Adventures in the Rain

So Malta has now decided to remind me that it may be time to head to the Southern Hemisphere for summer.

At 8am thunderstorms heading our way.

While the rest of the team were breakfasting, I went to the bank (on foot) only to get drenched when the heavens opened.

Upon my return, it had cleared and looked promising for our morning excursion to Mdina (4th visit for Russ and Sue).

Arriving to Mdina, in the sunshine, first stop Rabat for coffee.

Fine specimen of motorcycling on the streets of Rabat.

Sue and Wendy exploring the residential areas.

After refreshment, sitting in the sunshine and stripping off some clothing layers, we made our way through the town of Rabat towards Mdina.

We came across some large villas with very large gardens (for Malta) in Rabat. (This one has a pool under the balcony).

Very lush garden (villa hidden) – this street is obviously one of wealth.

The thunder clouds , by this time, had rolled back in and the weather was looking decidedly ominous. However, we chose to go underground to the Mdina dungeons (Malta’s museum of crime and punishment). This is where the inquisitors meted our punishment to the heretics.

This sign explains this era of Maltese history, where horrific torture was undertaken by the inquisitors from the 1500’s until Napoleon Bonaparte put a stop to it 2000 years later.

Shaming masks locked on to offenders as a form of torture.

Another torture process – hanging upside down.

Suspended Iron maiden where the heretics were imprisoned. (Until death)

Stretching on spiked rollers and there were many more re-inactments of torture processes – even more gruesome than shown here. This is enough to share for one day!

By the time we surfaced, the storm was in full force, so after a quick look in the glass shops, we sheltered in a cafe for a bite to eat.

As the weather did not seem to be easing, we made a dash to the exit with one last shop for Wendy near the gate.

Russ and I were waiting outside (the shop) and a poor horse (with cart and driver) looked very miserable. I said to the driver “even your horse looks cold”. He scowled at me (thinking I had said “hot” – HOT horses are a sore point with these guys, as a horse dropped dead from the heat over summer and they are trying to ban this activity)

These horse and carts are a tourist operation. The man then snapped at me “are you hot?”, which was silly question, as I was obviously cold! I said “no, I’m cold” – he then told me “you are talking from your arse!” (Two times). Very rude and nasty, and the scowl continued!

Time to make a run for the car and head home for the afternoon to get out of the rain!

AND Go the All Blacks!

Glorious Gozo

Early start this morning to head north and spend the day in Gozo with our visitors.

On the ferry, car safely tucked in the hold.

Off on Gozo and straight into Victoria, to browse before everything closed at midday.

We secured a car park near the Citadel for a mere €1.75 (for as long as we liked)

Wandered around Victoria for about an hour – the street markets and my favourite charity shop!

St George church with some action – maybe the Christmas bunting is going up!

A visit to the craft village for Wendy to do a spot of shopping.

Not for sale but I found a display of all the original glass bottles used in Malta islands, before the introduction of cans and plastic.

Then off to Xlendi Bay for lunch…

Still, glassy and very hot! Certainly wished we had brought the togs!

A delicious lunch (albeit leisurely as about an hours wait). But what a fabulous place to wait!

A Morris Cowley sunning it in Xlendi.

One more planned stop – the basilica in the middle of nowhere on the cliffs overlooking Xlendi – Ta Pinu, Roman Catholic Church dedicated to the blessed virgin of Ta Pinu. Connected to miraculous healings in its history.

The bridge to the church

The mosaic walls encompassing the courtyard

Four of these walls, each with several parts dedicated to towns of Gozo and depicting nativity scenes (and other religious happenings).

Inside the basilica – equally ornate and sculpted. With very few people, this visit was very peaceful and relaxing.

The afternoon was getting on and we decided to head back to cross on the ferry before dark.

Luckily, after a few roadworks diversions, we made the 4.15 ferry and were on the road in Malta by 5pm, just as the sun was setting.

Home by 6.30pm, not at all hungry and in need of a cool beer and shower.

Malta is still willing me to stay with this perfect weather!

