The Art of Tiling

Many buildings in Porto are clad in tiles…amazing designs and colours…This morning we set off to walk the Dom Luis Bridge, Upper level (third time to this location) we started noting the tiled facades of the buildings, so the next few images are a snapshot of today’s observations…

Close up…

Of this building…

A rounded street corner in green…

Red and green side by side

Tiled (rather than cobbled) pavements…

Blue and white triangles…

Green, yellow and mosaics…

A bank of colourful apartments..

A stained glass and tiled bay window arrangement dating back to 1872…

Getting closer to the bridge, overcast day, good for walking…we stumbled upon a market!

Wandered around the stalls and it was morning tea time. I took my Portuguese Tart early today!

The Chapel of Santa Catarina, also known as the Chapel of Souls (Capela das Almas), is a chapel particularly noted for the blue  tiles on its exterior walls, built in the 1800’s…

Coffee and tart inhaled we headed for the famous walk across the Dom Luis bridge, top level where pedestrians share the space with the metro trains…

Looking east up the Duoro…

And back over the cable car line we took uphill yesterday…at this point my vertigo kicked in – I was 60 metres above the Duoro river, with only a hip height iron railing between me and the river .., every time I glanced down, it was with extreme control that my Portuguese tart and coffee did not come back up! But I was determined to cross this at least one way!

Looking south to the city of Vila Nova De Gaia, the Duoro river separates Porto (2nd largest city in Portugal) and Vila Nova de Gaia (3rd largest) combined they maybe a larger urban sprawl than Lisbon (number one on the size list according to population)

Looking west…this Iron railing my friend…

And off on the south side…to make our way down to the lower level to cross back over into Porto…

Down a very steep cobbled street…I spied a rooftop garden, with the gondola flying high…after my bridge emotions, I was not tempted to take a gondola ride…

And looking up, right off the top, a couple of painters were doing a bit of touch up work…held by a carabiner clip and a piece of rope tied to the railing! Again my stomach turned!

Catching our breath before crossing over the lower span…

From here we headed west…to the vintage tram and caught it all the way to the end of its line…Portugal has pretty much done away with trams in the city, with only three tourist routes remaining. We alighted in Cantareira…just before the headland and the Atlantic Ocean beaches…we walked through a beautiful cool, sparsely populated park…with water fountains,

Statues and ponds…

More statues framed with Pōhutukawa trees, yes our native NZ Christmas tree!!!

And out to the headland…lighthouse pier…

Just out side the entrance to the harbour is Sao Joao Baptista Fort…

These 16th-century stone walls hold the city’s history, having survived countless wars and rebellions. A great example of military architecture, meanwhile…

Seaside, the sounds and smells (seaweed) of the ocean!

And due to the overcast day, not a lot for the lifeguards, who were dotted every 100metres or so along the beach, to do!

We wandered along the foreshore until we found a beach cafe…

And relaxed here for a couple of hours, with lunch and a drink in hand, just soaking up the peace (mostly) A few tourists determined to get a tan, donning an array (not always attractive) range of bathing costumes, and lounging on the beach…none we saw actually ventured into the sea!

We decided to use another form of public transport for our journey back…the Bus!

We got to the bus stop with 10 minutes to spare, but it turned up immediately and we were off on another sightseeing journey through the city of Porto! It took an hour to get to our side of town…speeding like a race car where possible, through residential, commercial, tourist, and many areas we had not seen!

We called in to our local Superette to buy some bleach to try and minimise our smelly apartment..not sure it’s made much difference!

On the move again

Yesterday morning, was a clean up and zip up, ready to move accommodation day again, it was nice being in one place for three nights…I ordered an uber to the train station around 10.30am… I have to say the Portuguese people are so nice and friendly…after a few unsavoury experiences in Spain …. The hospitality here leaves Spain for dead!

Waiting for my taxi…first time I had noticed the bright yellow tiled house across the street!

