They follow the sun – like me

Tournesols, the French name for sunflowers – the countryside around this region has fields of them and their French name has a whole new meaning as the follow the sun all day…

It was an early night for me 10pm as the sun went down…and up at 6am to get my work behind me for the day. Planned activity was a bike ride in the other direction to the next town which hosts a large street market every Thursday! We ventured off around 10am (boys on electric – me on manual) down through the steep decent to the bottom of Fumel town. A few speed wobbles as cars and trucks went zooming past me on a road barely wide enough for two Minis to pass! We then cycled on an arterial route (now mainly flat) to the next town…arriving to a buzzing marketplace, with aromas of cheese, bread and fish…

The Place, which fingered out in all directions along all the side streets. Similar merchandise to the street market in Birgu (Malta) that I haven’t made it to yet…..except for the food, fresh fruit and vegetable (from the region), butchers and huge blocks of cheeeses.

Temperatures rising and ready for a sit down and drink, the one cafe on the square was overflowing inside and out!

Enormous pans of hot food cooking away and being dished up in takeaway containers! Last thing, three hot, kiwi,Australian, Maltese humans felt like! So it was on the bike, riding on the shady side back towards our town. All went well (on the flat) until the vertical climb….which entailed a 25 minute uphill push! By this time nothing in Fumel open (all gone home for their afternoon siesta) We three garaged the bikes and walked down to the Brit hotel where we could finally get our coffee!

Out on the terrace, an ice cold beer first, followed by a smorgasbord salad lunch and finally my long awaited coffee

Doing a little car insurance follow up, we finished our lunch by the pool

Looking very inviting and wandered back (up) to our abodes for an afternoon Siesta!

Past the church, very easy to fall into this way of life.. like the Tournesols , following the sun, or in some cases (humans) the shade!

Rental car Roaming

We found a rental car for $200 for 8 days, as the Citroen has gone to the (panel beater) doctors to await the insurance assessor! While I was working this morning – Kevin rode off to commercial area to collect the ride for the next week. Rols washed the Citroen so it looks pristine for its assessment and they both took it away! We caught up for a home lunch around midday and then it was off driving in the “Dasio Jogger” a version of people mover! Heading towards Cahors, the destination for the end of stage 19 of the Tour De France on Friday!

First village stop Puy L’Eveque, another village on the hillside, Lot river running through.

Beautiful old stone buildings

And Rainbow umbrellas adding a touch of colour in the streets below.

First stop was Emaus – the weekly market, Rols favourite, where I managed to spend 11 Euros and a whole new wardrobe! Rols bought a pot for his bathroom.

Following the river through to Cahors – a larger town, more tourists and very little parking, gasping for a drink, temperatures rising to 35 degrees (but much cooler than the last few days), we found a park near the river (still the Lot).

Medieval lock bridge (Pont Valentre) constructed between 1308 and 1378, a bit like modern day construction timeframes!

Whilst wandering along we spied a boat approaching to navigate the lock- took a while, while water is let out this side and then filled up from the other side to allow the boat to pass through!

In she goes, by this time we had found a seat on the hill, ordered coffees and sat and relaxed while watching the prolonged process.

As we were leaving I felt a sting in my armpit and sure enough a wasp had managed to get under my sleeve and done its dirty work – must have been attracted to my crock, deodorant or sweat! Whichever it was rather painful for a bit!

We then drove through the bustling town of Cahors and took the south side route heading back. Already the barriers are going up on the roads for the finish of stage 19 of the Tour De France.

Heading out we realised we were driving the incoming route for the riders and we need to decide our vantage point for Friday!

This could be it – top of the hill at Albi linking over the river and it’s small township – precariously perched on the cliff side!

Back through the villages and a supermarket stop, as I decided it was time for French bread, pate and cheese followed by some French pastries! I have done very well – four days without the French Treats!

The village of Fumel

Last night it cooled down enough to go for a walk to the castle du Fumel – around 8pm, it doesn’t get dark until 10pm!

In through the gates..

The village with the church spire!

