Last night we went for a walk around 7pm to try and find some air! Still 38degress in the shade – town empty but up by the castle, in the shade…..Petangue!

A village gathering – this was the place to be! Trudi you would have got excited!!!! Not my thing but great to see humans had ventured outside in the heat! Strolling around (in the shade) we found the music amphitheatre of Fumel….

And ducking between trees these ancient specimens

Having stretched the legs it was back to sleep to awaken to a cooler morning….work done and, as it is my last day in France, the boys had a plan..

First stop, buy paint for shutters, and then a picnic lunch to take to the cathedral on the top of a hill in Penne-d’Agenais….

As with all villages in this area – park at the bottom and walk up….

An ancient village on a steep hillside. At the top of the hill above the village is the substantial basilica of Notre-Dame du Peyragude, surrounded by plenty of open areas suitable for our picnic. The basilica is a 20th century construction (built between 1897 and 1948) that attempts to combine elements from roman architecture with elements from the byzantine style: not necessarily in fitting with the French Gothic with its silver dome – but amazing views of the surrounding countryside!

Not quite at the top….but she was a fairly vertical climb so needed a photo break!

And the cemetery on the top of the shill shaped like the front of a ship!

The Basilica through the trees – front side so can’t see the silver dome.

Picnic time – lighten our loads – drinks in my pack and Rols carrying the food!

The view from the basilica to the lower town of Penne-d’Agenais with our LOT river running through.

Inside the church – I had no shoulder covering so just a quick peek of the stained glass windows!

Around the back of the church and we can catch a glimpse of the silent dome!

Underground caves that, from what I could decipher, are ancient burial grounds…we could then climb up further onto the highest rocky point…

Facing the sun and looking down on the Basilica

A little obscured by trees

Here is a panoramic view from the lookout looking up the Lot et Garonne (valley) to Fumel in the distance.

It was then down on hot slippery cobblestones – baby steps so as not to end up in the sitting position!

Gardens and flowers abound this town are just gorgeous with ….

Greenery and colour!

This one we didn’t go up – but again “the plants” the cutest village!

It was then off to the next town to look for more paint (undercoat seems to be in short supply in this part of the world) Villeneuve-sur-Lot – a larger town. The equivalent of Bunnings —— but look

A toilet seat for every occasion! And other bathroom supplies I dare not bore you with!

High on my mind, as we parked and began our stroll around the old town was a coffee – a big one! Any coffees I have managed to find in this area have been Small cups, half full and barely a mouthful!

The town square – and finally a water feature that is flowing – I have seen a lot here but most not active! We sat at the far side under the arches (in the shade) and finally a flat white (large) and full to the brim! The Boys had a panache (shandy)

Walking the block down the old town streets, before the siesta time was over – not many people and lots of abandoned shops – COVID has done it’s damage in this part of the world too!

We returned around 4pm, Kev got on with prep work on his shutters, I attempted to pack a 10kg bag for tomorrows journey – gave up and had a beer, dinner (and desert)! My first train is not until 1pm tomorrow- so have time to work, zip it up, lunch and leave this magical place!

The Lot river begins in the Cévennes mountains, flowing west through Quercy, and our little town of Fumel, and joins the Garonne River near Aiguillon, a total distance of 485 kilometres.

Today we took a 14km cruise on a bateaux from Fumel, gaining a whole new perspective of the French countryside. Luckily Roland booked as full tour (44 people). The Sun on our side as we left Fumel – sun blocked on our right sides! I think I was the only non French speaking Patron and the guide(woman) gave a rolling commentary for the two hours.. useful information translated to me by Roland and Kev. The rest of my story will be the sights from this trip with the odd snippet of info!

We motored out of Fumel – with a 50 horse power Motor? Captain protected from the sun by a turquoise umbrella!

Riverside mansion privately owned – this one we can see from our side of the river.

Under a bridge (newish) build to divert trucks and large vehicles from having to pass through the narrow streets of Fumel – kayaks for hire at rivers edge, a number of which we passed further up on our journey.

This tower is a Gite or holiday home for rent rising out of the rivers edge.

My right side view on the way up was mainly bush as forests, wildlife and the odd kayak…until we arrived at the loch…

Here you can see the dam that holds the water in the higher regions of the river.

About to enter the loch – our end opened and water empties to our level, we enter, this is closed and the other end opens (slowly) and the loch fills up until are at the higher level of the upper side ( this is repeated in reverse on the way back)

It was very hot and airless when closed inside the loch.

It was a happy day for the Tournesols (sunflowers) all turned towards the sky!

A man fishing on the side, actually snagged a small one – big net tiny fish!