Uber came and dropped me to the train station. Again with very helpful station attendants, I managed to get my luggage into a storage locker at the station (didn’t realise this process would be so complicated dealing with a machine not a human) and wait for Kevs (my brother) arrival!

He also stowed his bag and we went in search of our apartment for the next five days! Yes as promised close to the train station…but we couldn’t check in until 3pm…so we decided(after a coffee and beer) to walk towards the Dom Luis bridge and cross over to the Southside!

We took the high road, which was very scenic (don’t you think?)

Spied this building in the distance, for all the Grahams out there (we thought of Uncle Graham with the spelling!)

Kevin showcasing the Dom Luis bridge from above!. We got into the crowds at the upper level, which was blocked off by gates and a bunch of police! I was sure the day before I had seen people on that top level! A nice policeman explained to me that the festival was ongoing (Sunday) and due to a plane show was closed to humans for the day…but would be back to normal today!

So we climbed down 500 steps to get to the bottom…the closer we got the more congested (humans) it got…and loud banging music….all rather hectic!

We made an executive decision to escape the turmoil and take the cable car back to the top and find a quieter place for lunch (to fill in the time before we could check into our flat for the next five days…

View from the window of the cable car going up! Back at the bridge…

And up the Duoro river..we will give it another try today to get across to the south side!

And down on the roofs and gardens of the cliffside Portuguese homes..

We found a pleasant cafe and had a cool drink and a pizza…noting the well fed seagulls hanging around…they are the size of a small dog and not at all phased by humans.,

The planes were zooming around overhead all afternoon, managed to capture this one from our cafe.. By now the temperatures had risen to 29 degrees and we booked an uber to go back and collect our luggage and check out our accommodation..

Another high class Portuguese estate…dogs and kids (just like home!)

The flat has two bedrooms upstairs with air conditioning in each room – nice! Downstairs…a terrible stench prevails…bad plumbing…smells like the sewers of Portugal were greeting us on our arrival!! Kevin performed all his quick fix plumbing tricks, which reduced the pain, but it still prevails…so today we will buy some bleach and pour down all the plug holes!

We then found a supermarket and stocked up on supplies and tried to get the internet up and running … two hours later … as it was waving in and out, even with Kevin’s expertise, we gave up and embarked on our evening drinks and dinner!

No day in Portugal is complete without the Portuguese tarts…I will quickly be regathering the pounds I left on the Camino at this rate!

Kiwi Footprints in Porto

As the people in the flat above me were tromping around like a herd of elephants last night, I consequently didn’t get to sleep until 11pm….The upside of this was I slept in until 7am!!

Tried to book a river cruise and winners day for when my brother arrive to join me but wouldn’t accept my cc! So my mission this morning was to walk to their office and book!

I was nearly there, when Kevin (my brother) messaged to say he had booked… so I carried on to my next destination- the Porto pilgrims office to check out the Portuguese way for next year.,,

I stumbled on the Porto city hall which is a Neoclassical granite building with a prominent clock tower and it serves as the administrative centre of Porto, built in the early 1900s

Interesting wall art here…kind of scary!

And no city is complete without a resident McDonald’s! No I did not go in!

Wanderings took me past this Monument to Dom Pedro IV, which is located in the vibrant Praça da Liberdade in Porto, Portugal, and evidently is a significant historical landmark. Standing at an elevation of approximately 136 metres, this impressive equestrian bronze statue honors Dom Pedro IV, a pivotal figure in Portuguese history known for establishing the constitutional monarchy.

I then neared the pilgrims office…down this alleyway…

They were most unhelpful and not forthcoming with any information or maps on the Portuguese way….. they just told me to look on the internet! So..I left…and climbed up again to…

The Porto Cathedral (Se Do Porto) – this in where all the routes of the Camino Portuguese start in Porto – there are several starting from here…so will have to explore the web as I want the coastal route!

Statues around the Porto cathedral…this one looking north from the cathedral..

This one on the main square in front of the church…

And bringing the old and new together, like any large city these days, cranes also regularly feature on the architectural landscape!