Two kiwis plus two more wanderers

Russell’s friends from UK arrived today at midday, an ex Kiwi (also named Russell) and Wendy from Barbados.

This morning first thing we revisited Senglea.

Navy ships in port this morning on another beautiful day.

Russ perusing the harbour entrance.

We had woken our concert pianist friend Carmen, before our walk, and headed back to collect her for a coffee before making tracks to the airport.

Nice time catching up with our new friend!

After collecting the visitors and depositing the bags (and a couple of layers of their English clothes) the destination of choice, for the afternoon, was Valletta.

Off to the ferry (again) and up to the upper barakka gardens!

Sue, Wendy and Russ in front of the fountain.

Russell and Russ and the grand Master Valletta.

A stroll from top to bottom of Merchant street.

Past the grand masters palace and around the waterfront back to the ferry and home again.

Our visitors had an early start today and a quiet evening planned!

Ready for new adventures tomorrow!

And then there is One

Malta is willing me to stay, after an overnight thunderstorm (street and car wash) this morning dawned clear and sunny.

Russell and Kevin had a date with Bingo up North and I had a social day planned with friends and cousins.

No excuse to drive the car, I walked the 30 minutes to the ferry to take me to Valletta.

As soon as we rounded the point of Senglea, I could see it was going to be a busy time in Valletta. Four cruise ships in today!! One even had to moor on our side of the harbour.

Met with Charles at the Museum cafe for our morning coffee. We swapped holiday stories. Followed by a little wander around the city (by now shoulder to shoulder with the boat tours).

I headed back (on ferry again) to the Birgu side for my next social catch up with cousins.

A warm 23 degrees I am sitting in the shade waiting for their arrival

Very pleasant and peaceful after the madness of Valletta.

Ship Anchors at the entrance to the Birgu port soaking up the sun, while I sat in the tree shade.

Another coffee and another catch up and finally home (mid afternoon) for a quiet evening in.

The gamblers came home empty handed, so I guess that means we are not buying our seaside appartment!

We have more friends from England joining us for a four days tomorrow – so a few more adventure days before we leave Malta next Wednesday.

The real cost of living

For the kiwi wanderers, and the other 2.5 million visitors to Malta, who marvel at the cheap food, clothing and entry prices to tourist attractions, spare a thought for the half a million people living here who keep this Island afloat!

The minimum wage is €4.25 (NZ$7.19) per hour. For a 40 hour week €170 (NZ$280) or €800 (NZ$1353) per month.

The average hourly rate for hospitality workers (if they are experienced) is €5-6 per hour. (NZ$8-11)

Healthcare workers €6.09 per hour. (NZ$11.00)

Average Rental properties, and these are usually apartments (if you’re lucky you have a lift) range from €400 (1bed) to €1200 (3 bed) per month. This also can be much higher (2-3 times) if you have sea views, the up market areas and close to the beaches. Average 2-3 bedroom is around NZ$1500-2500 per month. And if you want a house with a back yard this is a different story!

To buy a good house or apartment (2-3 bedrooms) it is area dependent andi what we saw 4 years ago for around €120,000 are now selling for €4-500,000 – from NZ$200,000 to close to a million!

Public Transport is very efficient – ferries always on time, buses usually on time, options of taxis an Uber’s.

Also the transport card system is very easy to use and top up online. Transport is reasonably priced and if you are over 60 very cheap to travel the island on buses and ferries!

Petrol for cars is expensive – works out about NZ$2.50 per litre unleaded. Car insurance and licensing on a par with New Zealand. Car prices Similar, just models and makes vary.

Walking is the best option – as carparking is scarce and the roads are very congested!

Food, healthy food, is well priced, fruit and vegetables fresh and a great variety!

Beer and wine are the same price in supermarkets and when you are out! Beer about the same as NZ and wine averages NZ$6 per bottle. However when you go to a bar or restaurant you still only pay NZ$2-2.50 got a beer or wine! It makes eating out even better.

While Malta is a fantastic tourist venue for its 2.5 million visitors per year (and very valuable income for Malta), spare a thought for the people who live and work here.