Back into the loch on return

Gates closing behind as water let out the other end and lowers us to the river level.

This castle – privately owned, was huge and the information I gathered is that the owner also purchased the land on the other side of the river (to the top of large hill) that is all in forest so that now one could destroy his view!

A perfect Mirror day if you look closely you can see the ducks and geese sheltering in the shade at the waters edge.

A small village out of Fumel (that we rode our bikes through last week)

And near Fumel – which main industry was a steel mill, now closed, this building on the hill and at riverside harboured a cable car which transferred a special mineral (they used in the steel) to boats to be transported to the mill on the other side of Fumel town.

And two hours later – our village on the hill – we are back, Sue needing a bathroom and tummies needing some food! The temperature now showing 38 degrees. The plan this afternoon was to spend it at the local pool, however after a great lunch prepared by Rols, we all decided a lie down in the cool was more favoured!

Today was walk day(mostly). They say you always see more on foot and get the feel of your neighbourhood. This morning I took myself off uphill (rather than down) while it was still coolish.

Narrow little streets – very quiet on a Saturday morning and still plenty of shade to walk in.

Memorial to the soldiers in WW1, over a century ago

In this park at the top of the hill, attempting to keep my bearings turned left to attempt a loop walk!

Side trip through the old cemetery – these are all family graves (like small houses) most adorned with ceramic poppies.

I then wandered past the big more modern high school devoid of life as closed now for the summer two months. With a little help from google maps took another left to head back into the town

Past a sports complex – gates open so took a wander around looking for the rugby ground – none in sight! So not sure what Rugby means on this sign.

Downhill from here – past the cute little houses into the Main Street. Then to the bottom of town to the only Tabac store for supplies – twice the price of Malta! Unfortunately it was then uphill all the way to Kevin and Rols house to meet up for the planned excursion to Bonaguil Medieval Castle set on a hill in forests about 20 minute drive away.

We park at the bottom and I could see there was some serious uphill ahead of me!

Built in the 13th century then modified and extended in the late 15th and early 16th centuries by Baron Bérenger de Roquefeuil, this fortress was never once the target of a military attack, thanks to its impressive defence system. At least an arduous climb only to be confronted with moats and drawbridges…

But first lunch at the cafe, a hamburger on the menu for me – as this midday meal has quickly become my main meal of the day.,.then it was up….

Cobbled streets (through the village) where people live and actually take up cars (small ones)

Quaint homes and hillside gardens!

Roland the photographer as we got to the fortress walls!

More up – water supply (a little green)

The church outside the fort

Accompanying cemetery – I’m getting the feeling cemeteries are all on top of hills in this area!

The fortress walls and where the moat used to be! Highly impassable! Having done our own foot tour we didn’t take the guided one and it was back down (cautiously as the cobbles now heating become very slippery for my Birks)

The view out over the forests and down the valley (from whence we had come) old rusted iron crucifix outside the most wall – without a story for what it was used for!

Back to the car park and these guys…

Goats cheese a very popular product in this region. Kevin then drove us on some more (narrow) country roads. The overcast morning had now broken out into full afternoon sunshine and the Tournesols (fields of sunflowers)now all smiling to the sky. On our way out they had their sad faces on (no sunshine) and all had their heads bowed down. I really understand the meaning of their French name – “turns towards the sun” as when there are full fields you can really appreciate their yellow flowers when the sun is beaming down and the are beaming up!

One thing Russ and I always wanted to do was watch the Tour de France when in this country- today I ticked the box! Kev put on his sports hat and took me to view this phenomenon!

This morning we went grocery shopping at Le Clerc (major sponsor of the race) and they were giving away the red polka dot (king of the mountain) backpacks!

We went back to house, unloaded groceries, had a nice lunch and Kev and I set off for Luzech , 19 kms from the finish of todays (stage 19) race, in Cahors. In good Bonnici fashion – there is always a park at the front – and sure enough we secured a park 500m from the top of a hill climb ….

Right here, well prepared with, chilly bin (water, snacks, aoeta (bitey bugs) and chairs! We were really grateful for the chairs!

Kev holding the fort waiting for the action to begin!

We didn’t have to wait long … Vehicles started rolling through as the “Caravan” of sponsors then raced through the chicane, throwing promotional material to the crowds!

Sue the tourist snapping photos until realising that we were missing out on all the promo items being chucked at us from the vehicles

There was this frantic French woman next to Kevin who was snatching everything that bounced off him – obviously this is a thing and the regulars are well prepared to snatch and grab!

There she is with her backpack full of stuff – ours and hers! Kev and I were very happy with the multi coloured pen, shopping bag, crackers, lollies and washing liquid that landed at our feet and she couldn’t steal!