Stone archways

Wildflower gardens (Lexi that’s what we are making)

The view from the terrace overlooking the river

Yours truly enjoying the (warm) breeze

Making the most of the lesser heat closer to 30 than 40 we wandered around the upper town

Looking back up at the castle on the hill! One cool beer and we were off to our respective beds around 11pm. After a chat with the local ladies sitting outside talking away with Kev and Rols (in French) and me just grinning like a Cheshire Cat and nodding!

This morning I did a few hours work and being cooler we opted for a team ride along the riverside to the next town – Kev and Rols on their fabulous electric folding bikes, and me on the non electric one they brought down from Paris! It was down hill through the town and along the riverside mostly flat

No electric needed – we rode for a couple of hours until the sun started peeping through around 11am – temperature rising – then it was a kilometre up hill – boys cruised on up (electric kicking in) and I walked and pushed my bike! Very warm and damp after reaching the garage!

We had a plan for the afternoon – dump rubbish, lunch on the air con and hit the St Vincent de Paul charity shop (only open on Tuesday and Saturday afternoons). The best laid plans….this time thwarted by a road marking machine (on the way to the dump) who suddenly reversed into the car while we were stationary waiting to turn left!

The ledge that Kevin is sitting on is the one that crashed into the front of the beautiful Citroen crushing the lower bumper and rearranging the inside motor bits – bonnet no longer closing! It all happened so fast nothing we could do – the driver of the 3 tonne machine did admit fault but now it’s a waiting game for insurance action! The car still goes but not too far!

I am guessing we will (or at least I will) be getting very fit riding my non electric bike up and down the hills! Or having a lovely rest reading my books – it will be heat dependent!

Stairway to Heaven?

It seems plumbing (toilet) issues in Malta see me coming. When I was here with mum seven years ago, we had leaks and other nasty things going on with the toilet in the old house and had to enlist the locals assistance,

Friday evening – I thought I could hear a radio on all night, only to realise it was a persistent water drip when I went to clean my teeth on Saturday morning! We had drained the roof tank dry and had no water in showers, toilets, handbasins etc! With Kevin’s direction (from France) George got Higher!

Roof top of the fifth story, to turn off the pump! Quite a good view up here he said!’

Meanwhile the planned date to the Irish pub, to cheer on the All Blacks, was put on hold while we waited for the emergency plumber. Who, true to his Italian word, duly arrived at half time (we had found a cable channel which was playing the game live) . Husband and wife team, very capable, sorted the problem which turned out to be lime in the filter blocking the up and down thing in the toilet cistern!

Water sorted, thank goodness, and cable TV looping on a Dynamo advertisement, so no second half, George and I finally headed out for a late breakfast/lunch….

Was worth the wait! Hunger pangs fed, we went back to the apartment for me to pack for my side trip the next morning leaving at 6am!

Late afternoon dip in the harbour at Senglea, a grocery shop and movie time before an early night!

Alarm went off at 4.30 am and we were out of the house by 5, George driving, and dropped me to the Airtport, back home asleep before I had got through customs!

6am the Maltese airport was sooo busy, the line for coffee about 50 people long, so I decided to forgo that treat for now. The plane was full, heading to Toulouse and being Ryan Air – not a drink in sight for the next two hours! First leg over safe and sound, I proceeded to look for my bus to the train station. This was where it got tricky…ticket machine in French and no one (English speaking) around me I could ask for help. Oh well I pressed the buttons and out popped three pink tickets and I followed some others to a bus – whose driver was outside having a cig! Help! I said and he laughed…then proceeded with his colleague to tell me “this is very bad” pointing at my pink tickets! I must have looked very confused (or blank, now going into coffee withdrawal) as the driver then told me this was the right bus, to get on and gave the ride to me free,

Matabain train station. At least at the right place for my next journey with over an hour up my sleeve… the time (11am) and gasping for that coffee!

Oh I forgot to mention, hadn’t had a bathroom stop since leaving home – but daren’t wander too far from the board that would light up with the platform number only 10 minutes before departure time! I sat for a moment, tipped half my coffee over myself , drank the rest then plonked myself in front of the screen in readiness for the mad dash to the train!

And it was – found my seat (window) with 1 minute to spare and raced off west through the French countryside. Destination Agen, where Kevin and Rols were meeting me!