View looking west from the high square over the city..,

And back to the Sé do Porto Cathedral, one of the oldest monuments in the city, dating back to the 12th century, when Porto was one of the main bulwarks of the reconquest and the reorganization of Portuguese territory. It features characteristics of Romanesque Art of French influence…..then it was down to the river Douro…

About 500 narrow cobbled steps… and needing a bathroom after my morning coffees (no option for a bush wee – NO bush)

A feature of Portuguese home is the tiled exteriors of their buildings, not so easy to capture from the narrow streets below..

Upon reaching the river – I dived into the first cafe I found, to use the toilet, and ordered the most expensive latte to date €4.50! (NZ$9.00)

Sitting at my cafe viewpoint looking at the Dom Luis Bridge (one of six crossing the River in Porto) it is the largest (double decker) bridge that spans the river Duoro between the cities of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia (the south side) At its construction, its 172 metres (564 ft) span was the longest of its type in the world. Not sure if that means it still is?

After my coffee, I decided to keep walking… for some reason 10000 steps is just not enough these days! Along the river towards the Atlantic Ocean!

There is a big festival this weekend up to the 23rd celebrations and a lot of the roads and waterfront were closed off …walking ok… but police everywhere stopping traffic…

A clear view to the Southside and a great walking day … only up to 26 degrees (Celsius)

The Ponte de Arriba (bridge) completed in 1963, is the last one before the ocean, and spans 890 metres… evidently there is a bridge climb on this one you can do, I think I will give it a miss due to my vertigo in high places! I would have to climb with my eyes shut and that probably wouldn’t be a safe option!

Tour boats..motoring up and down the river…that’s something I could do!

Around about now, I needed another bathroom stop..,it was a vicious circle, but a drink, use the loo…then an hour later you need to do the same thing!!! I must say in these parts of Europe, public toilets are very noticeable by their absence!!

That done..,I carried on west…go west they said towards the ocean!

Local fishing boat replaced commercial tourist boats and seagulls replaced pigeons! Nice feeling as the breeze off the ocean was cooling as well!

Less people, less vehicles, a few pilgrims…I was on the Camino trail again..felt like home!

Through a carnival opening up for the day…I really wanted to have a go! If I had my gran babies with me no one would have blinked an eyelid… but an older lady.. hmmm .. one of the police may have checked to see if all was well!

Statues…this one is “The Messenger Angel” standing proudly looking out to the breakwater…that opens up to the ocean … she is said to bring good hope to the city of Porto.

And just as I needed another loo stop (the cycle continued) a cafe appeared looking out to the ocean! Very nice friendly people here in Portugal.. so I had my Portuguese tart this time, with a very small coffee…as I was a fair way from my flat, it was time to be cautious!!!

But wait stopping right in front of me was a historic tram, heading back up the river (nit going as far as it normally does due to road closures but getting me closer to home!

So, here I was sitting in the tram…resting my feet before being dropped at the bottom of a good climb back up!

The view from the tram, not riverside…but very air conditioned with all widows wide open to let the sea breeze circulate!

I then had a 30 minute walk back…having only travelled 12 kms on foot…. A mere stroll … it’s Saturday night here and the city roads were jammed with police patrols on every corner, as all the residents head towards the river for the afternoon/evening festivities! Whatever they may be.. still struggling with crowds…after my wilderness days over the last month!

Just hanging out with the locals in my gated Portuguese community house!!!

Can’t stop walking..

Woke up early today…as clocks back an hour.., enjoyed my Nescafé gold at leisure!

A little after 9, I wandered out in the direction of the strip mall I had seen yesterday…in search of a hairdresser mainly… most shops just starting to open…so I kept wandering..

Lo and behold..,a market… that was a good time waster…jewellery, bags and clothes, none of which I fell in love with! So I kept going…

Not sure what this building is…nice green waterfall statue..and obviously a point of interest as there were groups of walking tours…too early in the morning to get mixed up in that!