We then Witnessed a brown eye from a drunk French man and a young lady dressed in nude…. Cycling gear…

Was rather disconcerting in the summer afternoon sports atmosphere! You can all draw your own conclusions here!

Then the action began ! Police, motorbikes with media, race support cars and finally the Athletes…

The leading three followed by the Paleton ….only a few seconds behind

Team Bike Exchange was our chosen one, as sporting two kiwis and three Australians – George Bauer (NZ) the one who had had the altercation with a motorbike and car yesterday.

Not sure if any of these are the Kiwi but this is the team… however it was all over in 20 minutes and none of the leading crew took out the race, after they topped the hill – it was a sprint to the finish line and the Frenchman Christophe Laporte took out todays race!

There he is (at our point) sitting about 12th in the chasing Paleton in the black jersey next to the overall race leader (in yellow) Jonas Vinegrad from Denmark!

With only two more days of racing the word is out that the danish rider has secured the yellow jersey and the victory for 2022!

Not sure why we have a black background, but after an exciting afternoon, laden with our treasures and memories of finally witnessing these amazing athletes, a few nice cool beers to top off a Friday night in provincial Southern France……anything is possible!

Tournesols, the French name for sunflowers – the countryside around this region has fields of them and their French name has a whole new meaning as the follow the sun all day…

It was an early night for me 10pm as the sun went down…and up at 6am to get my work behind me for the day. Planned activity was a bike ride in the other direction to the next town which hosts a large street market every Thursday! We ventured off around 10am (boys on electric – me on manual) down through the steep decent to the bottom of Fumel town. A few speed wobbles as cars and trucks went zooming past me on a road barely wide enough for two Minis to pass! We then cycled on an arterial route (now mainly flat) to the next town…arriving to a buzzing marketplace, with aromas of cheese, bread and fish…

The Place, which fingered out in all directions along all the side streets. Similar merchandise to the street market in Birgu (Malta) that I haven’t made it to yet…..except for the food, fresh fruit and vegetable (from the region), butchers and huge blocks of cheeeses.

Temperatures rising and ready for a sit down and drink, the one cafe on the square was overflowing inside and out!

Enormous pans of hot food cooking away and being dished up in takeaway containers! Last thing, three hot, kiwi,Australian, Maltese humans felt like! So it was on the bike, riding on the shady side back towards our town. All went well (on the flat) until the vertical climb….which entailed a 25 minute uphill push! By this time nothing in Fumel open (all gone home for their afternoon siesta) We three garaged the bikes and walked down to the Brit hotel where we could finally get our coffee!

Out on the terrace, an ice cold beer first, followed by a smorgasbord salad lunch and finally my long awaited coffee

Doing a little car insurance follow up, we finished our lunch by the pool

Looking very inviting and wandered back (up) to our abodes for an afternoon Siesta!

Past the church, very easy to fall into this way of life.. like the Tournesols , following the sun, or in some cases (humans) the shade!

We found a rental car for $200 for 8 days, as the Citroen has gone to the (panel beater) doctors to await the insurance assessor! While I was working this morning – Kevin rode off to commercial area to collect the ride for the next week. Rols washed the Citroen so it looks pristine for its assessment and they both took it away! We caught up for a home lunch around midday and then it was off driving in the “Dasio Jogger” a version of people mover! Heading towards Cahors, the destination for the end of stage 19 of the Tour De France on Friday!

First village stop Puy L’Eveque, another village on the hillside, Lot river running through.

Beautiful old stone buildings

And Rainbow umbrellas adding a touch of colour in the streets below.

First stop was Emaus – the weekly market, Rols favourite, where I managed to spend 11 Euros and a whole new wardrobe! Rols bought a pot for his bathroom.

Following the river through to Cahors – a larger town, more tourists and very little parking, gasping for a drink, temperatures rising to 35 degrees (but much cooler than the last few days), we found a park near the river (still the Lot).

Medieval lock bridge (Pont Valentre) constructed between 1308 and 1378, a bit like modern day construction timeframes!

Whilst wandering along we spied a boat approaching to navigate the lock- took a while, while water is let out this side and then filled up from the other side to allow the boat to pass through!

In she goes, by this time we had found a seat on the hill, ordered coffees and sat and relaxed while watching the prolonged process.

As we were leaving I felt a sting in my armpit and sure enough a wasp had managed to get under my sleeve and done its dirty work – must have been attracted to my crock, deodorant or sweat! Whichever it was rather painful for a bit!

