed watering system) that preceded my arrival! Sad to say the fruit trees are still not showing any sign of life!

This morning (Tuesday) saw the beginning of our side trip to the northernmost Maltese Iskand of Gozo. We left home at 7am and caught the car ferry, arriving in the capital city of Gozo, Victoria at 9am…straight to the dusty carpark near the Citadel and walked down into the township for our (long overdue) morning coffee!

Before the crowds, who are this week descending on Victoria for the St Maria festival and public holiday on Friday…we spent a couple of hours wandering the side streets, tourist shops, charity shops, shoe shops and local Maltese shops…until around midday when we headed back up the hill for a wander around the citadella fortress! This is believed to have been inhabited by the Roman’s since the Bronze Age.

The cathedral upon entrance…

Climbing the stone steps to the exterior wall…

The internal remains of the inhabitants dwellings…

And the view from the wall to the northernmost coast towards Marsalforn.

From here we drive to DBeigi craft village, where Carolyn purchased a Malta/Gozo coffee table book….only to realise later, it is the French version…so tomorrow we will be visiting this attraction again!

The afternoon was getting very hot and the gals were drenched in sweat, so any further tourist attraction visits were aborted, as we headed to our destination for the evening….St Patrick’s hotel (seaside view) Xlendi Bay! Possibly one of the most beautiful places in this part of the world!

After a swim, we wandered around the point…before heading back to the hotel (rooftop) terrace for a quiet drink and swim in the pool…until we were both ready for a good hearty dinner….we had already checked out the numerous restaurant menus and settled for the hotel option (as guests we received 10% discount)

After a cocktail in the shade behind the hotel we settled in to our waterfront table for the evening!

The sun had gone behind the cliffs and the temperature had dropped to a pleasant 29 degrees! We both have been craving a good steak and veges (for me), salad for Carolyn…

The tour boats were coming to rest for the evening, people were still swimming, ducks were cruising from one side of the harbour to the other….as we enjoyed our food and refreshments!

Topped off with an Irish (and Baileys) coffee, a glass of wine (with dinner) a mere €3 ($6) and the special coffee $4 ($8) … some things are definitely cheaper here!

She brought the summer!

Carolyn has been here for five days and things are heating up literally…temperatures rising! Yesterday the tourist activities were halved due to these gals wearing out before the day was done…

We did hit Mdina – the silent city, before the crowds. Or did we? A couple of laps of the carpark before a space became available at 9.30am!

First time visitor (Carolyn) to this ancient city one is always overawed with its hilltop location and limestone heritage buildings…, again by 11am it was filling up with tourists! We switched towns to Rabat (across the road) and wandered through the residential side streets towards St Paul’s shrine! And the WWII shelters – next on the agenda!!

Old people we were – children we didn’t have… only people and cats would have fitted down some of these streets!

Gasping for fluid as the walk was little longer than necessary.. we found the Square (and a little more history) in front of the church! The boat people (off the cruise ships) busting out of Mdina into this town too..neither of us felt like going underground … so (reluctantly???) settled for a cool drink and decided a book reading resting afternoon was needed…

This morning, Saturday, we bussed into the capital city of Valletta, again before the crowds! Crossing the bridge and through the walls of Valletta (a city established in the Knights of Malta era in the 1600s)

Upper Barakka gardens is a must see and past the government buildings..this appeared…

A very tacky blue archway(photo opportunity for visitors) spoiling the magnificence of the historic sandstone government buildings!

The view from upper Barakka gardens remains one of the best in Malta! Looking back at the three old cities of Birgu, Cospicua and Senglea!

We were looking forward to a coffee here, but we were assaulted by the wine festival stands and no seats around the usual cafe….standing room only (for tonight) – no wonder I fainted at this event last year! So we moved on and found a side street cafe to sit and enjoy…

Finally a pic with the two of us!!! Some nice passers-by did us the honour and actually took about 10. I might add all of them capturing our best!!! Deeper downtown towards the tip of the city…we walked through archways…

Side streets and odd shops, even I had never seen before…

This (closed) antique shop with about 2 inches of dust on all its wares…,proving how old some of this merchandise is…..and just as the water ran out…we stumbled on a cafe with a rooftop terrace… first beer of the day..,,terrace all to ourselves!

With the view to the entrance of the Grand harbour, where all the cruise ships, super yachts, private boats and tourist tours pass through!

Refreshed after our beer and loo stop, Our walking tour continued towards the lower Barakka Gardens, passing the maltese summe baches on the edge of the city and harbour!

And into the gardens..usually a less travelled destination….however the cruise ships must have added this to their suggestions of “must sees!” and it was teeming with tourists…

Still a nice green area to wander around as we watched the midday fireworks from the middle of the harbour send puffs of smoke into the sky…

We soaked up the welcome shade of the trees and sea breeze…

Both getting a little peckish by this time, we walked along the Harbourside..

Past the traditional Maltese homes with their colourful doors and balconies….back to the ferry to take us to Bormla and our “Rouge Cafe” for lunch!

A Cisk(beer) for me and a chocolate milkshake for Carolyn, we settled back in the shade and under the fan (this keeps the flys away) and our food didn’t come…..we eventually asked after about 40 minutes and the poor girl was so embarrassed she had forgotten, that not only did we receive the platter ordered it was accompanied by a free drink each! Win Win all round!