Now this was more interesting… The casa Escondida and the Igreja dos Carmelitas…

The 3-storey house  Casa Escondida  (“Hidden House”) was, according to legend, built so that the two churches would not share a common wall and to prevent any relations between the nuns of Igreja dos Carmelitas and the monks of Igreja do Carmo.

The other theory is that it filled a gap between the two churches (more feasible!)

The house served as a residence for chaplains and it also housed the artists who worked on the interior and exterior decoration of the churches as well as doctors serving at the Igreja do Carmo’s hospital.

Various secret meetings took place at the house during the French invasion of Portugal by Napoleon and the Siege of Porto in 1832-1833.

The Igreja do Carmo was built between 1756and 1768 for the Carmelita nuns order. It had an azure tiled exterior wall added in 1912.

Tried to get this picture of the tiles…the coke van wasn’t moving…a bit of old versus new Porto!

I then walked back into the shopping area and the beauty bar I’d spied was now open…haircut first! Had 30 mins to fill in so…what goes a gal do?

Coffee latte (yes they know what that is here) and a Portuguese tart for breakfast! At first I thought he had given me pepper to put on the tart! I told myself – maybe this is what the Portuguese do…had a smell test…aah it was cinnamon…made much more sense and tasted good too!

I then spent the next two hours at the beauty bar…well after 6 weeks of no personal maintenance, it was a big job! First hair, then eyebrows, then feet(as best they could) then manicure! I almost feel like a girl again!!

A quick stop at a pharmacy for a little makeup and recycled boutique..came out with a pair of white jeans…a size smaller than I usually take…they may not fit for long if I keep eating Portuguese tarts!!

The streets sporting house trees!!!

I dropped my purchases back to the flat and had to keep walking…off in the other direction to a monument I had been spying from various points…

Skirting the roadworks at every corner…

This monument in the middle of a circular park with a roundabout on the outside is called Rotunda de Boavista and eight roads run off the roundabout like a giant star!

The monument commemorates the victory of the Portuguese and the British against the French troops that invaded Portugal during the Peninsular war (1807–1814). It was built in the early 1900’s, the Lion on top symbolises joint Portuguese and British victory, bringing down the French imperial eagle. Around the base are sculptures of soldiers and civilians, the latter representing the 4000 people who died trying to escape Napoleon ( while crossing a bridge that collapsed)

Ok enough of the history lesson! (For me too) .. I took one of the right roads that I thought led to the Douro river, which runs through the middle of Porto..got a bit hot and I was thirsty so put my current residence in google and headed that way…

Lots of little parks with monuments..this guys chipping away!

Up hill…and there was a cafe…drink of choice for a hot afternoon!! Nothing like a coke out of a “glass” bottle!

Holed up again this evening…my mind and body having a much needed rest (even though I only walked 7.5kms today!)

New Town New Adventures

Santiago de Compostela Spain to Porto Portugal – 192kms

A cruisy morning in Santiago …. No rush to walk anywhere, coffee (actually 2) in the secret garden of my hotel..

Lugged my suitcase down three flights of stairs, and went for one last walk around the beautiful city of Santiago…ran into another Camino friend (Mindy) hitting home base…and took a taxi to the bus station at midday.

For my three and a half hour ride to Porto in Portugal.. Ran into another friend off the trail (Jean-Pierre) who I hadn’t seen for three weeks at the bus station…it never ends!

The bus was pretty full, double decker and I had a seat upstairs near the back…

The driver drove this bus like a TGV (fast train) on the highways and my motion sickness started to kick in..so what do you do? Yes I slept for 2 hours!

As I came into Porto, it was a bit overcast and a lot cooler than north west Spain..and I gained an extra hour in my day..I am now 11 hours behind NZ time…

Arriving in the very busy terminal a taxi driver asked me if I wanted taxi, I said yes…I knew this wouldn’t end well and I should have made my way out and booked an uber! But by this time, in a new city and late afternoon I just wanted to get to my accommodation and settle in!

For the first time in 36 days I am in one place for three nights…

15 minute taxi ride and €41 (Nz$80) … yes I was ripped off! I checked on uber and I would have cost be €6 (NZ$12)

Oh well, I was here!