We then drove through the bustling town of Cahors and took the south side route heading back. Already the barriers are going up on the roads for the finish of stage 19 of the Tour De France.

Heading out we realised we were driving the incoming route for the riders and we need to decide our vantage point for Friday!

This could be it – top of the hill at Albi linking over the river and it’s small township – precariously perched on the cliff side!

Back through the villages and a supermarket stop, as I decided it was time for French bread, pate and cheese followed by some French pastries! I have done very well – four days without the French Treats!

Last night it cooled down enough to go for a walk to the castle du Fumel – around 8pm, it doesn’t get dark until 10pm!

In through the gates..

The village with the church spire!

Stone archways

Wildflower gardens (Lexi that’s what we are making)

The view from the terrace overlooking the river

Yours truly enjoying the (warm) breeze

Making the most of the lesser heat closer to 30 than 40 we wandered around the upper town

Looking back up at the castle on the hill! One cool beer and we were off to our respective beds around 11pm. After a chat with the local ladies sitting outside talking away with Kev and Rols (in French) and me just grinning like a Cheshire Cat and nodding!

This morning I did a few hours work and being cooler we opted for a team ride along the riverside to the next town – Kev and Rols on their fabulous electric folding bikes, and me on the non electric one they brought down from Paris! It was down hill through the town and along the riverside mostly flat

No electric needed – we rode for a couple of hours until the sun started peeping through around 11am – temperature rising – then it was a kilometre up hill – boys cruised on up (electric kicking in) and I walked and pushed my bike! Very warm and damp after reaching the garage!

We had a plan for the afternoon – dump rubbish, lunch on the air con and hit the St Vincent de Paul charity shop (only open on Tuesday and Saturday afternoons). The best laid plans….this time thwarted by a road marking machine (on the way to the dump) who suddenly reversed into the car while we were stationary waiting to turn left!

The ledge that Kevin is sitting on is the one that crashed into the front of the beautiful Citroen crushing the lower bumper and rearranging the inside motor bits – bonnet no longer closing! It all happened so fast nothing we could do – the driver of the 3 tonne machine did admit fault but now it’s a waiting game for insurance action! The car still goes but not too far!

I am guessing we will (or at least I will) be getting very fit riding my non electric bike up and down the hills! Or having a lovely rest reading my books – it will be heat dependent!

It seems plumbing (toilet) issues in Malta see me coming. When I was here with mum seven years ago, we had leaks and other nasty things going on with the toilet in the old house and had to enlist the locals assistance,

Friday evening – I thought I could hear a radio on all night, only to realise it was a persistent water drip when I went to clean my teeth on Saturday morning! We had drained the roof tank dry and had no water in showers, toilets, handbasins etc! With Kevin’s direction (from France) George got Higher!

Roof top of the fifth story, to turn off the pump! Quite a good view up here he said!’

Meanwhile the planned date to the Irish pub, to cheer on the All Blacks, was put on hold while we waited for the emergency plumber. Who, true to his Italian word, duly arrived at half time (we had found a cable channel which was playing the game live) . Husband and wife team, very capable, sorted the problem which turned out to be lime in the filter blocking the up and down thing in the toilet cistern!

Water sorted, thank goodness, and cable TV looping on a Dynamo advertisement, so no second half, George and I finally headed out for a late breakfast/lunch….

Was worth the wait! Hunger pangs fed, we went back to the apartment for me to pack for my side trip the next morning leaving at 6am!

Late afternoon dip in the harbour at Senglea, a grocery shop and movie time before an early night!

Alarm went off at 4.30 am and we were out of the house by 5, George driving, and dropped me to the Airtport, back home asleep before I had got through customs!

6am the Maltese airport was sooo busy, the line for coffee about 50 people long, so I decided to forgo that treat for now. The plane was full, heading to Toulouse and being Ryan Air – not a drink in sight for the next two hours! First leg over safe and sound, I proceeded to look for my bus to the train station. This was where it got tricky…ticket machine in French and no one (English speaking) around me I could ask for help. Oh well I pressed the buttons and out popped three pink tickets and I followed some others to a bus – whose driver was outside having a cig! Help! I said and he laughed…then proceeded with his colleague to tell me “this is very bad” pointing at my pink tickets! I must have looked very confused (or blank, now going into coffee withdrawal) as the driver then told me this was the right bus, to get on and gave the ride to me free,

Matabain train station. At least at the right place for my next journey with over an hour up my sleeve… the time (11am) and gasping for that coffee!

Oh I forgot to mention, hadn’t had a bathroom stop since leaving home – but daren’t wander too far from the board that would light up with the platform number only 10 minutes before departure time! I sat for a moment, tipped half my coffee over myself , drank the rest then plonked myself in front of the screen in readiness for the mad dash to the train!