One stop-, and 1.5 hours later I set foot on solid ground completing the last part of my solo journey!

Thank goodness Kev and Rols had planned on lunch in Agen before the car ride home – had only had half a coffee all day and was both hungry and thirsty!

The town of Agen on a Sunday,

Lunch was followed by a 40 minute (air conditioned) car ride to Fumel – my base for the next 10 days….stopping halfway at village atop of a hill for views and a cold beer!

40 in the shade….

And a sleepy resident cat in the afternoon heat!

The square with a beer!

Back to the village of Fumel by 5ish, settled into my abode and drinks with Kevin and Rols- well mostly Sue and Kevin! Albeit a little dusty this morning (Monday) for the shopping chores! Great kids toys

Molded plastic click together slides and playhouses!

Hiding on my bed this afternoon languishing under a fan – tis 42degrees in the shade and hottest to hit at 5pm!

Welcome to heatwave French style!

When your having fun

Time flys! How easy it is to settle into a new life! Almost three weeks since I arrived in Malta – and I have fallen into a work, play, eat, and rest routine that fits in with this world! Tomorrow o leave for a side trip to France.

After a busy beach afternoon on Thursday, Friday, for me was a quiet, stay at home, finish book afternoon!

George went off with his cousin, exploring more coastlines!

The evening was spent with family at Senglea waterfront cafe for dinner! looking out at the Grand Harbour! And the cruise ships leaving port for their next destination! Slowly slowly tourism is returning to this country – the day before I return from France, the final arrival restrictions are lifted! From the 25th July, one can enter Malta – unvaccinated, no vaccine passport, no proof of recovery certificate, no negative test – no masks! I think there are still infections here, but it’s so open air and outside in the sunshine – you just don’t hear about it.

George with all the girls! Claire looks like she is wearing boots (far too hot for boots) – the lights reflecting through the chairs!

Not too late by Maltese standards – home by midnight! Late night by my early to bed early to rise routine!

Friday was a bit of a catch up day! Work for me, trip planning for George!

A quick trip to St Thomas bay for coffee and a book (English) purchase from the charity shop! I will have no show of finding an English book in France!

The touch up (2 hour) for my Maltese ice cream nails – a little more vibrant than the kiwi version, but much more attention wa given to detail! This exercise was undertaken in a tiny 3×3 salon, two nail technicians, constant stream of customers, and a snoring big fluffy chowchow dog at our feet! Oh and I forgot to mention – great air conditioning – I left with goose bumps!

Today is Rugby day – off to the Irish pub for breakfast! C’mon boys!

It’s not all Rocks!

Yesterday was another blue sky day on this Rock of Malta – I worked, George gymed, then it was local for the late morning coffee! Tried another cafe and prompt service George was very happy!

We decided to head north to a sandy beach, where we could lie and read in comfort. Laden with supplies, water and beach umbrella (so we didn’t have to hire one) we took to the road in “Vivienne” (the little Subaru).

We headed towards Golden Bay, the tourist hotspot..but chose the beach just south of this, thinking it may be less crowded. Parking was certainly easier! Riviera Bay

There it was, way down there dotted with umbrellas and sun loungers (for hire of course)

‘‘Twas a long way down, lots of steps, no problem, a little anxious about the return journey but gasping for a swim, off we went and set up camp on a piece of sand! Sun blocked head to toe we spent the next couple of hours jumping in and out of the sea (even a little wave), reading and in Georges case enjoying the sights! Young fit people surrounded us!

Not too crowded at the far end (where all the sun loungers weren’t) and very hot golden sand. I could feel the back of my knees burning, even through the sunblock and George was getting hungry so we began the ascent! Oh dear, now I realised why Young fit bodies surrounded us! No shade on the way up, I suggested George go on ahead (mountain goat style) and I would get there when I could.

A few (actually several) stops, near the top I found a little bush (shade) and plonked myself (gasping) down ratting around in my bag for my water and looking calm to all passers by. I regained composure and tackled the last hurdle where George was waiting with car open and really to roll. The air conditioning was a welcome blast!

The road to home via “Rouge Cafe” and a two for one (much deserved) Pina Colada and a hamburger – my dinner, Georges afternoon snack!