Through a steel door on the street, into a courtyard of small Portuguese houses (flats) with locals and a few other rented ones…think a bit of a social housing complex!

The up side… I am ground floor, have a fridge couch and even found an English TV channel!

Safe enough for my three nights..

That’s the entrance!

I googled the closest supermarket as I did not want to eat out again!… this took me through a cobbled street with lots of shops and cafes nearby…, which I will explore today…and laden with two very heavy bags (about 2kms walk) I trucked back to my abode!

Put a couple of beers in the freezer, found the tv channel (a cycling race) and made my own dinner for the first time in 6 weeks!

Back to my old habits! A couple of beers, dinner in front of the TV and fell asleep on the couch about 8.30pm!!!

Had a good sleep, but was awake at 5am(which was 6am) yesterday… this time zone thing doesn’t mean my body clock changes!!

Now to begin the Porto adventure!

It’s been a blast

Today was a rest day in Santiago, my last day in Spain this time round and first “Official” rest day in 35!

It was needed as last night I met several Camino buddies at a bar, that didn’t serve food…and rolled into my hotel around 1am this morning…so today was a much needed recovery day, in more ways than one!

The morning started with a trip to the laundromat…to wash everything I have… I was there early so had the place to myself!

While I was there I got a message from my friend Hipatia (from Ecuador) to say she was arriving at the cathedral…

After saying Hi to her and a couple of others who arrived at the same time…I wandered back to my hotel as I had to check out by midday! And move to another place on the other side of town!

This was a job for a taxi…all of €5 and money well spent as it was the first time in 35 days I have had to move my bag(part of trip deal included bag transfer to next hotel)

Top floor (3) no lift and the room with only a ceiling window – there is a fan, but could be in for a hot night!

I then wandered down the street and found lunch and a coke!! No beer day today!

Today was a nice hot clear day…and the Roman architecture dotting the skies in the historic town…where I now am!

The cathedral spires rising above all else and visible from many sides of town!

Then it was nap time…went out cold for a couple of hours…

More than a week ago I had bought postcards and Spanish stamps…so I only had today to deal with these…

Wandered the streets, found a terrace bar, another coke and wrote these at leisure!

But now I had to find a post box…so headed in the direction google showed me and ran into Hipatia again and an Australian lady.

Cards posted, we then went back to the Plaza..as Hipatia wanted to take some more photos!

A little in the shade…

And rear view … check out the sock line… I’m sure that will disappear now that the Birks (Birkenstock sandals) are back in action! My toes were so happy today!

And a little artistic licence! She is a character with her tripod …. Felt like a model on a photo shoot. Many years on from my foray into a short lived modelling career!

Anyway enough of that…the walking stomach was once again getting hungry and it was almost 7pm when the cafes reopened for dinner! We both wanted a hamburger…we are over the three course (limited) pilgrims dinners we’ve been scoffing for the last five weeks

I am now back …. Sitting in the cool hotel secret garden writing this story…before climbing more stairs to my attic sleep out for the night …. And prepare myself for a bus ride to Porto (Portugal) tomorrow…

Today has been a reflective, regroupimg day, as the muscle (and late night) fatigue set in… still managed to rack up 7.5kms today!

Another personal maintenance activity is added to my Porto list…haircut, podiatrist and now a massage!!!

I will miss all my new Camino friends, the yarns, the google translate conversations, the laughs and the hugs! especially the Hugs!

All good things must come to an end!

Pedrouzo to Santiago de Compostela- Day 34 – 20 kms

One more day of throwing on the shoes, one more day of pole walking, one more day of meeting my Camino family along the way…and it’s been one of the best days!!!

Left at 6am and the troopers were out already…in the dark with phone lights and headlamps…I did neither, just tracked a headlamp guy through the dark forests until the sky lightened!