And it was – found my seat (window) with 1 minute to spare and raced off west through the French countryside. Destination Agen, where Kevin and Rols were meeting me!

One stop-, and 1.5 hours later I set foot on solid ground completing the last part of my solo journey!

Thank goodness Kev and Rols had planned on lunch in Agen before the car ride home – had only had half a coffee all day and was both hungry and thirsty!

The town of Agen on a Sunday,

Lunch was followed by a 40 minute (air conditioned) car ride to Fumel – my base for the next 10 days….stopping halfway at village atop of a hill for views and a cold beer!

40 in the shade….

And a sleepy resident cat in the afternoon heat!

The square with a beer!

Back to the village of Fumel by 5ish, settled into my abode and drinks with Kevin and Rols- well mostly Sue and Kevin! Albeit a little dusty this morning (Monday) for the shopping chores! Great kids toys

Molded plastic click together slides and playhouses!

Hiding on my bed this afternoon languishing under a fan – tis 42degrees in the shade and hottest to hit at 5pm!

Welcome to heatwave French style!

Time flys! How easy it is to settle into a new life! Almost three weeks since I arrived in Malta – and I have fallen into a work, play, eat, and rest routine that fits in with this world! Tomorrow o leave for a side trip to France.

After a busy beach afternoon on Thursday, Friday, for me was a quiet, stay at home, finish book afternoon!

George went off with his cousin, exploring more coastlines!

The evening was spent with family at Senglea waterfront cafe for dinner! looking out at the Grand Harbour! And the cruise ships leaving port for their next destination! Slowly slowly tourism is returning to this country – the day before I return from France, the final arrival restrictions are lifted! From the 25th July, one can enter Malta – unvaccinated, no vaccine passport, no proof of recovery certificate, no negative test – no masks! I think there are still infections here, but it’s so open air and outside in the sunshine – you just don’t hear about it.

George with all the girls! Claire looks like she is wearing boots (far too hot for boots) – the lights reflecting through the chairs!

Not too late by Maltese standards – home by midnight! Late night by my early to bed early to rise routine!

Friday was a bit of a catch up day! Work for me, trip planning for George!

A quick trip to St Thomas bay for coffee and a book (English) purchase from the charity shop! I will have no show of finding an English book in France!

The touch up (2 hour) for my Maltese ice cream nails – a little more vibrant than the kiwi version, but much more attention wa given to detail! This exercise was undertaken in a tiny 3×3 salon, two nail technicians, constant stream of customers, and a snoring big fluffy chowchow dog at our feet! Oh and I forgot to mention – great air conditioning – I left with goose bumps!

Today is Rugby day – off to the Irish pub for breakfast! C’mon boys!

Yesterday was another blue sky day on this Rock of Malta – I worked, George gymed, then it was local for the late morning coffee! Tried another cafe and prompt service George was very happy!

We decided to head north to a sandy beach, where we could lie and read in comfort. Laden with supplies, water and beach umbrella (so we didn’t have to hire one) we took to the road in “Vivienne” (the little Subaru).

We headed towards Golden Bay, the tourist hotspot..but chose the beach just south of this, thinking it may be less crowded. Parking was certainly easier! Riviera Bay

There it was, way down there dotted with umbrellas and sun loungers (for hire of course)

‘‘Twas a long way down, lots of steps, no problem, a little anxious about the return journey but gasping for a swim, off we went and set up camp on a piece of sand! Sun blocked head to toe we spent the next couple of hours jumping in and out of the sea (even a little wave), reading and in Georges case enjoying the sights! Young fit people surrounded us!

Not too crowded at the far end (where all the sun loungers weren’t) and very hot golden sand. I could feel the back of my knees burning, even through the sunblock and George was getting hungry so we began the ascent! Oh dear, now I realised why Young fit bodies surrounded us! No shade on the way up, I suggested George go on ahead (mountain goat style) and I would get there when I could.

A few (actually several) stops, near the top I found a little bush (shade) and plonked myself (gasping) down ratting around in my bag for my water and looking calm to all passers by. I regained composure and tackled the last hurdle where George was waiting with car open and really to roll. The air conditioning was a welcome blast!

The road to home via “Rouge Cafe” and a two for one (much deserved) Pina Colada and a hamburger – my dinner, Georges afternoon snack!

One more little hiccup as we drove in, pressed the garage door remote, and the door didn’t go up. The battery must have died! Another in the apartment thank goodness so we could tuck the car safely away for the night!

Showers and book reading for the evening was all we (Me actually) could muster.