If they do not smile, maybe they are tired (or they don’t get paid enough to smile). If you receive fantastic service always leave a tip (remember this may be worth more than their wages). Do your best to take care of the small and overcrowded environment (there are plenty of bins). And always be gracious and kind.

Last time I was here for an extended period, I came away feeling, while many of the Maltese people are not that rich in assets, they are very rich in life and family! And they have hearts of gold!

Friends and Family

Out the door and off to Bormla this morning.

On the way to the car (the park is different every day) we passed a neighbour with his garage open and he invited us in…

This beautiful old Maltese bus and behind two vintage English buses.

Inside and Russ off for a ride!!

Business and coffee completed and, as Russ’s back is a little tender again, home for a lie down before heading to Valletta to meet Evelyn (a cousin) before we leave.

The most beautiful day, sunshine and no wind.

The ice cream cyclist drumming up business with the hot people waiting for the ferry.

Sue back in shorts again and the water feature trickling away.

Boats moored on the inlet – this 50m cat in front of the old Bormla docks (yet to be restored and the next stage of the American University)

Over the grand harbour and up to the Upper barakka gardens…

I never get tired of this view! Up high, blue skies, blue seas, Valletta and boats!

A nice hour with Evelyn and back to collect the car and head north to Marcella’s for dinner with Lino, Steve and Jaclyn. Sitting on the deck, at her 4th floor apartment, looking at the sea.

Life for the wanderers just gets better and better!

Off the beaten track again!

Russ and Kev went to the hypogeum this morning (catacombs) and I went grocery shopping

And persused the local stores! Red shoes Jill!

Russ and I then took off in search of some untourist sights. This took us to Hal-ghaxaq – a town in the south!

Very old and small doorways!

Crooked doors! Looks like it is actually open.

The locals sunning themselves ignoring the wanderers!

This plaque on a wall dating back to 1681!

And the reason for the visit!

The shell house – the owner decorated his house with shells, starting in 1898 and completed in 1901. He then ran it as a bar and leading up to its completion, he was a seaman who collected the shells from all around the Mediterranean and the Arab coast.

We then headed to the Monte Cristo estate – which is a multifunctional centre, incorporating a vineyard and winemaking, reception centre and a children’s park.

The tree lined entrance to the Castille

Here a close up of the castle, a beautiful Italian building, however somewhat deserted at this time of the year.

The underground wine bars!

This place is run by the Italians and not always above board, so we are told! (By our cousins)

Russ observing the wineries from the balcony. This definitely felt like we were back in Rome.

The rest of our days adventure included visiting Cousins (who fed Russell again with rabbit stew) and cooking dinner for our family and new friends!

We are certainly enjoying the return to an Indian summer.

Rubbish in Malta

This is a story about waste in Malta (as we have observed) – when we arrived in September I was horrified about the rubbish on the streets of this beautiful island!

Malta has a resident population of half a million people (and island that is 27 km long and 14.5 km wide – 316 square km).

On top of the residents it has 2.5 million visitors (tourists) per year.

No wonder rubbish is a problem!

There are no waste disposal units in the kitchen and the rubbish is in a variety of bags that one puts out for collection each day!

Estimated organic rubbish is 57% of the overall waste – new collections have been just introduced! Bearing in mind most houses are apartments or properties with no gardens or back yards.

White bags – Monday’s, Wednesday’s and Friday’s – all organic (food) rubbish on the street for collection.

Green bags – general rubbish – Monday’s Thursday’s and Saturday’s.

Recycle (only cans and plastic bottles) Tuesday only!

Glass (wine, beer and jars) only the 1st Friday of every month…this is a bit of a problem and we need to find the bottle bins in between.

There are doggy bins for dog poo! A series of bins that divide the recycling and general rubbish in numerous places around the towns!

Malta is doing its best, but still people throw their trash into vacant lots, in the streets and from the boats! I hope that all residents, visitors and boat people will embrace the need to take care of this beautiful island!