Gasping for my first coffee…6-7 kms in and the cafe was just opening – I was the first there and best coffee on the trail a far – San Pao… here I ran into my Korean Camino mate “Moon”

And got my only stamp for h the day at this little church…

With a shortish day … I trucked on, having already ascended the biggest hill … not to say there weren’t more but I think I am finally Camino fit! Just as it’s ending!

The day was very grey…overcast, or I was in the clouds! But a few forest walks and everyone with a purpose to reach the Compostela! The road was busy at times but I was well before the crowds…and some great peaceful times!

The eagle has almost landed!

Roses this area coming to an end…but gasping to bloom as Summer hits …the day was still grey…

Another village, another church… I had saved the last spot on my passport for the Compostela stamp…so no stopping here…

A studious wall art…actually sunglasses didn’t make an appearance today until later this arvo!

My shoes on their last journey … the Camino marker and tread bare Salomon’s!!! The cause of my latest round of blisters…

Tall trees keep hanging round …. Reaching for the sunshine! Out of luck today!

The shrines and memorials along the way…this one with a jeep addition!

And the boot…symbolises the pilgrims…the boots just keep on walking…as we have for 34 days!

Getting close to Santiago…and tent city set up for the campers…still a few kms out…

Reality hits, from country to city in one overbridge…followed by pavement pounding…the final straw for my Salomon’s and feet!!!

Still the pilgrims follow the path to the Compostela…

And the city arrives… A nice Japanese man taking everyone’s photo!…

Finally into the old city and through the tunnel, bagpiped in ….to

Compostela de Santiago! Made it team!

My Camino friend Mark, who arrived yesterday was waiting for me and several of my Camino buddies who had also just arrived today around 11am!!!

I met with an Australian lady for the first time today, who has been on the same path as me for the last five weeks…and we went off to get our certificate (Compostela)

Donation shrine!…where one unloads what they no longer need…

And these guys, Adrienne (Australian lady) and I went to the pilgrims shelter and donated our poles and I threw out my shoes!! They said they might check how good they are…I just said don’t get too close, they stink!! The young chap said “oh yeah!”

We took a midday beer and here are my final stamp book and compostela certificate …now some serious eating after seeing these legs in print!!!

I checked into my hotel – room with a view and balcony! Took a shower, flooded the bathroom, and went in search of a post office as it seems I have had something delivered here! As it turns out…my friend Trudi sent me some peanut slabs (my favourite chocolate) after google translations at the post office, it appears they have been stopped by Spanish customs and the rigmarole to get these cleared might be worth more than my cravings! I thank you for the thought!!…I’ll have to wait until I get home to savour these again! Some Spaniard will eat them and know how good “Whittaker’s” chocolate is!!

I then found my friend Steve (from England) …,

Pic from a few towns back…we had a drink and a couple of “special” coffees and now back for some R&R in room before catching up with whoever is in town!!!! Pilgrim Party??? Maybe!

Dreaming of my next adventure!

Arzua to Pedrouzo- Day 33 – 19kms

Last night after another meal, I retired to my room on the Main Street of Arzua, closed the windows, cranked up the aircon and rock n rolled all night, every time a truck went past my room shook (felt like a mini earthquake)

I was up and ready to leave by 6am…foregoing breakfast and the picnic (which wasn’t offered here)…

The trail is busy, so no problem finding my way in the early morning dusk…,

The sunrise, after reaching the top of the first climb was again special to catch…I skipped past the first cafe and carried on about 5 kms before my coffee stop!

The penultimate day, some are racing to finish, many are nursing injuries, I have a new blister (yay) as the soles of my shoes have worn flat! And it is a gentle (?) reminder that the feet have done it hard!

For me; it has been a bittersweet day, not sure how I feel about this journey ending tomorrow…I will miss the Camino yarns…the waves and smiles….and maybe even the walking! My feet will be happy though, I’ve promised them a makeover! My body might be bikini ready, but my feet are certainly not beach ready!

The journey continued ….another coffee stop and over motorway bridges…

Decorated with stuff the pilgrims are off loading…this one will be off loading….but not until Santiago….