One more little hiccup as we drove in, pressed the garage door remote, and the door didn’t go up. The battery must have died! Another in the apartment thank goodness so we could tuck the car safely away for the night!

Showers and book reading for the evening was all we (Me actually) could muster.

The Heat is on again

Yesterday was a big work day, George found a gym and had his first experience of Malta driving! However in the afternoon when the roads are quiet!

We decided around 2pm to get to the sea, and took off, me navigating and George driving….I got us lost on the way to marsaxlokk – and the infamous St Peter’s Pool swimming hole! We drove on to the lesser know Little Peter’s Pool without the crowds!! Not smaller and much less populated..

Still a climb down and a climb up – the rocks rather unforgiving to lie on but the water fabulous!

George diving off the rocks – I jumped off the ladder, mindful that the Maltese bikini may not survive the higher impact!

The last few days have produced a breeze and there was even a slight wave rolling in!

We spent a couple of hours sitting on the rocks and jumping in the sea…until George got hungry! The climb out was not so pleasant.

Back down to Marsaxlokk, the fishing village for a cool drink and an early dinner – table by the waterfront. I had a cool beer (not driving) and George a sparkling water. The meals took an hour to arrive and George was almost eating his arm! Then when they did, the flys came in swarms. My bowl of mussels was eaten at a frantic pace of arm waving and eating as fast as I could before the invasion beat me to it! George had a similar experience with his pasta! Although I must say they definitely preferred the mussels! Note to self do not eat seafood by the sea in a fishing village!

We were certainly ready to leave! My navigating skills a little better on the way home!

It was in the shower to wash the salt off, out of which emerged a very pink George, he had another (more peaceful) dinner of salad and chicken and we both crashed fairly early. Me not so much and I sat on the deck in the cool, listening to the fireworks and watching our town light up!

The Paola Church lit like a Christmas tree.

Today was a day out of the sun (in light of Georges pinkness) a drive to collect my new ID card – I’m officially a senior citizen! And a coffee and lunch (long wait again for George) at Senglea – NO flys!!

Weekend family time

Up early on a Sunday morning and off to the car boot market!

The sun was rising and the morning heating up! George demolished his first meal of the day and on the (quiet) roads by 7am!

A lot of dusty merchandise – overpriced for foreigners….but a couple of books to read the only purchase! Both needing a coffee hit we ended up on the Birgu waterfront (in the shade of the church….as the marina came alive!

A great day for boating – most days are! Down in the area we then cruised across to the other side where I have another little gardening job in Kevin’s absence! Their friend is in England and we are keeping her plants alive!

We had a lunch date with the cousins at a little after 12 so headed home for George to have his 2nd breakfast, bring in washing and I did a couple of hours work.

Heading north around midday for lunch at Attard with Cousins Sam and Anna and Rebecca! A delicious meal of Spaghetti bolognese and it rained! The first rain I have seen in two weeks! But not for long and by 3pm when we all headed further north to visit Rebecca’s new home it was moisture free! Her penthouse in Mellieha is high on a hill with panoramic views over farmland and out to sea!

A cool beer while Rebecca unpacked some treasures….the sun shining once again

The gals and….

The boys!

Around 6.30pm George and GPSed it back to Paola as George had managed to sink about 5 large Cisks (beers) over the afternoon and was feeling the jet lag creeping in!

He is devouring his forth meal of the day and I can now have a quiet beer now my driving duties are done for the day! Although nothing is quiet, as fireworks bang away in our neighbourhood! They were going when we left and cranking up again for the evening!

Sun Day

It’s been a busy couple of days! First of all, in Malta never believe what they tell you if you have blonde hair!

Before I arrived, my brother booked an appointment at the identity office for me to renew my passport – having been told they are very busy and you must make an appointment, The earliest one available was 27th July! My cousin needed to renew hers also, she rang the office and was advised the opening hours to call in with the paperwork. (Which I had ready). So last Friday (8th July) we went together around midday, a few hiccups, we were number 65 & 66 and when we sat down they were only up to 40. Then the internet went down, and amidst the turmoil of very angry Maltese and govt staff trying to rebook a time for them next week, most of them left! Us Bonnici’s decided to wait until 2pm (office closing time) and see if the technology problem was resolved! Our patience rewarded and when the internet was restored at 1-45pm we were only 6th in line! Done and dusted by 2pm – I was told to make an appointment to collect in august(none available before then) – my cousin was told it would be ready next week, So she made a family appointment to collect together in a couple of weeks before the end of July! It really does depend on the colour of your hair and accent!