The rains have cleaned the streets, however we are guessing that the trash is now in the sparkling Mediterranean, only to be washed up on the beaches with the changing currents!

We need to embrace the fact that humans can save or destroy this island paradise!

Night time in the Capital – daytime in the sunshine

My story continues with a bit more adventure last night.

We headed back into Valletta with Lesley in the evening – dark by 6pm!

Up in the lift, after another Ferry ride, looking back at Three Cities under light. Warm pleasant evening.

In the last eight years I have stayed in Malta four times and not once have I been to Valletta at night. This is a must do. It is a lot quieter and the buildings are subtlety lit up.

From the Barrakka gardens looking out to the harbour entrance, from which Lesley will soon be sailing.

The fountain in the gardens

Walking towards the outdoor theatre, which was once a beautiful building bombed in WWII

The outside remains of the original theatre still encase the new one.

St Johns Co-Cathedral under lights!

Last ferry leaving to take us to our side of the Harbour at 7.15pm, time to bid Lesley bon voyage and head home after a fantastic day.

This morning was relaxed! And a lunch was planned, with cousins, at Birgu waterfront. The day calm and sunny!

We walked the 20 minutes to the gate, by which time the sweater was discarded! (And this was downhill)

A great three hour catch up with these beautiful people!

Russ getting his history lesson from Lino

Marcella, Sue, Jacqueline and Steven (the rose!)

And the girls! The lunch was great too!

Time for the visitors to head north on their bikes…

Great day for a ride! Felt a little jealous as we were on shanks pony (feet), up hill this time!

Bormla, with the American University across the inlet, looking very lush!

And after all the rain, the fountains are all out in force. The Three Cities are very picturesque in November!

This time of the year in Malta is beautiful, still warm with lots of sunshine and green areas. But especially the peace of uncrowded spaces! It will be very sad to leave (but not for a wee while yet)

And then we were three

Three kiwis again – Lesley (one of Russell’s work colleagues – both now retired!) joins the kiwi adventurers in Malta.

Russ and Sue on the ferry to meet Lesley off her cruise ship!

And here she is….having a little chat to one of the locals on our way back to the ferry to start our days adventures, across the harbour to the three old cities (and car waiting)

First stop however was our favourite coffee place is Birgu! Lesley wanted to do everything that the ship people wouldn’t be doing! (So she can go back with new work stories)

First stop was Marsaxlokk – the street markets, and fishing village in the south!

The sea was lapping over the promenade, however the predicted rainy day no where in sight (several layers of clothing removed already)

Statue of kids and animals waiting for dad to get home from the sea with fish for tea!

New versus old – Mr Whippy with the cathedral and bell tower in the background.

Back in the car and the kiwi sightseeing trip continues – through Pretty Bay and the container transfer-station port.

Around the bottom of the Island past all the refugee camps and the airport – then under the Airport (tunnel) to the Blue Grotto on the west coast.

Too rough to take a Luzzu (Boat) ride into the caves – in fact they haven’t been able to get out for eight days, due to the storms we have had passing through!

The sea still a combination of aqua and deep blue, even in its turmoil!

After lunch, at this west coast location, we headed further up the coast and took a drive by past the water desalination plant.

Due to the lack of mountains and rivers, water is precious here in Malta and this plant draws from the sea, removes the salt, and pipes the water to the island towns and cities (my cousins tell me for the south! They are North girls)

Next stop the Dingli Cliffs

Lesley, suffering more from vertigo than I do, did not feel a need to get out of the car and was happy to share this part of the adventure by photograph!

Back inland, and a must see for any visitor to Malta, to Mdina, the silent city on the hill, with views to die for even in a cloudy day.

The countryside looking very lush and green!

A special treat – we witnessed a traffic jam with horses and carts and lots of loud (and we assume) abusive verbal exchange, until one driver finally gave in and backed up!

We are all now back at the Kiwi Fgura flat for coffee and internet deciding if the weather (which is threatening to finally rain) will allow us an evening exploring Valletta, before Lesley leaps back on her cruise ship and sails into the sunset.