The sky was still moody, overcast with the sun peeping through from time to time…a great day for walking!

Then back into forest walking, serenaded by random bagpipes! Busking in the forest…that’s a new take on street busking!

And, here, recycling at its best, Dan and I can build our fences with our beer bottle recycling!

This narrow stone bridge tripped up a bunch of Italian cyclists (on electric bikes) – they got off and wheeled them over…Sunday cyclists?

Then it was a gentle uphill and downhill through tiny villages…yes today again was rolling hills…that seems to have been the norm for the last few days.

Forests and farmland…

With business as usual for the locals…pilgrims get out of the way! This is their (locals) way, we are just visitors!

Water fountains…

Dr Seuss trees….

And homes hidden behind a facade of flora!

I took it slowly, looked after the new blisters, sat on deserted benches and soaked up the sights and sounds of north west Spain…

Into Padrouzo…through the town and up a hill to my deserted hostel! Which I couldn’t check into …so sat in the garden under a tree, listening to a very distressed cow mooing loudly for half an hour! She was kind of annoying …. I couldn’t see what the problem was, she had food and shade!

And to add to the excitement- the street is in total roadworks mode…dusty and rough! Diggers and drills! Exciting part of town..

I have showered and set up my (small) space and wandered back into town for a beer and late lunch…early night, early start…on the final road to Compostela Santiago.

Who would have thought that 19km walk is an easy walk?

The weather gods were kind

Palas de Rei to Arzua – Day 32 – 29kms!

Yesterday afternoon, there was a bush fire just outside Palas de Rei…was watching closely in case it disrupted today’s walking…all reports said it was under control late afternoon…then in the evening the heavens opened up with thunderstorms and torrential rain for a couple of hours! So that would have dampened things off!

So this morning I left in the dark at 6am, with my picnic from the hotel…discarded the banana but loaded the rest of the bag into my pack! As it was overcast there was not much twilight…but I cottoned on (discretely of course) to a couple of well prepared headlamp walkers…of course after clearing town…we were in forest going up hill. Nothing like the early morning uphill to get the body awake (actually I can think of more pleasant ways!)

Due to the clouds, it was kind of moody…like me at this time…not sure my legs would manage a close to 30km day at this point in the adventure!

But the sky lightened after my climb and the temperature was a mere 19 degrees…not saying I was cool and I had already stripped off to T Shirt only fairly early on in the piece!

The sun peeked out for a bit this morning ..then clouds rolled in and kept us cool! Again the pilgrims were ahead of the Sunday walkers!

There are so many villages on the way now that I won’t mention all their names…but walking through most of them takes no longer than as n 5 minutes…the first coffee stop was, putting it nicely, cheap and cheerful…I didn’t even finish this one!

The next few kms were up hill, downhill, over bridges….it was definitely a pole day!

Lifestyle blocks with big yards, wishing wells and even the odd pool!

Coming into Melide…a bigger town around 10am and the halfway point on today’s walk, I was really ready for a real coffee…

Ran into my Kiwi friend Caro(who walks really fast) who is also travelling solo…but we just pass on the day as she roars past fast!

The river below was clear and reflective…still coolish despite the constant climbing of rolling hills..

Taxi signs on every corner…to tempt those who want to take a transport day…

After I navigated town to the old part and had in sight the way out, I stopped at a bar and had my first real coffee of the day! Legs still feeling pretty good at this stage, and overcast, lower temperatures, made me feel I could walk the whole day!

Leaving town (another Up!) I reached the church and graveyard at the top of the hill…another 15 kms to go! Up, down, Up, down.., rinse and repeat…

This guy came running from the other side of the paddock to pose for his picture..

Water wells, usually with slimy green water…

The odd rock balance beam to test the faint hearted!

Sooo…Homer Simpson has done this walk…someone obviously found him important enough to paint a mural of him….