That was Friday! And George was winging his way from Houston Texas via Istanbul! Due to arrive around 7.30pm! However his plane was an hour and a half late leaving Texas which meant he only had one minute to catch his Maltese flight in Istanbul! As it turned out that wasn’t the problem, as his first flight made up 20 minutes and second one delayed 30 minutes! The reason he spent a night in Istanbul was the check in person had issued his Malta flight boarding pass for the wrong day – beware fellow travellers, to check your forward boarding passes are the same as the flights you are booked on!

My trip to the airport was now on Saturday morning in the middle of the allblacks/Irish test! Which I now caught only the beginning and end of on TV at the apartment!

After a much needed shower, we went for a walk to the shops (george needed a phone card and lunch!) Then a supermarket stock up and home for an early afternoon nap (for both of us)

3pm wake up call…

The front deck cooling off and George getting a view that none of us see!

Unanimous decision- beach time! Bit of a wave rolling in at my favourite rock spot so we joined all the weekend local beach goers on the sheltered side.

George rocking his new American swim shorts! As if he needed more to stand out in the Maltese crowd! As couple of dips and a few rays – and the worms (hunger pains) were biting again!

A late snack (for George) a cool beer at the Irish pub (where I didn’t make it for the game snd breakfast earlier in the day) and my HAT! Retrieved after its week holiday at the pub!

Home around 6 and I made a salad for dinner, we watched a movie, I crashed at around 9.30 and my roommate not long after!

Nailed it!

Soooo….I can drive in the south! Got to where I was going all day!

Up with the birds (actually no birds except pigeons) to get work out of the way by 10am! It was then in the car (rather hesitant after yesterday’s misadventures) But back to my familiar hood, found a park and on foot to catch the ferry to Valletta.

Kottonera (Senglea, Bormla and Vittoriosa) in the late morning sunshine!

The love cafe – just realised I captured a random man having his morning coffee!

Off I Trotted to where the ferry leaves, sweating my way along only to realise – more construction and the temporary dock is on the other side (from where I had just come) another sweaty walk and over the harbour to Valletta! There was a young Italian girl on the ferry who kept asking the workers how to get to Golden Bay and all they kept saying was take a bus. She had just arrived from a small Island off Naples and was quite lost. So Mumma Sue kicked in and I asked her if she would like me to take her to the bus station! She is only here for 5 days alone and staying at bed and breakfast in Bormla. She wants to come to Malta and improve her English and of course can work with EU passport! Lovely girl (George) but may be nearly gone when you get here!!!

Had about 20 mins before I met up with Charles, where we had a coffee and good catch up at upper Barrakka garden kiosk! Then it was off to the museum cafe for a bite to eat… I finally relented and had Ricotta cheese pastizzi… I love them but they are very fattening!

We walked to the top of Valletta and one of the side streets was advertising the jellyfish (which are supposedly prevalent in the Mediterranean at this time)

Selfie with Charles – his idea not mine! Not being overly fond of close up’s these days!

I returned to Senglea on the ferry and into a very hot car to again attempt the drive to yesterday’s unreached destination- St Thomas Bay! No hiccups – found the park – one left…spread myself on rocks (yoga Mat for comfort) and strait into the sea! As I dried off on my mat soaking up some vitamin D (sunshine) a few Maltese men arrived and sat very close on the wall ledge – a little uncomfortable but soon realised they are locals (old like me) and probably go there every day!

I love this swimming hole. I think it will be my go to, and as Kevin has left his goggles in the beach bag I could actually have a decent swim!

Around 3pm I headed for home – again nailed it without getting lost. Hosed off my beach(yoga) Mat and myself on the deck! The beauty of being in a penthouse with a concrete wall around the deck – stripped off and put my bikini and mat to dry. Then opened a nice cool beer….it is close to five!