The track today was, in most part, shaded with tall forests and cloudy skies…about 6kms out of Melide …

And over a few more hills, I came to the village of Boente…where my friend Jean had landed from her taxi ride…the place was dead and there were no cafes… I dragged out my picnic sandwiches, which went straight in the bin….had some water and headed off around midday…for the last 8-9kms

A few long straight ones, but still mainly up and down…

Fields and villages in the distance

Rather large immaculately groomed properties..

More little bridges at the bottom of the downs!

Then spying the village of Arzúa at the top of the next hill…I was quite pleased as my feet were ready to escape! But it was further than it looked of course…up a very steep concreted road…

Past the garden geese…then a couple of kilometres of gentle strait incline until I reached the business end of town…ie: cafes and hotels and hostels…

High on a hill…one good thing is tomorrow’s walk will start with a down!! Rather thirsty and hungry, I stopped at a cafe near my hotel,

Took a beer and Lasagne…around 2pm…before checking in…showered and a little nap…now hungry again…off to search for an early dinner before crashing for the night…

The countdown begins

Portomarín to Palas de Rei – Day 31 – 24.89 kms

After yesterdays heat and today predicted to be the same, I arranged a picnic to collect at 6am and left my hotel (in the dark) By the time I was through the other side of town the sky was lightening and lots of pilgrims (the real ones and a few familiar faces) were all leaving town early to beat the heat and the Sunday walkers!

The first hour was all uphill…but at the top through the clouds hanging low…the sky was starting to colour up!!!

At this point, marched (yep marched) across the top catching some great views of the hills and the low lying clouds!

A bit of regional road walking, but at this time mostly off road and tracks lined by trees!!! A few up and downs until I came across my first coffee of the day about 2 hours in 7.5kms! Gasping for coffee as you can imagine! Here I ran into my Camino friend, Mark from yesterday…who after his huge day yesterday had had a late start…we left together (he was again going another 8 kms than me) but on the track I was on until my destination!

The sun came up!!! The temperatures started rising by 9am and I was happy I had 10kms under my belt!

These structures are prevalent in this Galician area of Spain…they were used to store grain (keep it dry) in the olden days – 9th century – called horreos!

The clouds were still lying low…as we trucked on with coffee and water and coke stops as needed!

Today on the hills there were often Forrest paths providing much needed shade as the temperatures soared towards 34 degrees! A chance of rain was predicted (which never came) so not to be caught out my poncho came along for the ride! (Hipatia and Jean – no repeat of the rubbish bag day was needed)

Mark and I passed through numerous villages – this one housed a carver….Smokey the bear! And many other objects (including his letterbox) I certainly have a few take home ideas and projects!

This vista on one of the ridges (a pano for Chuck) the photo does not do it justice!

This little church was a must see and stamp your Camino passport – there was a blind man …dressed as a knight, who would have stamped anything you put out…he was going to stamp my hand but I directed his hand to the passport!

And here I saw my first sheep!!! So far it’s only been cows…. But other farming, as we head west, is starting to pop up!

The forests are a bit of a contest of who can grow tallest – in my family that’s George!!!

Through another village…and these girls were under cover munching their lunch! No wonder they are huge – no paddock exercise and lots of hay!

Of course a day is not complete without a pilgrim statue…

Or a Km check…this one was back a bit we are now in the 60’s (my birth decade!)

Up another hill …every time you went down you knew you were going to be going up! That was the day!

Here in front of this church, in the shade, was a stone wall to have a foot break and eat my picnic lunch!!!

This statue is really weird…a man on her back???

Today, we had mostly avoided the short day walkers, apart from the odd bunch of kids that caught us up, the designer gym gear, some drone activity(really) and sunburnt white legs, we had a realatively normal (our pace) walking day….although dripping wet on arrival in my town…Mark took transport to his town and I dived into my hotel for a cool shower and clothes wash…having to clean up the sunblock malfunction in my suitcase ..which was not closed properly this morning (well it was 5.30am) and spread itself through all my toiletries!

Now a beer in the town of Palas de Rey and early start tomorrow again for another hot day and 29kms!!! We will see how that goes!

Three more days!!!!